1968 series 2a restoration

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Series 2a Mark

Series 2a Mark

Active Member
Posts
138
Location
Scotland
Hi everyone, I'm new to series ownership and have had some great help/advice in the last two weeks on the forum in the series engines forum. She was a non runner and requires a half chassis and front dumb iron work as well as the usual bulkhead common repairs. I'm going to undertake a restoration of sorts. I've got her running well and got clutch working etc, making good progress for a couple of weeks considering she's stood still for over 6years or so. I plan to service engine this week and get everything working before starting on chassis in the next couple of weeks.
One of my queries was what to do about the axles. When I inspected the axle with wheel off I noticed the bleed nipple on one of the rear brakes was broken off as is a couple of studs per wheel. so my plan is to strip axles off when I come to do chassis in a couple of weeks and I was wondering what extent to strip things back to? If the studs are broken do I need to replace the stub axles on back and would it be best starting again with the brakes If bleed nipples are issuing/siezed etc? New to all this so just wondering what would be the best way to go. Not wanting concourse restoration but presentable and useable for weekends etc. Also plan to fully clean back the externals of the axles and undercoat and paint everything with a recommended paint to protect with new springs on the front and rear. Cheers for any help. Mark
 
Last edited:
If i remember you can replace wheel studs no problem
You can get steel or alloy brake cylinder, i personally think steel is better option in the long run of you maintain them
 
That's great news about the wheel studs, thanks. Regarding the brake cylinders il do that and replace as I'm renewing shoes all around anyway so at least il know everything's changed apart from the drums that aren't that bad.
 
Theres 2 sizes of wheel studs, I don't know what year the changeover was but smaller type of nut is fluted at both ends, the larger type is flatter and fluted on just one end as in all series 3's and 90/110 etc.
 
Thanks for the link it's the ones that are fluted one end and square off the other. Il get a full set of them and change them all over to new in the next couple of weeks when doing the axles. I'm currently hunting for my break light switch? Break
Lights aren't working and want to short it out to see of it's the switch that's the problem, where would I find it? Cheers, mark
 
If its got a servo the switch is on the pedal box, if no servo then its most likely under the dash above the pedal. The PDWA switch is just a warning light and not connected to the light circuit.
 
Is it the location of the switch you're after? On a Series 3, with no servo, it's at the Brake Pedal so have a look around there.....

49649413581_92db58bfaf_z.jpg
 
Thanks for that. I have a manual but still trying to get my head around each aspect. Drained my oil tonight and fitted new rocker cover gasket. New filter tomorrow and fill with oil and finish off servicing. Thanks again
 
Series 2a Mark said:
Thanks for that. I have a manual but still trying to get my head around each aspect. Drained my oil tonight and fitted new rocker cover gasket. New filter tomorrow and fill with oil and finish off servicing. Thanks again
Click to expand...
If you haven't got a parts book get one as well, it gives you exploded diagrams of just about every nut and bolt.
 
Thanks for the help, I found the switch, it was the pressure switch type on the valve block where the brakes split to the rear and fronts. I actually found it when I was lying underneath loosening the oil filter housing. Gave the connections a clean and I now have break lights! Kermit_rr was spot on with it being a pressure switch and not a pedal operated type. Thanks for the help.
 
What's a pressure operated brake light switch?
I think you are talking about the PDWA switch which is something different.
 
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