Series 2a 2.25 petrol struggling to start

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Forget that guys, left her running for a half hour there and went out and gave the pedd a few good forceful presses and it started working! Just brakes to bleed tomorrow evening and I'll have stopping power too. Won't drive her too far incase the back half of chassis falls off right enough! Appreciate everyone's help. It's been invaluable!
 
Went out with good intentions to bleed brakes tonight but my spider didn't fit wheel nuts, found out after it's a 27mm socket and bar I need. Changed bulbs tonight to test and make sure everything was working and it all was apart from brake lights and reverse lights. Is there any first port of calls I should check like brake light switch or reverse switches? Am I supposed to close this thread and start else where for general questions? Cheers again. Mark
 
You've done well!
Do you remember how in post #11 I asked you if you knew how to set up static timing?

I once had to fit a new timing belt to a Cortina IV in the field with no meters or electric stuff. So i had to use this old skool technique.

To get the number one cylinder on the compression stroke, test by taking its spark plug out then putting your thumb over the spark plug hole. Turn the engine until pressure builds up. It will stop buildling up when it is near TDC. Then check the timing mark. Turn the crank till it is dead on, Not on TDC but on static advance.
Then take the dizzy cap off, check the rotor arm is pointing to the correct spot for no 1 spark plug lead, and loosen the lock nut/bolt for the dizzy. then switch the ignition on and turn the dizzy very slowly in the opposite direction to the way the rotor turns. When it is right the spark will pop, you'll hear it and see it if there is enough shade. Lock the dizzy, cap back on, start her up.

It really should start and run. It may be too advanced in which case you'll get pinking on acceleration, but you can improve things by winding the tickover in or out until you get it to about 3000 revs, (loud with or without an exhaust) then loosen the lock nut on the dizzy, then turn it slowly back and forth until the tickover is as high as poss. Lock it up wind the tickover back down and then it shoudl be pretty good.
A strobe will make sure it is right but even then acceleration tests in a highish gear, or up a hill will be better to take account of wear in things like timing chains.
Have lots of fun. whatever happens nothing will be as difficult as living with a D2 and ists blasted electrickery!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
You've done well!
Do you remember how in post #11 I asked you if you knew how to set up static timing?

I once had to fit a new timing belt to a Cortina IV in the field with no meters or electric stuff. So i had to use this old skool technique.

To get the number one cylinder on the compression stroke, test by taking its spark plug out then putting your thumb over the spark plug hole. Turn the engine until pressure builds up. It will stop buildling up when it is near TDC. Then check the timing mark. Turn the crank till it is dead on, Not on TDC but on static advance.
Then take the dizzy cap off, check the rotor arm is pointing to the correct spot for no 1 spark plug lead, and loosen the lock nut/bolt for the dizzy. then switch the ignition on and turn the dizzy very slowly in the opposite direction to the way the rotor turns. When it is right the spark will pop, you'll hear it and see it if there is enough shade. Lock the dizzy, cap back on, start her up.

It really should start and run. It may be too advanced in which case you'll get pinking on acceleration, but you can improve things by winding the tickover in or out until you get it to about 3000 revs, (loud with or without an exhaust) then loosen the lock nut on the dizzy, then turn it slowly back and forth until the tickover is as high as poss. Lock it up wind the tickover back down and then it shoudl be pretty good.
A strobe will make sure it is right but even then acceleration tests in a highish gear, or up a hill will be better to take account of wear in things like timing chains.
Have lots of fun. whatever happens nothing will be as difficult as living with a D2 and ists blasted electrickery!
Click to expand...
3000 revs? Are you having a laugh?
 
That is a great description, and I'm sure il need the advice in future again as I go on enjoying my
Series owner ship, we have a d4 and I'm frightened to
Touch anything as I'd do more damage so when I finally got the series I was really
Keen to get stuck in a get learning. I'm going to service the engine this week in the evenings, parts arrive tomorrow and I can crack on. I can't believe how quiet she is for a 52 yr old engine.
 
Can anyone confirm the clear lens lights on back are
Reverse lights on a 1968 series2a as I have a fog light togle on dash but no fog light (possibly fell off over the years) , but didn't think fog
Lights would be clear to
The rear obviously. Thanks
 
kermit_rr said:
3000 revs? Are you having a laugh?
Click to expand...
Maybe, or whatever peak torque is in a series 2a engine! This is normal for most petrol engines. You can of course do this more quietly but this way gets you there quicker! Works for a B series engine!
Or can't a Series engine rev that fast? (Dunno, never owned one!):):):)
 
Series 2a Mark said:
That is a great description, and I'm sure il need the advice in future again as I go on enjoying my
Series owner ship, we have a d4 and I'm frightened to
Touch anything as I'd do more damage so when I finally got the series I was really
Keen to get stuck in a get learning. I'm going to service the engine this week in the evenings, parts arrive tomorrow and I can crack on. I can't believe how quiet she is for a 52 yr old engine.
Click to expand...
The reason she is quiet is because she has low compression so she can tickover much slower. This is also why you will be able to start her with a starting handle. My ex son-in-law did this for ages when he had a starting problem. (Flat battery due to the way he "wired in" a horn, think cellotape instead of insulating tape or a proper connector!)

Glad you liked the description, old skool rules!:):):)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Maybe, or whatever peak torque is in a series 2a engine! This is normal for most petrol engines. You can of course do this more quietly but this way gets you there quicker! Works for a B series engine!
Or can't a Series engine rev that fast? (Dunno, never owned one!):):):)
Click to expand...
I think max revs when new was around 4000 rpm, doubt I've ever had mine anywhere near that
 
kermit_rr said:
I think max revs when new was around 4000 rpm, doubt I've ever had mine anywhere near that
Click to expand...
In that case read 2500. At the end of the day the idea is to get all the centrifugal advance in, so anywhere on or above that would probably do. As I said, this is a general guide for old skool ignition, the specifics of the engine can be worked into it. If I had a strobe with me I would never have needed to do it.
As the Cortina was on a campsite, I just had to let the girl cope with the pinking until she got it home then i got my strobe and set it dead right, but the B series was so worn I took it on a run I always use to test my cars and did it by the side of the road out in the sticks, by ear.

Also I genuflect before the age of the engine and the fact it hasn't been run for a while and needs a service.:):):):):)
 
Last edited:
Stanleysteamer said:
The reason she is quiet is because she has low compression so she can tickover much slower. This is also why you will be able to start her with a starting handle. My ex son-in-law did this for ages when he had a starting problem. (Flat battery due to the way he "wired in" a horn, think cellotape instead of insulating tape or a proper connector!)

Glad you liked the description, old skool rules!:):):)
Click to expand...
Low compression, long stroke, low revs :)
An engine should start on the first or second turn of the handle, if it does then you know the engine is in good shape!
 
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
Thanks :) . Looking forward to working on her and getting her back into a usable condition. Back half of chassis is so rotten that the spring hangers corroded off all together and springs are against chassis rail etc. I will get there!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

haza88
Please help cylinder head and block identification
Replies
4
Views
842
haza88
haza88
A
Engine cutting out 2.25 petrol
Replies
3
Views
1K
Tony Monsantoe
Tony Monsantoe
akosmo1
Series 2.25 petrol Thick black smoke
Replies
3
Views
899
Anaconda
A
styleruk
2.25 petrol rough idle
2 3 4
Replies
60
Views
2K
styleruk
styleruk
J
Series 2a cutting out on incline
Replies
18
Views
896
tottot
tottot
Back
Top