Series 2a 2.25 petrol struggling to start

wireman · Mar 7, 2020

Series 2a Mark said:
Sounds like my new hobby will be keeping me busy then. I can only get short slots the odd evening and at weekends having two toddlers and running a buisness, it's all go. But I recon il have a lot more faults to sort before getting onto the chassis refurb etc, really appreciate everyone's contributions and taking the time to reply and answer my queries, even when they are beginners questions ! Really enjoying it so far, it has only been a week and half haha.

Yes, welcome to the madhouse!

Series 2a Mark · Mar 7, 2020

Yeah I suppose you could spend a stupid amount of time nit picking faults. For vehicles that are decades old I think they do pretty well! I bought a voltmeter/tester today so will check solenoid this evening. Will I put ignition on before checking both sides /befre and after solenoid to see if I get 12v? Cheers

Series 2a Mark · Mar 7, 2020

I would say it wasn't quite 90deg, about 45 or less, Which made it confusing! Can't understand why it would have been like that.

Gord Wedman · Mar 8, 2020

A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts.
A battery reading only 12 volts is more or less dead and may not be able to turn over your engine. You kind of need two people to do some of the investigation, one to turn the key to the start position and one to take measurements at the solenoid. You might just loosen, wiggle and re--tighten all the connections first in case some corrosion has developed.

Series 2a Mark · Mar 8, 2020

Had a wiggle around with the cables on the solenoid and also took the battery tray earth off as it looked a bit iffy! Cleaned it up and she started first time! Easy quick fix so that was great. I've bled the clutch through until no more bubbles and all the old fluid was through and running clear, I've still to bleed the brakes when I get the jack out but the clutch was giving a fair amount of resistance when I pressed down. So I started engine and tried it but although it went into reverse and first no problem, when I brought my foot up nothing happened? Do I need to adjust anything else? I followed the manual for bleeding. Cheers, mark

kermit_rr · Mar 8, 2020

Is the red lever all the way forward and fully engaged?

Series 2a Mark · Mar 8, 2020

Now when I've started and try to go into gear it just starts to crunch as if clutch is not disengaged

kermit_rr · Mar 8, 2020

Series 2a Mark said:
Now when I've started and try to go into gear it just starts to crunch as if clutch is not disengaged

Does it go into 3rd or 4th? There's only synchro on those gears. If the revs are too high you'll struggle with lower gears or reverse

Series 2a Mark · Mar 8, 2020

Yeah I knew about the synchro in 1st and 2nd but never tried 3rd or 4th, do you think maybe engine is idling with too many revs ?

kermit_rr · Mar 8, 2020

Revs can be quite low on a 2.25 petrol it should sound nice and quiet and relaxed yet still even. If it's too low then you can stall it if you open the throttle

Series 2a Mark · Mar 8, 2020

Cheers, il have a look at the revs later and adjust, I was so surprised how quiet the engine was. I have no exhaust apart from first pipe from manifold so it's pretty loud at moment, that's coming this week.

Henry_b · Mar 8, 2020

Colthebrummie said:
The usual pattern for landrovers is, you fix a fault then find another, you fix that and then find another and so on until either you die or you sell it.

Col

Former i'd hazard

Series 2a Mark · Mar 8, 2020

Just had a go and I can only feel reverse, 1st and 2nd , just feel them touching/grinding so stopped, I couldn't feel 3rd or 4th at all,

Colthebrummie · Mar 8, 2020

Series 2a Mark said:
Just had a go and I can only feel reverse, 1st and 2nd , just feel them touching/grinding so stopped, I couldn't feel 3rd or 4th at all,

You might need to take the gear stick out and make sure the end hasn't worn away, if it ain't that the gearbox probably needs some tlc.

Col

Series 2a Mark · Mar 8, 2020

I don't think I worded my last message properly. I have all gears when engine is off. Can freely move through them all and can hear them slotting in, it's just now when I've bled clutch and tried them when engine was running I can get into any as the first 2 and revers just grind (I was gentle so not to do damage) and the 3rd and 4th I couldn't seem to select with engine running and clutch to the floor.

jamesmartin · Mar 8, 2020

clutch has rusted and stuck on by the sounds of i if clutch pedal feels ok

Series 2a Mark · Mar 8, 2020

Did I hear somewhere before that the heat from engine can free it of I leave engine running for a while? Any other tips ?

jamesmartin · Mar 8, 2020

drive it around with clutch pressed,or similar but with rear wheels both securely raised of the ground

Colthebrummie · Mar 8, 2020

jamesmartin said:
drive it around with clutch pressed,or similar but with rear wheels both securely raised of the ground

That'll take some doing.

Col

Series 2a Mark · Mar 8, 2020

So get back end onto axle stands and start it in 1st and wait until it frees off? Il park my old van directly against it incase we have a run away landy!

Series 2a 2.25 petrol struggling to start

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