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Here are the pictures of the Smiths gauge cluster internals. Each gauge has an internal earth connection that can corrode, so worth checking that these are clean and tight. If that doesn't fix the problem, it's likely the gauges have failed - these Smiths gauges are not as robust as the thermal...

First thing to check is that the back of the gauge cluster has a good earth connection. If that checks out ok then it's likely the gauges themselves have failed, but also worth checking in case the sender wire has shorted to earth somewhere. If you disconect the wire at the sender and the gauge...

Yes, it's a different gauge and doesn't need the stabiliser. The usual problem with these gauges is that they corrode internally and read high/max as soon as you connect the sender, but the same problem is sometimes down to bad earth on the gauge cluster. Are your gauges reading too high or too low?

I wouldn't be worried about the 2.6 engine, as long as it's in reasonable condition. I've had Series Landies with both the 2.25 and the 2.6 and the six-pot is a nice engine - smooth, makes a nicer noise, has a bit more low-end torque. It does like a drink, but not dramatically more than the...

I agree. I've had 34ICH carbs on both the Series Landies I owned and never had a problem with them. The original problem could well be down to the carb, though. A few thoughts: - float level may be too high (speck of dirt in the float valve?) - wrong jets fitted - jets loose I'd be surprised if...

The top cover screws are 601889 x 2 (short) and 601888 x 2 (long). They seem to be M6 thread, although a regular M6 screw is a loose fit (or maybe my carb is just worn!). The short screws are 23mm and the long ones are 38mm. If you can't find the exact part numbers, I think regular M6 hardware...

As standard, the 2.25 setup doesn't have a ballast resistor. You could add one if you have the necessary extra contact on the starter solenoid, but I doubt it's worth the hassle - the standard system works well enough most of the time...

The 34 ICH is quite easy to rebuild. The 1979 to 1991 Haynes manual covers this carb - here's one on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WEBER-CARBURETTORS-HAYNES-Repair-and-Service-Manual-1979-to-1991-classic-car/254880446224?hash=item3b580ef710:g:Lq8AAOSwnbxgOANM I've rebuilt two of these with...

On my spare engine (2.5 petrol), the spacer goes closest to the cover, then the adjuster bar, then the bolt. I measured the spacer at 9mm but a mm more or less won't make much difference. Nice, easy lathe job for a cold winter's day!

I like the R6 engine but it can be hard work to tune the twin carbs perfectly. Before you adjust the mixture, you need to balance the airflow between the two carbs, otherwise one may be doing most of the work and adjusting the other one will not have much effect. Some people can balance them by...

+1 on the electronic distributor. Replacement points and condensers can be poor quality and cause lots of problems. Originally, this engine would have had a Lucas 25D4 (model 40944A) but the later 45D4 and Ducellier should fit if you're not bothered about originality.

Land Rover call it a "separator, vapour" NRC9772 It appears to sit between the fuel filter and the carb, with the third pipe as a return to the tank. It is supposed to keep the fuel circulating to avoid vapour lock. I think it was fitted as standard with the 2.5 engine, but was missing from...

Not tried it myself, but there are threads on here where others report good things about this conversion. Looking for extra power with the LR engines is always a challenge. Making the engine breathe better (big-bore exhaust, gas-flowed manifold/head) should add power but probably only towards...

I'm in the process of building a 2.5 engine for my Ser 3 so have gone some way down this road already... I'd be surprised if just changing the carb makes a huge difference with the 2.25 motor. The 32/34 DMTL does breathe more freely than the 34ICH and that makes a difference with the 2.5 engine...

Yes, I'm sure that's true. The LR engine designers must have thought about starting under all kinds of conditions, including low temp, and the 2.25 engine is known as a reliable, long-lasting design. Normally, the pressure release valve would just dump any excess pressure back into the sump. But...

Just a thought: if the problem only occurs after the car has been standing for some time at -15C, the oil must be really thick and viscous under those conditions. I'm not sure what viscosity GTX is (maybe 20W50?). I'm impressed that a diesel Series Landy will start at all at -15C (must be a good...

Did you check the ring gap after you honed the cylinders? But even if you are losing a bit of compression, that should improve as the new rings bed in. On the carb side, a few suggestions: - possible partial blockage. I know you cleaned the carb, but these Webers have multiple fine drillings and...

Welcome! That is the cleanest Land Rover engine I've seen in a long time!:) The compression readings are a bit on the low side for a new engine (book values are 145 lbf/in for 7:1 and 160 lbf/in for 8:1) but the difference in wet/dry readings suggests the rings are still bedding in. I think TDC...

I'm rebuilding a 2.5 engine to replace the tired 2.25 in my 109 Series 3, so I will be facing some of these problems as well. The biggest issue seems to be adapting the throttle cable from the DMTL to work with the accelerator rod setup in the Series. Hopefully someone on the forum has done this...

Welcome to Series ownership! The green/yellow wire might be household earth wire, in which case it needs to be replaced - it's not rated to carry the high current needed to crank a cold engine. Safest option would be to check and replace all the heavy cables from battery to solenoid and starter...