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Paid for a clutch/DMF/clutch hydraulics to be fitted (£900 all in, including the devil). At 124K the DMF and hydraulics were pretty hoopajooped, even tho there was a bit of meat left on the friction plate. It now shifts gear like a dream.

it isnt unknown for everything on a Landy to fall apart FTFY ;)

How bad was this wobbling gearstick? Im assuming it must have been pretty freaking drastic for you to limp home.

Work the problem - when it won't run, what's missing? Gotta be fuel, air, spark, timing, exhaust, or compression. These intermittent no-starts can be annoying, but the only time to try to diagnose the problem is when they won't start. Might be a bear to diagnose without a scan tool though.

Specifically, lug nuts. Mine have chipped and corroded badly. I'm reluctant to get OEM ones since, well, these don't seem to have faired well. Any suggestions? I'm thinking of Gorilla lugs nuts since they make a 12mmx1.5. Advantage would also be they would ALL be locking nuts.

Just replaced the belts on my TD4 today and thought I'd pass on a few tips. 1: I only needed to take RH wheel and side cheek off. I didn't take the underbody panel off. 2: You'll need a 24mm combination wrench. A second big wrench so you can interlock them to make pulling on the tensioner...

Replaced the belts. Oh what a fun job!

P1602 is an immobiliser/even comms fault. If you have a known good key I'd give that a whirl.

Sounds like a dodgy ignition switch. EDIT: Just like GrumpyGel suggested.

I had a Stage One a while back (got totalled, long story). Man, those drum brakes make me pucker more than once!

Low voltage can cause all ECUs to behave weirdly.

Not sure what the OP wants us to say. It's a fail. It's not like we made the rules. I get it that it's frustrating but there you go.

Bad battery would be my first bet, but it could be parasitic draw.

Check the pollen filter. People overlook those, and it can look like a bird nest in there.

DMF = Dual Mass Flywheel. Under 100K would be premature for the clutch to go, but I suppose it's down to how it was driven. Mine's at 130K and while it will need a clutch overhaul at some point soon, apart from the occasional crappy clutch pedal feel, it's not that bad.

If the money light comes on, there should be a stored code.

An air leak wouldn't spike revs like that. What's the mileage? That fuel filter in the engine bay is the turbo solenoid vent filter. Only one end is connected.

With the screw out ones, if the Philips head is knackered then you can take your £500 Snap-on screwdriver, heat the end and press it into the plastic to "fix" it.

Second time around it does ;)

This tool makes removing glow plugs a lot easier. http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6035