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Brooklands still print a full parts catalogue for the D1 part number is: RTC9947CF It's got all revisions up to the final vins

G30 is OAT coolant with a variety of manufacturer approvals, concentrated version is dark pink, ready mixed is light pink G40 is OAT coolant G12++ approval for the vag mobiles G64 is OAT coolant, mostly carries truck approvals but also has approval for all volvo passenger cars 2018 on G48 is IAT...

Poor atomization and burn of fuel can make sludgey oil-seeming deposits in the exhaust (combination of wetness and soot) I'd get the injection pump checked as suggested earlier, as you've already changed everything else and the chinesey injectors should give you at least 5-10k miles without trouble

No way of knowing what is going on then - you wont really be able to feel an increase without fueling adjustment (as you started on stock / slightly more than already), if anything pushing the turbo outside of its efficiency range will probably cost power through needless pumping losses and...

Easiest mistake is not moving your boost gauges plumbing, post install as it needs to be upstream of the boost controller. What is the gauge reading at the moment? What was it reading before, after you initially shortened the arm? Is the fuelling set stock?

Do you have a link to the exact controller you bought, and is it plumbed correctly?

+1 for the wobble ended ones as well!

Don't worry about shortening the arm, shouldn't need to. Aye it will do away with the need to alter the actuator rod entirely, as you'll be changing the boost being metered to the actuator.

Poor compression (poor valve sealing / bad rings), worn injectors / pump, excessive blowby, blocked / gammy PCV valve (crankcase oil separator), worn / stretched timing belt etc You've checked off valve guides / seals passing oil it sounds like, and timing sounds like it is okay, (as long as...

With the arm too long, (i.e wastegate opens too quickly), you can use any manual boost controller / bleeder valve in order to increase the boost easily at the turn of the dial on the controller - they work best situated close to the turbo without too much capillary pipe. A bit of black smoke...

Comma's type XS semi synth 10w-40 is around £2.50 a litre if you buy it in the 20l tubs, still only around £2.80 in the 5l tubs as well, can be cheaper when on sale, far exceeds the ancient API CD spec

Most black boxes work off of telematics / GPS (and thus are standalone) rather than relying on OBD information to work out speed / braking etc. Probs easiest just to try a different company that uses standard tech

I use a solar panel on my spare car which only sees 50 / 100 miles every fortnight or so to keep it from going mouldy, pass on the low wattage solar chargers as they're rubbish - go for a 30watt panel minimum (40-50 quid) and spend 20-30 quid on a cheap solar controller to prevent overcharging...

Will scrapping it save any money? 500 quid isn't any great cost for a ticket - especially as it was such a cheap truck, and if you want to stay in the green oval mark sticking with a single one and slowly restoring the chassis / bodywork over a longer period is much better than buying another...

A full leak down test would show if you're leaking compression via rings, inlet / exhaust valve / mystery cracks etc - if you know a decent garage to do it and don't want to take the head off? Doesn't take much over an hour

If you're getting backfires on No.1 cylinder the inlet valve is leaking, possibly burnt / cracked Compounds the bad compression theory, if it misfires when wide open without the turbo connected but is okay with boost, it's probably down to a lack of compression - the dynamic compression ratio...

Someone was talking about this just the other day: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/mk-1-were-all-models-4wd.339199/page-2#post-4458418

Aye it doesn't rub, think there is a good 4-5mm between the belt at Pas / tensioner pulley so all's well

I vaguely remember mine being really tight, then it turned out you just push it in, in order for it to then pop out.. I think

I'd forgotten to upload the photos of what I did, here they are Not much to see really, I took the pulley to my helpful local engineer and he suggested just banding an ally strip onto the existing pulley, £30 and a bottle later and job was a goodun, followed by another few bottles as I...