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Just finished stripping the rear axle ,didnt realise that "mechanics" bolted rust back on, if it comes loose (2 x 6mm setscrews and 4 penny washers to hod on the rear disc guard. The pipework over the tank I cannot see but its not fastened to anything ,it just waves about.I wish I could take...

It will be difficult because 1 adjustment will change the other 3 , You are better with blocks, Wammers gives the hights in his EAS thing at the top of the page

Turned the car around and propped it up securely for round 2. So much crud,nobody ever hosed the underside. still better than sitting doing nothing.The only problem is that I keep forgetting how old I am and after 2 or 3 hours I can hardly move,thank god for painkillers. Keep safe everyone

You basically need 4 blocks to set the vehicle up level on a level surface.When you plug the Nanocom in, you can see values for each corner. Because you know that the vehicle is level, you need to enter the actual values shown into the spaces for each corner.and ok that. Thecar now knows what...

you dont need to undo the big nut anyway

Each to their own, i prefer to repair not replace where possible

why not new seals in your calipers ,about £3 each side I stuck mine in an electrolysis bath for 24 hrs, they came up like new and the pistons were unworn so I re sealed them

If the oil seals dont leak now, the alignment is correct. to maintain this "DO NOT TOUCH THE SPLIT HEX NUT AT THE BOTTOM PIN" This is what sets the alignment. if you dont move it, you have no need to reset the centre hight

To be honest,now you are so far in,you should really replace the ball joints then they will last for years.I have just bought another 2.5 with 12months MOT on it and it was a death trap the tester who passed it wants stringing up by his dangly bits. front pads 1mm caliper leaking flexis corroded...

Completed front end, everything clean painted ,new flexis,new caliper seals bleed nipples ,ball joints 1 side (dont ask) new dunlop air springs,all stainless bolts and screws ,new hub bolts carrier bolts and oil seals. just need to bleed the fronts in the morning and turn the bugger round for...

Its a shame you are not closer, I have just finished mine

no the washer is attached to the shaft

Cut the centres out of two brake disc dirt shields and welded in new centres. so now I have 4 decent ones.

I would have thought that if a "Land Rover Specialist" doesn`t know. Who would ?

Andtake the clip off the top (secured with an 8mm head setscrew, it rusts badly under there

stripped drivers side axle for new ball joints and put caliper and swivel end in electrolysis baths overnight and ball joints in freezer.

spent the afternoon fitting new seal kit to first caliper, what a pain. Old fingers are not as strong as they used to be. 2 hours on 1st seal 10 mins on second. only 3 more calipers to go. at least I have the time to take my time and sort all the bits out]

started the rebuild drivers side with New Dunlop air spring. Undid and repaired./replaced all the butchery. will need new sensors and airlines but it should last awhile when done.

There are no "wishbones". Which pieces can you not undo?

Struggled to remove screen wash tank, 3/8 bolts as tight as hell. need to locate a level gauge now,or strip the other car to get that one. but more rust cleaning and painting then I can rebuild 1st corner with airbag