P38A EAS calibration

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mrtayto

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first off thanks every one for all the help so far.
I've read through Wammers post in the Technical Section and searched the forum but can't seem to find what i'm looking for.I understand the need for the blocks or meassuring tape for calibration but dont fully understand how to use the nanocom and am looking for a step by step guide how to calibrate EAS,values to change etc.
If anyone has a link to a guide/youtube video i would appreciate it.
 
You basically need 4 blocks to set the vehicle up level on a level surface.When you plug the Nanocom in, you can see values for each corner. Because you know that the vehicle is level, you need to enter the actual values shown into the spaces for each corner.and ok that. Thecar now knows what the values should be when level at the given hight of the blocks ( I think that there are 3 sets of blocks). You simply repeat with the other sets of blocks. When you tell the car to raise to wading hight ,it knows the value because you have told it. it will then rise to the value that you set with the blocks. Sorry about being long winded.
 
I made a set of blocks up from wooden dowel. A broom handle would be about right!

I can't remember the exact heights, they are around on the web somewhere, but the rear two for any given ride height are slightly longer.

The steps are to set up your Nanocom so you're looking at the live data from the four height sensors on the car. Lower the car to its bump stops using the Nanocom.

Then you jack the car up as high as you can, put the extended ride height blocks in. They fit snugly into the rubber bump stops. Lower the car down on the jack until the car is resting hard on the blocks that you've inserted into the bump stops.

Using the Nanocom write down the value each corner height sensor is giving you. Jack up the car again and repeat the process for the normal, highway, and access ride heights.

Once you've got all that info, write the numbers you've obtained for each ride height into the EAS memory using your Nanocom.

I think it'd be the "Settings" page on the Nanocom you need. There'll be a page for each ride height, with four values for each. Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left, Rear Right.

Once you've entered them in, the car will always try to hit the values you've entered by forcing air in, or allowing air out of your suspension air bags.

It's pretty simple if you take it steady.
 
thanks guys.
was going to try it with measuring tape method.
Does the nanocom allow me to adjust the hight of each corner individually to get correct height for callibration?
once i have height correct on all 4 corners i change target height to what ever the actual height is.
repeat for all ride heights.
am i on the right track
 
You can adjust for each corner yes.

Problem is adjusting one will probably have an effect on the other 3.

I've never done the tape measure method. You could probably just add 5 to the number of one corner and then go around and measure them all and home in on your ideal settings that way. It'll take longer than the other way I'd have thought.
 
It will be difficult because 1 adjustment will change the other 3 , You are better with blocks, Wammers gives the hights in his EAS thing at the top of the page
 
mrtayto said:
thanks guys.
was going to try it with measuring tape method.
Does the nanocom allow me to adjust the hight of each corner individually to get correct height for callibration?
once i have height correct on all 4 corners i change target height to what ever the actual height is.
repeat for all ride heights.
am i on the right track
Click to expand...
You can adjust each corner individually, but adjusting any one corner will affect the other 3 using the measuring stick method, but it's easy enough and the way I always do it. Blocks are too much trouble.
ONLY adjust in very small steps a value of plus or minus 5 maximum for each adjustment.
You can only adjust each height setting within a small predetermined range, go beyond the allowed range and it will reset to default values and you will have to start again. Write down the current numbers for each corner and each height before you start so you can always go back to known values..
 
i'll give it a go with the measuring tape over weekend and if that doesn't work out for me i'll get some dowels.
Thanks all for the detailed replies think i have it stright in my head nowo_O
 
mrtayto said:
i'll give it a go with the measuring tape over weekend and if that doesn't work out for me i'll get some dowels.
Thanks all for the detailed replies think i have it stright in my head nowo_O
Click to expand...

As Keith says it is very easy to do if you go about it in a logical manner. Measure each corner at each height. Observe the readings for each corner and each height from Nanocom. Write everything down. As you start to adjust, as said, do it in small increments. Do not climb in and out of the car to measure then adjust do everything from outside. Car MUST be on level ground and tyres pressures MUST be correct. Only set the various heights to standard listed settings.Obviously all your sensors should be in good condition with linear readings. If not it will be a nightmare.
 
wammers said:
As Keith says it is very easy to do if you go about it in a logical manner. Measure each corner at each height. Observe the readings for each corner and each height from Nanocom. Write everything down. As you start to adjust, as said, do it in small increments. Do not climb in and out of the car to measure then adjust do everything from outside. Car MUST be on level ground and tyres pressures MUST be correct. Only set the various heights to standard listed settings.Obviously all your sensors should be in good condition with linear readings. If not it will be a nightmare.
Click to expand...

can the nanocom check condition of sensors or is it just a case of using meter to check it's output.
 
mrtayto said:
can the nanocom check condition of sensors or is it just a case of using meter to check it's output.
Click to expand...

No, you will have to connect a multimeter to them, carefully disconnect the arms and move them through their range. Readings must be linear with no jumps.
 
I take a photo with my phone of the target heights for each setting before I start. According to Wammers the default ranges are:

Extended. Front 120-180 Rear 105-150.
Standard. Front 95-150 Rear 85-130.
Low. Front 75-140 Rear 75-120.
Access. Front 50-110 Rear 50-100.

As a starter for 10 you could always go in the middle and see how it behaves for a bit, e.g.

Extended (high): front 150; rear 128.

I calibrated mine with a helper. Put it on extended, helper wedges axle stand in, puts appropriate block in the bump stop and when all 4 corners are done shouts "clear", lower the car to a lower height than testing, photo the live reading (quickly as it will still be venting) then back up to extended and repeat. You might have to wait for the air-tank to refill after a few goes. Cannot remember how we did extended, I might have temporarily added 5 to the original target heights or maybe the blocks squeeze in with a bit of a tap. Once done write in the new target heights from your photos and save. Very quick and easy. Nanocom manual is on the BBS website.

If the counts across each axle are more than 2 different then take the average across the axle and use that, e.g left side 125, right side 130 then use 127 left and 128 right. It doesn't make that much difference to the height. More important on the front.
 
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