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Bet he is good at Tetris!

Here

If that is the case then is the small ball bearing that pushes on the end of the armature (at the worm end) up against the shaft. It keeps the armature in the correct place and stops it rubbing on the casing

100w is about 7.5A load so 4 would be 30A, call it another 15A for the extra spots and another 10A for the normal headlamps / sidelights etc and you are now at 55A. If you have a 100A+ alternator it should be just about ok and still manage to charge the battery assuming you aren't continually...

Are the wiper arm spindles stiff to turn (a common issue), could have been the cause of the original burning out and the new one being slow. Edit: Ah by gears did you mean the wheel boxes?

No, the heater being too hot certainly isn't a known defender issue! :D

Corrected that for you! :)

Unlikely, 315 and 443 is just the carrier frequency that the information is transmitted on. If you didn't have that functionality before hand there may not be appropriate wiring in the looms or in the doors, fitting a new box may also require the additional wiring if that is the case

Possibly a chafed cable (a common issue in the Left wing), the vibration and rocking of the engine as you start it may be causing a temporary short which blows the fuse. Try wiggling the looms at the top of the wing around the windscreen washer bottle / heater air intake ducts to see if that...

Depending upon the nature and position of the crack you may be able to get it welded up instead

Use a metal P gasket rather than the paper/card version, supposedly longer lasting. Loosen the bolts on the pump pulley before removing the aux belt. Is the coolant due replacement (have you got fresh coolant plus demin water? ). Do the pipe clamps look rusty, if so get replacements first...

Search for something like 'defender air intake' on eBay, that has a few hits and you may get something second hand that will do the job. Alternativly ask in the sales/wants on here if you haven't already, you may be lucky

A fully wired 13 does everything that a 12N and 12S does (the black and grey 7 pin connectors) in one good quality connector. 12N & 12S are prone to corrosion issues etc. I would never go back to them after using the 13 pin for the last 10+ years

Why not fit the 13 pin one in position (it is a lot better quality connector) and use a 13 to 7 pin adaptor when you need to tow a 7 pin trailer? This type of thing, lots of variants available

This help?

Warning lights are either operated by applying 12v (actually about 13.8 when running) or an earth depending upon the type of circuit so 3 does sound wrong. The multiway connector would be my first place to check to see if there is 12v there. I've never really liked those connectors and Flexi...

Ah ok then, time for me to wind my neck in!!:D Good luck

Is its the whole shaft that is turning rather than the splined adaptor, If it is then either the whole gearwheel is turning because the gearwheel teeth are slipping on the drive wire or the shaft is slipping on the gearwheel. I cant remember if the shaft is just a friction fit or whether it is...

Sounds like the splines in the wiper arm are slipping relative to the splines on the wheel box adaptor. Is the arm a nice tight fit on the spindle or wobbly?

Think you've had your moneys worth out of them!:D