What did you do with your Range Rover today

Flossie · Monday at 16:43

P38 Monkey said:
Replaced all 6 gas struts, with good quality Stabilus ones. Having not owned a P38 before, everything seemed heavy and clunky. Glove box just crashing open etc. Now with new struts front, rear and interior, everything works beautifully.

We're these p38 struts from the likes of rimmers/island 4x4 etc or did you source them using cross referencing? I fitted a new centre console strut which made it better but still needs a lift to open(that might be normal?) and tailgate struts from island which ,again, made it better but my mates 38 struts that he got off ebay actually raise the tailgate up to full height with no assistance, I have to lift it all the way, its easy enough though.

Flossie · Monday at 16:57

Datatek said:
Just had that problem when I went to set the windows after my flat battery incident, window went down but not up so used Faultmate to close it.

I'm finding the plastic welding of the switch 'pins' a faff so had a look to see if it was possible to secure the switch with small self tappers into the remains of the switch studs that originally hold the thing in place. It looks possible but would need tiny screws, an even tinyer pilot hole and maybe a duff switchpack to experiment with. Then I got cold in the garage and the warmth of the soldering iron won the day.

Datatek · Monday at 16:58

Flossie said:
I'm finding the plastic welding of the switch 'pins' a faff so had a look to see if it was possible to secure the switch with small self tappers into the remains of the switch studs that originally hold the thing in place. It looks possible but would need tiny screws, an even tinyer pilot hole and maybe a duff switchpack to experiment with. Then I got cold in the garage and the warmth of the soldering iron won the day.

I have always just heated the end of the pin with my soldering iron.

P38 Monkey · Monday at 17:14

Flossie said:
We're these p38 struts from the likes of rimmers/island 4x4 etc or did you source them using cross referencing? I fitted a new centre console strut which made it better but still needs a lift to open(that might be normal?) and tailgate struts from island which ,again, made it better but my mates 38 struts that he got off ebay actually raise the tailgate up to full height with no assistance, I have to lift it all the way, its easy enough though.

I did a cross-reference. Important to get the bonnet ones right as there are three variants and not all makes (eg QH) have all types. Locking or not, and under-bonnet pad or not. Centre console is neutral on lifting but somehow a lot easier action than before. Tailgate goes up on its own, and when closing I bring it down to a few inches away then let go and it slams itself - but not too hard. Bonnet self-lifts to full height gently.

kermit_rr · Monday at 17:18

Well that foxed me.. for a while.
Yesterday got a fob battery low message. So i swapped the battery from the other fob. Same message!! Put this good battery back in to the fob i took it from.. no message.

Check the voltage.. 3.0v so ok.. the message was following the fob, not the battery!! Even when i put a new (3.3v) battery in i still got the warning!!

Then i figured it out because I'm a clever sossidge.

Lock/unlock.. message gone

P38 Monkey · Monday at 18:48

kermit_rr said:
Well that foxed me.. for a while.
Yesterday got a fob battery low message. So i swapped the battery from the other fob. Same message!! Put this good battery back in to the fob i took it from.. no message.

Check the voltage.. 3.0v so ok.. the message was following the fob, not the battery!! Even when i put a new (3.3v) battery in i still got the warning!!

Then i figured it out because I'm a clever sossidge.

Lock/unlock.. message gone

It’s just the BeCM keeping you on your toes.

AndyF07 · Monday at 20:17

So today's job ... removing rhs blend motor which isn't behaving. Not as bad as expected and pretty easy to get out without removing dashboard. Replacement (new to me) arriving tomorrow. Interestingly when bench testing the faulty one there is only a pretty minor output voltage blip at the mid range of movement in one direction of movement only. Will replace potentiometer and hopefully have a working spare

And then on to fun job of front ball joint replacement.... not looking forward to that lol

Mark Piercy · Tuesday at 06:24

P38 Monkey said:
Replaced all 6 gas struts, with good quality Stabilus ones. Having not owned a P38 before, everything seemed heavy and clunky. Glove box just crashing open etc. Now with new struts front, rear and interior, everything works beautifully.

Could you post the link for the glove and cubby box struts please lad, I had replaced mine a few year ago and they both gave up after a year or so

that was about 6yrs ago

Grrrrrr · Tuesday at 11:09

pwood999 said:
Nearest imperial size is 1/2". BES do them, inluding 15mm to 1/2" converters.

View attachment 336821

They used to do nice thick ones to take up the gap.

Ordered some parts from China on eBay. Hopefully won't be long arriving.

Grrrrrr · Tuesday at 11:11

Datatek said:
Personally, I would never trust an olive on flexible hose.

No. Straight connector onto pipe a nd then barb connector with compression fitting the other side. Then the reverse to get on the other metal pipe. I'll post links when I get near a PC.

Grrrrrr · Tuesday at 11:13

AIRBAG FAULT came up today. Nice.

Bix · Tuesday at 11:22

Grrrrrr said:
AIRBAG FAULT came up today. Nice.

Suppose that makes sense, front airbags were rated for a 10 year life (15 year side airbags). I can't imagine anyone ever had them replaced so even the youngest are looking at 23 years old.

RangeRoller dt · Tuesday at 17:57

Later versions will clear lot of srs faults as they are sorted. Early ones you need diagnostics to reset and get the light off for mot even if flat battery sets it off. Not problem for Grrr but caused me lot of issues

roythebus · Tuesday at 23:22

A lengthy trip today in my TDV84.4, Ashford via London to Grantham and back. 350-odd miles, average speed of 47 mph, mpg 30.4. Not bad at all. At one stage the average speed was 57 mph an 34,6 mpg! The sticky brake problem is temporarily fixed, a good quirt with WD40-ish stuff and working the pins round and round and in and out freed everything up. The driver side heating packed up again as expected, and so did the whole heating system before the day was out! It neds a new valve fitted, the next job on the list! Lucky the heated seats still work.

kermit_rr · 2025-03-12T07:29:05+0000

I've not done any long/motorway drives since i fixed the mpg-o-meter on the dash

roythebus · 2025-03-12T10:53:42+0000

It was intereesting to see the mpg on a long motorway run. I wonder how the sticky rear brake affected the mpg?

Blob · 2025-03-12T14:33:55+0000

Waxed it last weekend.

Got a bit of dust on this weekend

Then it broke a CV joint and I found a small hole in the NSF air bag. What are the chances of both things going on that front corner? I am loving the convenient nature of these issues.

And no, I didn't break it off roading, the CV let go 77 miles from the mud and at the top of my brother's road where I simply coasted to a stop outside his place, told him what happened and he replied:
"Tea?"
"Nice one."
"Will it drive up into the garage?"
"Yeah, I'll chuck in rock crawl so it locks the centre diff and it'll go"

Stripped down and waiting for the parts now.

Datatek · 2025-03-12T14:41:33+0000

Looks like the P38 battery has survived being discharged to 1.48 volts. 18 hours on my home made charger (WW2 ex-government large multi tap transformer together with ex-gov WW2 ammeter and modern bridge rectifier) brought it up to 12.8 volts, then 48 hours on a smart 4 amp charger to full charge, so it looks like it still has good capacity. The BECM goes to sleep as it should so I have to conclude that the solar charge controller is at fault but I have been unable to prove it. 48 hours since the charger came off and it's still showing 12.81 volts.

kermit_rr · 2025-03-12T14:53:08+0000

Datatek said:
Looks like the P38 battery has survived being discharged to 1.48 volts. 18 hours on my home made charger (WW2 ex-government large multi tap transformer together with ex-gov WW2 ammeter and modern bridge rectifier) brought it up to 12.8 volts, then 48 hours on a smart 4 amp charger to full charge, so it looks like it still has good capacity. The BECM goes to sleep as it should so I have to conclude that the solar charge controller is at fault but I have been unable to prove it. 48 hours since the charger came off and it's still showing 12.81 volts.

you know you have to check the volts under load too

good luck!
I had a cheap PWM fail, not sure what happened but it took a decent draw when it was connected.. didnt seem to get hot though

Datatek · 2025-03-12T14:55:00+0000

kermit_rr said:
you know you have to check the volts under load too good luck!
I had a cheap PWM fail, not sure what happened but it took a decent draw when it was connected.. didnt seem to get hot though

48 hours with the BECM drawing 50ma is the test so far.

What did you do with your Range Rover today

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