Bankzs 110 CSW XS Build

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That’s some torque… think as all your stuff is HD when it goes,it goes well…

Form them pics I would say the shaft splines would not give way and expanded while been twisted. Once it was wedged in the stub that’s when it snapped the shaft.
(See a cheap end cap would have blown the splines & saved you time)

still love all your updates & testing of parts
 
That’s some torque… think as all your stuff is HD when it goes,it goes well…

Form them pics I would say the shaft splines would not give way and expanded while been twisted. Once it was wedged in the stub that’s when it snapped the shaft.
(See a cheap end cap would have blown the splines & saved you time)

still love all your updates & testing of parts
love it built in redundacy and sacrificial parts selection due to extreme driver superb!!!!
 
😂 😂 Yeah standard shafts, that one only went in in December!

Tbf I like the look of the HD flanges! They worked well on my old 110. Often talked about is having cheap flanges or even cutting a few splines off them to make them specifically weaker but that can cause its own issues because the shafts start to fret and cause premature wear and thus break under minimal load!

Quite impressive how you can see the shaft has almost done a full 360 before snapping and exploding!

I also don't really want to fit HD shafts & CVs because that will just translate the shock further down the line resulting in a blown diff or box. So may keep the 600nm slow blow fuses 😂

Also never really an issue only takes an hour to change a shaft & CV only a touch longer for bearings/stub axles just depends if I have the parts on hand!

It was definitely not because I had in pinned in 3rd low on the limiter at 34psi of boost going over large ruts in a 2.7 ton truck 😂 😂
 
Those HD CVs are seriously expensive too. I agree with the above - I reckon if you hadve had cheap members they would’ve cheesed up first. Do you decide where the weakest link is to be and make it the cheapest part lol? Like you said, go HD with the shafts and it could just end up smashing diff or transfer. Watching this with interest as I got a torquey build planned for mine!
 
Those HD CVs are seriously expensive too. I agree with the above - I reckon if you hadve had cheap members they would’ve cheesed up first. Do you decide where the weakest link is to be and make it the cheapest part lol? Like you said, go HD with the shafts and it could just end up smashing diff or transfer. Watching this with interest as I got a torquey build planned for mine!

Oem flanges dont have the best tolerances so you do get a fair bit of fretting and transmission slap. Fairly reduced with the HD flanges!

Think ill stick with britpart shafts and CVs takes a fair bit of lead foot and shockload to actually break them and 9/10 its the short side!

Long side has enough length it can twist far more before actually snapping.
 
Oem flanges dont have the best tolerances so you do get a fair bit of fretting and transmission slap. Fairly reduced with the HD flanges!

Think ill stick with britpart shafts and CVs takes a fair bit of lead foot and shockload to actually break them and 9/10 its the short side!

Long side has enough length it can twist far more before actually snapping.
That’s interesting. I was so snobby that it was gkn or nothing for me and I only drive across fields.
 
Joy of joys. Thought Id take the 110 out for a a bit, got all of 10 meters before I heard an unsettling slapping noise...

And the crank pulley is seconds away from letting go 😮‍💨😮‍💨

So need to replace that now 😒

On the hand made another snorkel & airbox for a D2, with a little custom touch for the intake grill. He called his 90 "The Donkey" which is sadly being sold soon so it lives on with the D2!

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After Empire tuning had my new crank pulley delivered in record time I set about changing it. Not actually a bad job really!

I did have to make a tool to lock the crank pully in place, eas enough to do. Put it in low range 5th for good measure.

2m breaker bar and off it came.

Old one is how you say fubar....

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New one is on + new corteco seal.

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Now need to borrow someones torque wrench to ensure its fully done up!
 
Joy!! 😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨

3 amigos on a bloody Defender...

Its not the brake fluid reservoir connectors already changed those.

Nanocom is jumping between shuttle valve failure and drivers side sensor...

Could have disturbed/damaged it with the CV work ffs.

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Question..

Is it a special process to bleed brakes? As you have abs.(iv not had anything to do with abs)

Did you pry the pads back & confuse the shuttle valve ?
Do you have to set the height of the sensor?

Thanks for your knowledge
 
Question..

Is it a special process to bleed brakes? As you have abs.(iv not had anything to do with abs)

Did you pry the pads back & confuse the shuttle valve ?
Do you have to set the height of the sensor?

Thanks for your knowledge

When changing pads i have never had an issue after.

Sensor height is set by an air gap. So push it in as far as it goes, spin the wheel and thats that.

Bleeding can done as you would a normal car, or you can use powerbleed function on nanocom which is amazing. Just crack the nipple push a button and its done!

If you change the modulator then afaik you have to use Nanocom/diagnostics to fully bleed it.
 
Changed the ABS shuttle valve today. Absolutely hate doing this job, wouldnt be so bad if it was easyto get my wings off 🙈

Through the hole it is! Took about 3 hours and some cut wrists

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Finally out and replaced with a pre modified one which completely eliminates and future shuttle valve problems with a simple wiring mod.

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Good news is the shuttle valve fault is gone and the ABS lights have gone. However quickly came back with an ABS sensor fault which im fairly certain is down to the crap Allmakes CV
 
After Empire tuning had my new crank pulley delivered in record time I set about changing it. Not actually a bad job really!

I did have to make a tool to lock the crank pully in place, eas enough to do. Put it in low range 5th for good measure.

2m breaker bar and off it came.

Old one is how you say fubar....

View attachment 336411View attachment 336412
View attachment 336413

New one is on + new corteco seal.

View attachment 336414

Now need to borrow someones torque wrench to ensure its fully done up!
normal anticlockwise thread? how did you lock the crank?
 
normal anticlockwise thread? how did you lock the crank?

Yup normal. Took the balancer off the front, got some flat bar, rotated the crank till 2 of the bolts where vertical (had to turn the steering full left), marked the bar, drilled 2 holes. Made a cut out for the crank bolt.

Bolted the bar onto the crank, with the holes vertical its wedged against the ground.

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Then a 1.5m breaker bar comes off fairly easily. Tightened up using the same method just putting the bar on the other side.

Still need to borrow a torque wrench to check its done up tight enough 🙈
 
Well that is the last of the ABS saga at least for a while!

New CV & Shaft. Lights came back... 🤷‍♂️

New sensor in lights gone!

Funny how the sensor lasted a year to the day! But its a 2 year warranty so will be going back to Island4x4 for a refund..

Not the greatest photograph but had a good bath and some waterless wax. Shinnyy 😎

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Hows this for odd as well.

My old 110s reg was ND04 YWY my best mates 110 is ND04 FWH.

According to some various checks and information we found. Not only where they built within a few months of each other, they where also sold from the same dealership!

His 110 also has a few parts i salvaged from my old one, stranger still that after 20+ years both cars ended up being owned by two friends!
 
Never ends does it!

Finally been enjoying the 110 again, parked up and my mate said "whats all that red stuff coming out the bottom"

FFS 😡 Not another coolant leak!!

Quick check and the expansion cap was loose and had become soft and flexible? 🤷‍♂️ never experienced that before!

So soft that it wouldnt seal properly on the treads, so topped up coolant and put a jubilee round it to get me home.

I know it was sunny yesterday but not that hot!!
 
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