Eas system holds air then drops after driving and turn off

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dubloman

Active Member
Posts
109
Location
UK
Hi Everyone

My P38 2.5TD is running and has 200k on the clock.

My issue is that my eas system will get to height and be fine. It will hold pressure for two or 3 days or more without any problems.

I've checked for air leaks and I have nothing that I can see.

The main problem is the air system will be at the correct height and is fine. I can drive 100 mile and no problems but the moment I stop and turn off the engine the eas system will drop and then take time to build back up.

I suspect it being an issue with a NRV or a seal has failed causing the system to drop like this.

Has anyone had a similar experience and if so how was it fixed and by what method.

Thanks
 
OK

Thanks for the information.

Do do suggest pulling it before I turn off the engine or after?

I only ask as it seems to drop fairly quickly after turn off
 
Thanks

I will try that tomorrow

I have found the relay and I haven't been under the seat before and it wasn't on its mounting. I was about to remove it and the case came off.

That's not the issue but it's more for information.

Could the relay be at fault?

Not sure what impact this relay has on the eas system so please educate me.

Thanks
 
dubloman said:
Thanks

I will try that tomorrow

I have found the relay and I haven't been under the seat before and it wasn't on its mounting. I was about to remove it and the case came off.

That's not the issue but it's more for information.

Could the relay be at fault?

Not sure what impact this relay has on the eas system so please educate me.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Basically controls self levelling when the ignition is off and provide power when the ignition is on. the car self levels about every 6 hours when the ignition is off.
 
OK

Done my tests today

The car was left for 4 days at it's highest point and didn't move at all.

Went on a short journey and as instructed stopped the car (and whilst the car was still running and no clicks etc) and removed the relay.

I then turned off the engine but had noticed that the cars eas had dropped slightly (I had not gone over 35mph) but it was probably at normal running height.

I came out to the car and started the engine (but got a single horn toot and the 35mph message) the car had stayed level at this point.
I then drove a few miles again but the rear of the car had dropped more on the o/s than the n/s and carried out the same procedure again.

When coming back out to the car after about 10 minutes the position was the same as I left it. Started the engine again (getting the same response from the car, a toot of the horn and the 35mph message) put the relay back in and noticed on this occasion the eas lights were solid and I turned the car off and started it again but the front came down as I had not removed the relay as previously done.

From previous issue (I have not dealt with yet) is the knowledge that the eas sensors on the rear have been bent as the car was overloaded so this might explain the rear dropping but it might not have an impact on the problem.

I so have the eas software but as yet not connected it up to read the faults. I would need to get the system up to full height before I plug it in. If I get it upto height and can drive all day turn the car off and back on again without the eas having a problem.

It's only after the car is left overnight and go to the top of the message is when the issue starts.

So with this said does anyone have a possible solution to this issue
 
dubloman said:
OK

Done my tests today

The car was left for 4 days at it's highest point and didn't move at all.

Went on a short journey and as instructed stopped the car (and whilst the car was still running and no clicks etc) and removed the relay.

I then turned off the engine but had noticed that the cars eas had dropped slightly (I had not gone over 35mph) but it was probably at normal running height.

I came out to the car and started the engine (but got a single horn toot and the 35mph message) the car had stayed level at this point.
I then drove a few miles again but the rear of the car had dropped more on the o/s than the n/s and carried out the same procedure again.

When coming back out to the car after about 10 minutes the position was the same as I left it. Started the engine again (getting the same response from the car, a toot of the horn and the 35mph message) put the relay back in and noticed on this occasion the eas lights were solid and I turned the car off and started it again but the front came down as I had not removed the relay as previously done.

From previous issue (I have not dealt with yet) is the knowledge that the eas sensors on the rear have been bent as the car was overloaded so this might explain the rear dropping but it might not have an impact on the problem.

I so have the eas software but as yet not connected it up to read the faults. I would need to get the system up to full height before I plug it in. If I get it upto height and can drive all day turn the car off and back on again without the eas having a problem.

It's only after the car is left overnight and go to the top of the message is when the issue starts.

So with this said does anyone have a possible solution to this issue
Click to expand...
How old are the air springs? Sounds like it's time for a valve block overhaul to me assuming the bags are not leaking. Leaks open and close where the bag folds under so may seal at wade height but leak at normal height. If the sensor arms were bent the rear would ride higher than normal. You cannot bend them by overloading even when on the bump stops they are not stressed.
 
Thanks for getting back to me.

The bags have not been changed in my ownership (I've owned it since 2019) and as for the possibility of a leak the bags have been in the normal position overnight and I have experienced the same problems as I have explained so I am not convinced that the bags leak.

I had suspected that the valve block was at fault but my experience with the system is limited.

Assuming that all the NRV are working OK, how many seals are needed to overhaul the valve block. Plus who is the best company or place to purchase them. I will also overhaul the pump at the same time.

What should be replaced in the overhaul (I've seen videos of the job)
Can the NRVs be purchased or is it normally the seals that fail first.

Thanks in advance, you've confirmed my suspicions.
 
X8R for the parts. Replace all the o-rings & diaphragm valve. Do the compressor refurb as well.

Before & after that check the airbag for leaks where the airline enters, and around the folds in the bags at all four heights.
 
Thanks

I have checked the bags already but I will follow guidelines and refurb the block and pump.

Thanks
 
dubloman said:
Thanks for getting back to me.

The bags have not been changed in my ownership (I've owned it since 2019) and as for the possibility of a leak the bags have been in the normal position overnight and I have experienced the same problems as I have explained so I am not convinced that the bags leak.

I had suspected that the valve block was at fault but my experience with the system is limited.

Assuming that all the NRV are working OK, how many seals are needed to overhaul the valve block. Plus who is the best company or place to purchase them. I will also overhaul the pump at the same time.

What should be replaced in the overhaul (I've seen videos of the job)
Can the NRVs be purchased or is it normally the seals that fail first.

Thanks in advance, you've confirmed my suspicions.
Click to expand...
Just the O rings needed for the NRV's unless the cone is badly ridged, in which case they can be smoothed off.
Airbags have a design life of 8 years 80K miles so unless they were changed a year or two before you purchased the vehicle, they must be due for renewal.
 
The relay is needed for the EAS to work properly. It can be replaced with a normal automotive relay and the system will work but not self-level although it will not talk to diagnostics like that.

Might be worth checking height calibration. If it is outside expected values (defaults are on here somewhere) then it may well drop trying to find a sensible value.
 
I've rebuilt the valve block and I thought I'd done it correctly but I am having problems.

Started the car and it kicked out an eas fault.

I tried to connect to the laptop and select the correct comms port but it's not communicating with the car.
Turn ignition to position 2
Plug into car
Plug into laptop

Found correct com port and selected but eas software is saying it can't connect.

When running the car the pump isn't running.

I get an intermittent fault that shows no eas fault and then it kicks in with the faults.

Any suggestions on what i could have done wrong?

Thanks
 
dubloman said:
I've rebuilt the valve block and I thought I'd done it correctly but I am having problems.

Started the car and it kicked out an eas fault.

I tried to connect to the laptop and select the correct comms port but it's not communicating with the car.
Turn ignition to position 2
Plug into car
Plug into laptop

Found correct com port and selected but eas software is saying it can't connect.

When running the car the pump isn't running.

I get an intermittent fault that shows no eas fault and then it kicks in with the faults.

Any suggestions on what i could have done wrong?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Plug into laptop
Plug into car
Start EAS program
Turn on the ignition.
The pump will not run as long as there is a fault present.
If the battery is low, you will need to have the engine running.
 
Datatek said:
Plug into laptop
Plug into car
Start EAS program
Turn on the ignition.
The pump will not run as long as there is a fault present.
If the battery is low, you will need to have the engine running.
Click to expand...
I have done it wrong

I bypassed the relay and the pump does work.

I now find that because of all the messing about the battery has gone flat so it's now on charge.

Hopefully when I follow the correct procedure I will get the car to communicate with the laptop

Thanks for the information
 
Tried it the way you have suggested and I get the same result.

Any ideas what else could wrong?

I've checked all the fuses under the bonnet and they are all fine.

I know that air is going into the system as when the airlines are removed from the valve block to check something else it had pressure.

The compressor works and the car has a fault that it will show no eas and then after running for about 1 minute it chucks out the eas fault.

Is there anyone in Preston Lancashire that can try and connect it with another device?
 
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