GrumpyGel said:
Drove it to the club for quiz.

Got out and pressed the fob to lock it, and it sounded the horn, like a door was not closed.

All doors are closed, and when I turn the ignition on, the door open warning is not lit. However, summat is up with the back door. It is shut and window fully up. Pressing the latch to open the door does nothing. The rear wiper won't operate.

Bit of a coincidence that the opening switch would go and the car thinks the door is open at the same time but not show the door open warning (maybe it doesn't think the window is closed). I think something else is up.

Such fun, looks like some investigating to do. May just try disconnecting the battery, waiting then reconnecting to see if maybe the CCU has got its knickers in a twist again. It has been very wet recently, an inch of rain today on top of best part of a foot so far this month - dunno if that's a factor.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a faulty boot lock mate. I've seen similar a few times.
 
GrumpyGel said:
May just try disconnecting the battery, waiting then reconnecting to see if maybe the CCU has got its knickers in a twist again. It has been very wet recently, an inch of rain today on top of best part of a foot so far this month - dunno if that's a factor
Click to expand...
You need to be careful doing that. If the window cables have failed, then the CCU will drive the window down, winding the broken cables around the spool and cause more grief.
Don't ask me how I know.:oops:
 
395F67D4-1366-4EB1-A7A6-1F5BC66260F2.jpeg
New discs on front. Plan of a couple hours work extended to 6 by the time I'd pummled the discs off with big ammer. None of the YouTube hacks worked. Britpart XS and Delphi pads. Couldn't quite get the max 0.08mm runout on the DTI, but better than 0.2mm wobble I checked on the old discs.
 
Stufer said:
View attachment 270260 New discs on front. Plan of a couple hours work extended to 6 by the time I'd pummled the discs off with big ammer. None of the YouTube hacks worked. Britpart XS and Delphi pads. Couldn't quite get the max 0.08mm runout on the DTI, but better than 0.2mm wobble I checked on the old discs.
Click to expand...
Last time I had trouble getting the discs off I sliced them with a grinder then put a chisel into the slot and a few taps later they opened up and almost fell off. ;)
 
Started to hear very light knocking sound from right front corner when driving slowly on dirt roads. Today investigated and as I guessed it was the drop link; the upper joint had some play in it. My local parts dealer didn't have Meyle HD drop links so had to buy a pair of TRW drop links. Ordered a pair of Meyle HD drop links though, so they will be ready, not if but when the next time comes

Old drop link bolts didn't fight me, so installation was easy and fast.
 
Had to replace the right rear passenger door window regulator (motor packed up) so whilst doing this I've replaced the 4 door speakers for the JVC items @Nodge68 suggested just got the left rear passenger door to do I've got to track down a tweeter for the drivers door/mirror finisher,Harmon K job.
20220729_183816.jpg
 
Tail door won't open and the window won't go down.

Need to get door open to do anything really, so I'm hoping I can either energise the latch some how or remove the door handle and access it through a hole. But first of all, I'll need to remove the trim at the top of the window to allow the door to open... to Rave. Rave says to remove the top finisher, you must first remove the side finishers. Fair enough... To remove side finishers, first open door. Ahh.

OK. Maybe I can get the window to work some how. Pressing the lift/lower button on the console results in no activity on the back door (no motor sounds) but it dims the lights on the dash a bit - so the CCU is trying to action movement on the window. Reading Rave, looks like the areas of failure are likely to be the motor, relay or earth point. I can swap the relay over from parts car and check earth by removing the load space panel. Reading Rave, the door needs to be open. Ahhh.
 
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htr said:
Lol - we feel your pain - o_O
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I did have a sort of success.

Although the door was firmly "closed" - I twigged that the car "thought" it was open - cos the horn sounds when you lock it. So I gave it a firm push, then tried the handle again... and got that welcoming, if rather horrid, clunk sound as it did its bit and unlatched the door. So the door is now "open" - but obviously held closed by the trim at the top as the window hasn't gone down.

I was looking to see if I could slide the top trim out from under the side trims, when my mate called to say he was going out for a walk with the dog and would I like to join them... so the door will wait till tomorrow.

Reading in Rave, it says that the clips for the trim over the door should be thrown away and new ones purchased.

Does anyone know what chance I'll have of being able to reuse them and get a seal?
 
I was messing about today fitting an updated coolant level sensor. I've fitted a VW polo coolant tank and it had the sensor set-up in it. So I just bought a switch thingumabob from Aliexpress... I had to take the instrument binnacle apart to trace out my wiring for the warning LED I fitted in 2014. While I was there I took the opportunity to extend the antenna for the remote locking arraignment. Before the remote locking was near to useless - you had to be right up at the car and near its front end. It's so much better now! Locks and unlocks from some metres away and from well behind the car too:)
 
GrumpyGel said:
Does anyone know what chance I'll have of being able to reuse them and get a seal?
Click to expand...

The top outer rail is held with removable 'door trim' type fixings which will almost certainly break when levered out. The key thing is not to break the mountings on the rail as then you can't fit replacements.
I managed to gently push the glass down and it rode over the outer rail when my door and glass got stuck, gentle persuasion is the way!! Sounds like the ccu doesn't know where the glass is and the fault is probably the hall effect sensor in the motor unit for the window. This can be changed, I wrote on it a while ago but change motor is easier!!
 
andyfreelandy said:
The top outer rail is held with removable 'door trim' type fixings which will almost certainly break when levered out. The key thing is not to break the mountings on the rail as then you can't fit replacements.
I managed to gently push the glass down and it rode over the outer rail when my door and glass got stuck, gentle persuasion is the way!! Sounds like the ccu doesn't know where the glass is and the fault is probably the hall effect sensor in the motor unit for the window. This can be changed, I wrote on it a while ago but change motor is easier!!
Click to expand...
Today I resolved this particular issue of a window that won't go down getting past the top trim.

I wanted to open the tail door on the parts car to access the bits I'll need for a fix. No battery in the parts car, so drove car over to said parts car to use jump leads to power it. Hundred things going through me head, not just the repair. Got out of the car to retrieve jump leads from boot, walks round to back of car, pulls the handle and yanks the door. Made a horrible noise as the glass scraped under that top fitting :eek:

Couldn't fookin believe I'd just done that. Looks like I got away with it though, glass didn't break. Mind you, this may have been the 'event' that caused my next dilema...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rear-tail-door-window-not-operating.380977/
 
I had my brakes worked on today in an attempt to lift the braking performance at WoF [your MoT] time. It had been coming in at the low 50% efficiency rating. Replaced the front pads to the slightly softer EBC 'Greenstuff' ones, checked & re-greased the guide pins, fitted new st'd brake shoes, drums, springs and rear wheel cylinders and changed the brake fluild. I'll give it a couple of weeks to all bed in and see how it goes.
 
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