Hippo
Lord Hippo
You need to get the filter replaced. It can be done diy. There's video's on youtube of how to do it. You can buy the kit and oil from Bell engineering.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
After kicking up a fuss with the ebay seller, they've refunded me the pipe, and I don't need to return it, which means I can cut it off the metal pipes. I'm thinking of returning the metal pipes too, as I'm not happy about the fit. The bends don't exactly follow the OE pipes, so the flexy hose is too close to the brake lines on the inner wing. Also the bracket that carries the fuel line is about 10mm closer to the ARB than the factory pipes, again because the bends aren't so tight.Not even my car and I'm raging for you that the new parts arrived defective
I've ordered a complete genuine LR pipe assembly, which I should have done to start with.
Was the missus OK with cosigning for the new mortgage extension for the genuine LR parts?I've ordered a complete genuine LR pipe assembly, which I should have done to start with.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I didn't tell her.
I found a 4x4 specialist selling the genuine hose and solid pipes for £151, and I spent another £9.59 on a Litre of the special green CHF fluid stuff to go in the reservoir. I think £161 for piece of mind is acceptable.
Providing the pump doesn't fail because I drove it home without any fluid in the system, but so far the pump seems to be working, although it is noisier than it was pre pipe failure.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
@Nodge68 - your F2 has been a very naughty Freelander recently. Sorry to hear of the grief. Hope it rewards you for genuine parts!!
Today, serviced a local farmers F1. My word, last oil 60k ago, front calipers seized, all ball joints rattled, driveshafts split, handbrake not working, egr stuck, vacuum pipes split, drop links shot, so a couple of days on my back!! Just got it an MOT though and it helped the guy who can't work without it. 180k on the clock and still had the original LR turbo filter with the black pipe ring on the vent!!
Today, serviced a local farmers F1. My word, last oil 60k ago, front calipers seized, all ball joints rattled, driveshafts split, handbrake not working, egr stuck, vacuum pipes split, drop links shot, so a couple of days on my back!! Just got it an MOT though and it helped the guy who can't work without it. 180k on the clock and still had the original LR turbo filter with the black pipe ring on the vent!!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Actually it's been more trouble than I've ever had with a FL1, and this came to me with full LR service history.
However the dealer responsible for looking after it had done some of the worst maintenance and bodges I'd ever seen on my D3, so I'm not surprised this vehicle is no different.
I think on the whole the FL2 is a good vehicle, but it does have a few really naughty components, which kinda spoil the vehicle really.
I still prefer it to the FL1, it's everything the FL1 should have been, except where reliability of some key components is concerned.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
It doesn't matter how often we tell others to do this we still try the cheap options ourselves.After kicking up a fuss with the ebay seller, they've refunded me the pipe, and I don't need to return it, which means I can cut it off the metal pipes. I'm thinking of returning the metal pipes too, as I'm not happy about the fit. The bends don't exactly follow the OE pipes, so the flexy hose is too close to the brake lines on the inner wing. Also the bracket that carries the fuel line is about 10mm closer to the ARB than the factory pipes, again because the bends aren't so tight.
I've ordered a complete genuine LR pipe assembly, which I should have done to start with.
I say we because it has happened to you, me and other experienced LZ'ers so often.
Will we ever learn?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I knew when I ordered the pattern parts that it was a gamble, which hasn't paid off.
I do on the whole I try to use OE parts, but this time I didn't.
Today I realised my "bonatti grey" (gunmetal) freelander looks tough as F###! Well it certainly does compared to my mates dad's originally red, faded to pink vitara convertible. Not even a tratter troll could dispute that. However I do expect a @saxavordian characteur is heading my way
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
Last Sunday, my brother competing & winning the LWB class in the CVLRC Tyro I setup.
Yay, wheels in the air!
Yay, wheels in the air!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Good to see he used the right car for the job.Last Sunday, my brother competing & winning the LWB class in the CVLRC Tyro I setup.
Yay, wheels in the air!
On 17s too, that's good going.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Today I replaced the cheap Chinese power steering flexy hose, with a genuine LR hose, out of an LR packet (assuming it's not a clone), and so far the leak seems to have gone.
I've now got to send the solid metal pipes back, as they don't look too good quality wise either, definitely not genuine LR as advertised.
I've also managed to work out a way to split the hose from the solid pipe, which apparently can't be done, but it can.
), and so far the leak seems to have gone. I've now got to send the solid metal pipes back, as they don't look too good quality wise either, definitely not genuine LR as advertised.
I've also managed to work out a way to split the hose from the solid pipe, which apparently can't be done, but it can.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Having replaced a number of pipes and the thermostat on the V6 F1, there was still a worrying hissing / gurgling noise coming from the coolant pipes when the engine was turned off. No visible leaks so pressurised the system with air and sprayed a washing up solution around it all.
Found a pinhole size bubble stream on the very bottom of the radiator (corner).
Popped the front bumper off and fitted a spare 1.8 Radiator that I had in the workshop. Need to change the top plastic mounts over but otherwise it is identical to the V6 rad.
Hey presto, no more indigestion when switched off. I guess it was trying to boil a bit??
Just got my last big timing belt to change now and the vehicle is a good un. (Did the 2 x small onesfirst as they looked the most difficult to get to. Managed without special tools and just replaced 2 x timing belt pulley bolts with the new belts.)
Found a pinhole size bubble stream on the very bottom of the radiator (corner).
Popped the front bumper off and fitted a spare 1.8 Radiator that I had in the workshop. Need to change the top plastic mounts over but otherwise it is identical to the V6 rad.
Hey presto, no more indigestion when switched off. I guess it was trying to boil a bit??
Just got my last big timing belt to change now and the vehicle is a good un. (Did the 2 x small onesfirst as they looked the most difficult to get to. Managed without special tools and just replaced 2 x timing belt pulley bolts with the new belts.)
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's not bad to change, but it's difficult to get at.
Make sure you lock the crank, and if you don't have the tools, don't undo the cam pulley bolts. Just mark up the pulleys and back plate so you know where the cam pulleys need to be sitting when the new belt goes on.
Oh and there's a tiny hole in the tensioner piston section, which holds the piston in the retracted position, if you insert a 1.5mm drill or rod.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tips. You are right, it is getting at it that is the work!!
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Drove it to the club for quiz.
Got out and pressed the fob to lock it, and it sounded the horn, like a door was not closed.
All doors are closed, and when I turn the ignition on, the door open warning is not lit. However, summat is up with the back door. It is shut and window fully up. Pressing the latch to open the door does nothing. The rear wiper won't operate.
Bit of a coincidence that the opening switch would go and the car thinks the door is open at the same time but not show the door open warning (maybe it doesn't think the window is closed). I think something else is up.
Such fun, looks like some investigating to do. May just try disconnecting the battery, waiting then reconnecting to see if maybe the CCU has got its knickers in a twist again. It has been very wet recently, an inch of rain today on top of best part of a foot so far this month - dunno if that's a factor.
Got out and pressed the fob to lock it, and it sounded the horn, like a door was not closed.
All doors are closed, and when I turn the ignition on, the door open warning is not lit. However, summat is up with the back door. It is shut and window fully up. Pressing the latch to open the door does nothing. The rear wiper won't operate.
Bit of a coincidence that the opening switch would go and the car thinks the door is open at the same time but not show the door open warning (maybe it doesn't think the window is closed). I think something else is up.
Such fun, looks like some investigating to do. May just try disconnecting the battery, waiting then reconnecting to see if maybe the CCU has got its knickers in a twist again. It has been very wet recently, an inch of rain today on top of best part of a foot so far this month - dunno if that's a factor.
