How time flies, going to the New Forest tomorrow so thought I'd take the FL instead of the D2 as it hasn't been on a run for a while, so giving the FL a once over I decided to check when the oil was last changed & I couldn't believe it was over a Yr ago 1/07/21 ! So out came the drain trays (just as well I always keep a stock of oil & filters)I'd previously picked up 8 litres of Castrol magnatec 10/40 'synthetic blend':rolleyes: for a tenner about 3 mths back so as it's hot at the moment I used that instead of my usual 5/40 fully syn along with new filter, (I don’t know about others but I always soak the new filter & clean the housing out). I also remembered that when I changed the auto box oil last July I was going to do 500 miles & do another change well that went by the by:oops: & got done today & nice to see it was still clean (only 2,500 miles later:rolleyes:).
So in the last 9/10 mths
4 new Yokohama Geolanders.
4 new dampers, inc gaiters & bump stop.
2 new fr susp. top mounts.
2 new springs on the rear.
2 new fr. lower arms.
2 new Lemforder steering t/rod ends.
2 new steering track rod bushes where they bolt to the rack.
2 new rr wheel cyl's along with new flexi hoses & brake pipes.
New rear shoes.
New fr. pads.
4 wheel, wheel alignment.
4 new speakers.
1 o/s rr window regulator.
Should keep it going for a while, hopefully, as it's still a great drive despite it's mileage :).
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Last edited:
Andy Warren said:
How time flies, going to the New Forest tomorrow so thought I'd take the FL instead of the D2 as it hasn't been on a run for a while, so giving the FL a once over I decided to check when the oil was last changed & I couldn't believe it was over a Yr ago 1/07/21 ! So out came the drain trays (just as well I always keep a stock of oil & filters)I'd previously picked up 8 litres of Castrol magnatec 10/40 'synthetic blend':rolleyes: for a tenner about 3 mths back so as it's hot at the moment I used that instead of my usual 5/40 fully syn along with new filter, (I don’t know about others but I always soak the new filter & clean the housing out). I also remembered that when I changed the auto box oil last July I was going to do 500 miles & do another change well that went by the by:oops: & got done today & nice to see it was still clean (only 2,500 miles later:rolleyes:).
So in the last 9/10 mths
4 new Yokohama Geolanders.
4 new dampers, inc gaiters & bump stops
2 new springs on the rear.
2 new fr. lower arms.
2 new Lemforder steering t/rod ends.
2 new steering track rod bushes where they bolt to the rack.
2 new rr wheel cyl's along with new flexi hoses & brake pipes.
New rear shoes.
New fr. pads.
4 wheel, wheel alignment.
4 new speakers.
1 o/s rr window regulator.
Should keep it going for a while, hopefully, as it's still a great drive despite it's mileage :). View attachment 271068 View attachment 271064 View attachment 271065 View attachment 271066 View attachment 271067
Click to expand...

And you have just jinxed it by saying the last bit out loud ...;)
Good luck ...
 
I noticed my FL2 has a new and unusual noise at idle. It's almost like something plastic is rattling or buzzing, which stops the movement the engine increases over idle speed.
Actually thinking about it, the noise has only appeared after I replaced the PS pipes, so maybe there's something in that area that is vibrating.
Investigation will continue.
 
Nodge68 said:
I noticed my FL2 has a new and unusual noise at idle. It's almost like something plastic is rattling or buzzing, which stops the movement the engine increases over idle speed.
Actually thinking about it, the noise has only appeared after I replaced the PS pipes, so maybe there's something in that area that is vibrating.
Investigation will continue.
Click to expand...
Yep it annoys me when things like this happen after you know you've done a job how it's supposed to be done.
I only discovered this week after replacing all the suspension components that the new creeking noise I had when turning the steering was the incorrectly assembled n/s fr. shock. I'd taken all the dampers to to a place to have them stripped/assembled as I have no means to do that & it turned out they had put the cupped washer under the top mount upside down:mad: which is why I've only done about 200 miles since Dec as I thought it was something more sinister & I was feeling pretty gutted after spending all that money on it.
I have no doubt you'll sort it ;)(minor problem I'm sure compared to your epic journey with this FL2).
All the best.
 
Andy Warren said:
I have no doubt you'll sort it ;)(minor problem I'm sure compared to your epic journey with this FL2).
Click to expand...

I will, I only notice the noise yesterday afternoon, but now I've heard it, I can't un-hear it.

Yes this FL2 has taken plenty of my time, and changing the rear diff oil a couple of weeks ago showed a metallic grey sheen, which I'm not too impressed about.

Andy Warren said:
All the best.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
 
Nodge68 said:
Yes this FL2 has taken plenty of my time, and changing the rear diff oil a couple of weeks ago showed a metallic grey sheen, which I'm not too impressed about.
Click to expand...
Sorry to hear that, does it feel unusually hot after a run ? (Only going on what Bell Eng. said about FL1 VCU's only be 'warm' after a run,not off roading).
 
Andy Warren said:
Sorry to hear that, does it feel unusually hot after a run ?
Click to expand...

Not really. It's obviously wearing though, but I don't know if the bearing preload is too high, or my oil isn't suitable, but there's definitely fine metallic powder in the oil, which wasn't there when I rebuilt the diff.
 
Dippypud said:
And you have just jinxed it by saying the last bit out loud ...;)
Good luck ...
Click to expand...
Have you got a crystal ball or something? Come out this morning & the n/s rr ind. wasn't working, although to be fair it did this a couple of weeks back but after tapping the lens it worked again, anyway I've had to go & get a couple of bulb holders (1spare) as it wasn't the bulb:mad::):). On top of that a trip to the vets as well as our Patterrerroist overnight had been rubbing his eye & we woke up to this,see pics.:rolleyes: luckily all sorted & the bits of grass removed. Hopefully we'll be off in about an hour ! Fingers crossed.:)
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Having done the injectors I still found some diesel in the well around the injector heads, which I had before I did the injectors. I had thought the diesel was coming up from a damaged seal and out the top of the injector. so I looked at injector number three again and I had used a copper washer with a ridge, which had crush unevenly. just an error. swapped it for the smooth one. Cured, I thought. Nope. it turns out it's most likely leaking from the union nut on injector number three and was going down into the injector well, which is why it was flooded when I took that injector out. Ha. So I changed the connection pipes from common rail to injector head, tightened down nut and a now hoping it is cured. But it is only a faint hope at best. if I have damaged thread on injector I guess I will have to swap the whole injector out. Or get some suitable jointing compound. However, I did take it out for a spin and changing that washer has improved it again. This time it feels like full compression. Only have to touch the pedal to get acceleration, and no smell at all from exhaust. The other thing I did was start cleaning the headlight plastic cover, which has faded. Spontex pad and soapy water seems to be working ok, but it is laborious.

Incidentally, I saw a video where the guy draped a piece of tissue paper over the injectors to see if there was a leak. Apparently air gets pressed out of the injector if there is an imperfect seal. Worth knowing.
 
@Andy Warren hope the dog recovers soon.

@MGT you won't have any luck with any jointing compound on the threads on the inkector as these run at silly pressures like 11,000psi operating pressure, 21,000psi max delivery from the pump IIRC. Just chnage the injector, and the pipes. Leave both sets of nuts on the pipes loose but started on the threads, then start to tighten them up a little at a time going round robin on the four nuts in the pipe pairing. Where you risk stripping the threads is if you nip up one thread, typically the fuel rail end, then go to offer up the injector end, it can be a bugger to get on, and you end up cross threading it, if you do it the way I described you start with the threads on correctly, and you use the nuts to pull the pipes flared ends onto the concave seats taking up any deflection in the pipes that would otherwise be fighting you if the other end was nipped up beforehand.
 
Jayridium said:
@Andy Warren hope the dog recovers soon.

@MGT you won't have any luck with any jointing compound on the threads on the inkector as these run at silly pressures like 11,000psi operating pressure, 21,000psi max delivery from the pump IIRC. Just chnage the injector, and the pipes. Leave both sets of nuts on the pipes loose but started on the threads, then start to tighten them up a little at a time going round robin on the four nuts in the pipe pairing. Where you risk stripping the threads is if you nip up one thread, typically the fuel rail end, then go to offer up the injector end, it can be a bugger to get on, and you end up cross threading it, if you do it the way I described you start with the threads on correctly, and you use the nuts to pull the pipes flared ends onto the concave seats taking up any deflection in the pipes that would otherwise be fighting you if the other end was nipped up beforehand.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will do just that if I find the well full of diesel again tomorrow.
 
MGT said:
Nope. it turns out it's most likely leaking from the union nut on injector number three and was going down into the injector well, which is why it was flooded when I took that injector out. Ha. So I changed the connection pipes from common rail to injector head, tightened down nut and a now hoping it is cured.
Click to expand...

Technically injector HP rail to injector body pipes are a one time fitment, as they crush on the first tightening, making a firm seal.
On subsequent tightening, there's no guarantee it'll seal perfectly next time, especially if the pipe position isn't exactly the same as it was when it was removed.
The pressure involved is so high, the most microscopic imperfection will cause a leak.
 
Took it for its WOF (MOT).

Passed with flying colours (again) :D

I'm sure the 23 year old girl passes so frequently due to the diligent maintenance I perform prior to taking it for its test. For example, for this test I cleaned all the windows :cool:

Might also be due to the fact its a bloody good car. ;)

Also took the trailer along for its WOF, which it also passed. So well happy.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I'm sure the 23 year old girl passes so frequently due to the diligent maintenance I perform prior to taking it for its test. For example, for this test I cleaned all the windows :cool:
Click to expand...

That counts for sure. I'm also over maintaining my old cars and they typically pass our yearly inspection we have to do here in Finland with clean papers. Just had both FL1 and D2 inspected in a couple of weeks.
 
Stance said:
That counts for sure. I'm also over maintaining my old cars and they typically pass our yearly inspection we have to do here in Finland with clean papers. Just had both FL1 and D2 inspected in a couple of weeks.
Click to expand...
Do they put salt on the road there, or do people use winter tyres and learn how to drive properly in winter?
 
Nodge68 said:
Do they put salt on the road there, or do people use winter tyres and learn how to drive properly in winter?
Click to expand...
Both. Lot's of salt on the main roads. Northern Finland has very arctic winters, so there they can't use that much salt (it works only around 0 degrees) but here in southern Finland it is used excessively unfortunately.

It is mandatory to use winter tyres here and of course we are used to drive in real winter conditions. Usually we get a lot of snow between December and March. Temperatures are between 0 and -30 during winter season.
 
A number of years ago, a little critter decided it would be fun to rip a hole in my spare wheel cover...

Kea_4.jpg


Over the years this little hole turned into a tear and ultimately the cover was all but falling off.

A fine upstanding member of the LZ community noticed this and sent me through a replacement cover! It arrived today and duly fitted :D

Spare_Wheel_Cover.jpg


We'll see what the Keas, which are the most fantastic of animals, make of this one!
 
GrumpyGel said:
A number of years ago, a little critter decided it would be fun to rip a hole in my spare wheel cover...

View attachment 271233

Over the years this little hole turned into a tear and ultimately the cover was all but falling off.

A fine upstanding member of the LZ community noticed this and sent me through a replacement cover! It arrived today and duly fitted :D

View attachment 271234

We'll see what the Keas, which are the most fantastic of animals, make of this one!
Click to expand...
I call BS here!!!! :eek:

There's never been of a fine upstanding member of LZ. :p
 
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