andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Decided to give my x Reg V6 a stay of execution and bought a belt and pulley set.
Just got to work out how to do it now. Have read Nodge's guide, thanks.
May drop engine and box and clean it all up while out, easier to do belts then.
Just got to work out how to do it now. Have read Nodge's guide, thanks.
May drop engine and box and clean it all up while out, easier to do belts then.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately my guide is a bit messed up now Andy, as the hosting site has managed to delete some images, and I've lost my log in details too, which doesn't help.
As you have a lift, it would be really easy to drop the whole subframe, with everything attached, except for the AC compressor, which you can tie up out the way.
Doing the belts with the engine out, is a 30 minute job, but doing them in the vehicle takes some hours, as access is really restricted. If you need any guidance, give me a shout, as I've done a few KV6 belts over the years.
I've got the mother in law's V6 in bits at the moment, as I found the thermostat was leaking, which caused the temperature sensor to corrode and fail.
Although I fixed the leaking PS pipe easy enough.
saxavordian
Well-Known Member
Just paid my insurance for the car with Adrian Flux for the year. Donations are welcome
Exhaust rear box fitted, and thought I was ready wash the vehicle and get MOT’d later this week, and a new problem occurs. Blue smoke bellows anytime the accelerator goes 2k or more.
Disconnected the 90 degree elbow tube to the ERG valve as suggested in one of the posts on this topic, to take the crankcase breather out the circuit. It’s still happening though. So hoping now that with the vehicle having sat largely idle for almost a year, just being started and moved around once a month or so, I’ve now not got a serious problem with oil leaking in the engine, with the valve seals or pistons.
Cotton breather filter was changed along with the oil only a couple of thousand miles before she was rested last year, but I’ve ordered a new one to now fit just in case, to completely rule that out. But probably won’t help if disconnecting the elbow, removes it from the circuit. Other than that, I guess it’s have a go at cleaning the intercooler, which has probably got 120k miles of grot sitting in it. The EGR valve and inlet manifold was cleaned about 20k miles ago, when I fitted silicon hoses.
No sign of any smoke previously, other than a small puff on startup from cold. Don’t you just love it when you think you’re done with the immediate jobs, and something new comes along to spoil the fun.
Disconnected the 90 degree elbow tube to the ERG valve as suggested in one of the posts on this topic, to take the crankcase breather out the circuit. It’s still happening though. So hoping now that with the vehicle having sat largely idle for almost a year, just being started and moved around once a month or so, I’ve now not got a serious problem with oil leaking in the engine, with the valve seals or pistons.
Cotton breather filter was changed along with the oil only a couple of thousand miles before she was rested last year, but I’ve ordered a new one to now fit just in case, to completely rule that out. But probably won’t help if disconnecting the elbow, removes it from the circuit. Other than that, I guess it’s have a go at cleaning the intercooler, which has probably got 120k miles of grot sitting in it. The EGR valve and inlet manifold was cleaned about 20k miles ago, when I fitted silicon hoses.
No sign of any smoke previously, other than a small puff on startup from cold. Don’t you just love it when you think you’re done with the immediate jobs, and something new comes along to spoil the fun.
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Always a painful day. At least they didn’t put up road tax this year, as far as I know.Just paid my insurance for the car with Adrian Flux for the year. Donations are welcome
saxavordian
Well-Known Member
Given way my year starting I wouldn't put it pass them. I am seriously considering starting a just giving page to keep the landy upkeep.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Changed the offside rear indicator bulb that failed this morning. That's the first non headlight bulb that's gone since I bought the car, in February 2013!
Wet Cubbyhole
Member
Finished scratting all the rust off the undercarriage. It’s been a monumental task on a cold, sometimes damp concrete floor but it’s kept me occupied whilst the pubs are shut. For anyone interested I used a small pecker hammer to descale the flaky stuff then a cordless 4inch grinder with an Abracs 100mm knotted wire brush for grinding the large areas and a cordless drill with multiple sized wire brush attachments for intricate areas. I did not remove the existing rubbery coating unless rust had blown it.
I removed the exhaust, dropped both subframes and got the vehicle 60cm up on axle stands. Best tool was the head torch. Lesson learnt is wear safety goggles when pecking,
I removed the exhaust, dropped both subframes and got the vehicle 60cm up on axle stands. Best tool was the head torch. Lesson learnt is wear safety goggles when pecking,
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Well done, that sounds like a lot of work.
I know people say POR15 is the best paint for steel but it's expensive. I've found Rustoleom is very good, certainly much better than Hammerite.
What are you planning to use?
Wet Cubbyhole
Member
Will use a rust converter first and then a 2 part epoxy mastic both supplied by Rustbuster. Need temps to be at least 10 degrees for the converter to work and it’s not that warm yet!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Do you know are there good rust converters and not so good?
I've used Hammerite rust converter a few times prior to painting with etch primer and top coat on my van but the rust has reappeared.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Nothing on the Freelander except drive him. I've spent too much time on other projects, like the new bathroom and the wife's 500 Sport, which decided to bust it's radiator last weekend.
Then last night, we made a snap purchase of a new project for the wife, as the 500 Sport will be going to our eldest daughter, so it's looking like the Freelander is going to get neglected again.
At least the new project doesn't need the same amount of work that the FL2 needed, but unfortunately it's not an LR, it's a VW.
Then last night, we made a snap purchase of a new project for the wife, as the 500 Sport will be going to our eldest daughter, so it's looking like the Freelander is going to get neglected again.
At least the new project doesn't need the same amount of work that the FL2 needed, but unfortunately it's not an LR, it's a VW.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Never seen one of those before!Nothing on the Freelander except drive him. I've spent too much time on other projects, like the new bathroom and the wife's 500 Sport, which decided to bust it's radiator last weekend.
Then last night, we made a snap purchase of a new project for the wife, as the 500 Sport will be going to our eldest daughter, so it's looking like the Freelander is going to get neglected again.
At least the new project doesn't need the same amount of work that the FL2 needed, but unfortunately it's not an LR, it's a VW.
View attachment 233622
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Don't forget to repair...
- Nearside Front Outer Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot severely deteriorated (6.1.7 (g) (i))
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It is. And now she's wondering how she's going to transport her kayak on it?
She has a kayak roof rack for her 500, but an Eos can't take a roof rack.
I suppose she's going to want to use the Freelander for that duty now.Yes it's on the 'to do' list although it looked absolutely fine to me on a quick inspection. I've definitely got the front brakes to sort, as the NS is sticking quite badly, badly enough to have the rotor glowing dull red when I go it home.
Other than the brake, it drives really nicely, and is seriously fast.
