Oh that's a nice job!! Prepare to loose your knuckles.
What spec is it and is the engine sound?

I'm hoping to just swap the leaking pipe, which I'm going to scavenge from the replacement rack. ;)

It's an ES with optional cruise control, and the engine is sweet, or it will be once I've given it a once over, and changed the oil, and the faulty CTS.
 
Fitted my newly recovered steering wheel. I was very pleased, until I discovered that the nearside rear window has packed in, leaving me with two annoying little elctrical jobs with my PDC system currently in error mode.
 
Indeed. There I was all happy and proud of a good achievement, only to be disappointed. Pride comes before a fall though.
If it's any consolation, my FL2 PDC doesn't work either. It simply beeps when I first turn on the ignition, the nothing other than flashing the little LED on the switch, when I select reverse.
I suspect I need to replace the PDC module, but is its buried under the LR rear boot panel, I'll leave it till the weather is warmer. The misfire is more important to sort, which I'll be doing, in-between the bathroom refit.

By the way. Are you still wanting the temperature display mirror, as I found it last weekend?
 
If it's any consolation, my FL2 PDC doesn't work either. It simply beeps when I first turn on the ignition, the nothing other than flashing the little LED on the switch, when I select reverse.
I suspect I need to replace the PDC module, but is its buried under the LR rear boot panel, I'll leave it till the weather is warmer. The misfire is more important to sort, which I'll be doing, in-between the bathroom refit.

By the way. Are you still wanting the temperature display mirror, as I found it last weekend?

I wonder if the module is duff on mine too as all the sensors are clicking away. I don't suppose you know where it is on the FL1 do you? I couldn't find it on Rave.

RE the mirror. Yes, I'm keen. I'll pm you.
 
Rebuilt the luggage cover - I ran over it after leaving it out to get something in. Twang could be a word, i stripped it down to get the metal part off to re-shape as i flattened it a bit. sort of back to the right shape, and after an hour of a few choice words getting the spring rewound and tension back in to the cover, all works as it should. took the shine off getting a fresh MOT..
 
Getting in the car after work, I noticed the mileage has reached 120,000.
20210303_195209.jpg
 
Found and ordered some chrome side bars.
Looks like I'm going to be busy when the weather improves:

1) Fit bull bars and wire in spots
2) Fit side bars
3) Fit snorkel (yes, I need it)
4) Re-colour the leather heated front seats I found and fit them
5) Fit glass panels and soft roof (sounds simple but there are issues)
6) Touch up the paintwork and make it pretty

I'm sure there will be more by then. Maybe updated induction pipes?
 
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That has now reduced the reliability to LR standards!!!
Hi. New LR TV owner. Love it but need to sort a few things. It's missing a remote control and the guy I bought it from said he'd got rid of it to save electricity. Now I'd like to get it up and running again and I've seen replacement remotes on ebay pretty cheap. Anything I should look out for? I've heard they take AA batteries but I wondered if I could run it on AAA? Also, I'm after a portable aerial for it. Should I get one of those little round ones or the ones with telescopic sections? What size do most people run their's with? There won't be a great deal of use, mostly Cebeebies at the weekends. Any help appreciated.

TIA
 
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First thing I'd do is to remove all the viscous coils to save electricity. Buy matching batteries, all terrain low profile batteries are best. Check when you turn it on the screen drops about an inch and drill a hole in the bottom to let the damp out.

If it does go wrong check all the screws in the coil cans are screwed in nice and tight with an impact driver. On reflection it looks a bit new to have coil cans, looks like the TV2 not the TV1 in which case you'll need a first class degree in computer science and approx £200,000 worth or diagnostic equipment just to upgrade the audio.

Enjoy the new acquisition. :D
 
First thing I'd do is to remove all the viscous coils to save electricity. Buy matching batteries, all terrain low profile batteries are best. Check when you turn it on the screen drops about an inch and drill a hole in the bottom to let the damp out.

If it does go wrong check all the screws in the coil cans are screwed in nice and tight with an impact driver. On reflection it looks a bit new to have coil cans, looks like the TV2 not the TV1 in which case you'll need a first class degree in computer science and approx £200,000 worth or diagnostic equipment just to upgrade the audio.

Enjoy the new acquisition. :D
Viscous coils? sorry, I'm new to this. where can I find those? It is the TV1 but the late model one. Also, I do have two decent batteries lying around. Can I not just use those and buy one new one?
 

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