Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Bought it !
Actually managed to jump start it eventually - but now my Disco bonnet won't stay shut!
...and I'm buying a Defender! What am I thinking?
Discovered I'd left the ignition on for a few days.
Also discovered my Disco hasn't got enough guts to jump start it in tickover - but I can't be in both at once!
I guess I'll just take the battery out and charge it!
Or put a brick on the go pedal ...
ian mitchell
Well-Known Member
took the boot microswitch out to find out if there was water ingress, it keeps unlocking itself.
no water at all but boot still unlocks itself .not only that but it actually opens the boot when you are driving.
no water at all but boot still unlocks itself
.not only that but it actually opens the boot when you are driving.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
There probably a mechanical issue with the lock assembly, as the CCU disables the rear door completely, when moving at more the 5 MPH.
ian mitchell
Well-Known Member
thanks for that nodge will look into that when i get the chance again.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Changed the OSR indicator bulb a few days ago. Yesterday, it stopped working again. I've just tried another new bulb and that lasted five minutes. Something is not right here I thought.
I have just tested the new bulb, and that is not blown. Checked the terminals on the loom connector to the bulb holder for voltage - voltage present. Checked the contacts in the bulb holder - voltage present. Tried adjusting the contacts in the bulb holder to no avail. Humph.
Looks like I'll be messing about with the multimeter this evening.
I have just tested the new bulb, and that is not blown. Checked the terminals on the loom connector to the bulb holder for voltage - voltage present. Checked the contacts in the bulb holder - voltage present. Tried adjusting the contacts in the bulb holder to no avail. Humph.
Looks like I'll be messing about with the multimeter this evening.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I had the same symptoms.
I traced it down to a contact in the lamp housing that the bulb holder connects to being burnt out - little square of metal burnt away. Its very difficult seeing up there through the access hole in the wheel arch. I poked a camera up there and took loads of pics to try and see what was up. The 'best' pic I got is below.
I had to remove the bumper so I could remove the lamp. I then filled the burnt out hole with solder. It miraculously held for quite a long time - maybe a year - before it went again. When it went again, I had the parts car, so swapped the lamps over from that.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Finished stripping useful goodies off the parts cars to make space for..... Another few!?!
If anyone wants a 3 door shell or even two of them (for free) give me a shout before they get weighed in. Nothing much left on them.
If anyone wants a 3 door shell or even two of them (for free) give me a shout before they get weighed in. Nothing much left on them.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
I've just had a check. It seems there is continuity between the live and earth in the bulb holder connector. I guess I'm looking for a chafed bit of wire?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Not necessarily. All that means is the bulb on the other side is giving a low resistance path for you meter.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Tonight I started getting the fuel system of the V6 back together, as the new fuel rail O rings arrived.
An hour or so later, I had the engine assembled enough to be able to test start the engine, which it did promptly.
Now just need to do loads of cooling system bleeding, and hopefully it'll be ready for sale.
Now just need to do loads of cooling system bleeding, and hopefully it'll be ready for sale.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Are the springs still keeping the handle down? It's pretty common for them to rust away.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Yeah, as usual, you're spot on. After a bit of head scratching and hunting around for dodgy connections and a decent earth point I went back to basics. Took apart the bulb holder and bent the outer contact inwards a bit and SUCCESS!Not necessarily. All that means is the bulb on the other side is giving a low resistance path for you meter.
I miss that engine, in a masochistic kind of way.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Working on it has been brining back fond memories of when I rebuilt the top end, and fitted it into this very vehicle, all the way back in 2012.
It always amazes me as to how quickly it starts, now it's had some TLC, considering it wouldn't start without a sniff of easy start when I bought it home.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Got the V6 cooling system bleeding done, then discovered a fuel leak from the even (rear) bank fuel rail end cap.
So I had to strip the rear rail off, so I could check and re-seat the rail O rings, and reassemble the engine again, this no fuel leak was evident. Let's hope it stays that way, as there's someone coming to look at it tomorrow.
I also took delivery of this.
It's a very low (8900) miles cylinder head for my FL2, which is showing absolutely zero wear on the valve gear.
Unfortunately it's 8 months too late, so I'll have to get the engine apart for the second time in a year, but once it's on, at least I'll have a nice quiet (no tappet noise) and hopefully slightly less lumpy running FL2.
So I had to strip the rear rail off, so I could check and re-seat the rail O rings, and reassemble the engine again, this no fuel leak was evident.
Let's hope it stays that way, as there's someone coming to look at it tomorrow.I also took delivery of this.
It's a very low (8900) miles cylinder head for my FL2, which is showing absolutely zero wear on the valve gear.
Unfortunately it's 8 months too late, so I'll have to get the engine apart for the second time in a year
, but once it's on, at least I'll have a nice quiet (no tappet noise) and hopefully slightly less lumpy running FL2.
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