Hi. New LR TV owner. Love it but need to sort a few things. It's missing a remote control and the guy I bought it from said he'd got rid of it to save electricity. Now I'd like to get it up and running again and I've seen replacement remotes on ebay pretty cheap. Anything I should look out for? I've heard they take AA batteries but I wondered if I could run it on AAA? Also, I'm after a portable aerial for it. Should I get one of those little round ones or the ones with telescopic sections? What size do most people run their's with? There won't be a great deal of use, mostly Cebeebies at the weekends. Any help appreciated.

TIA

First thing I'd do is to remove all the viscous coils to save electricity. Buy matching batteries, all terrain low profile batteries are best. Check when you turn it on the screen drops about an inch and drill a hole in the bottom to let the damp out.

If it does go wrong check all the screws in the coil cans are screwed in nice and tight with an impact driver. On reflection it looks a bit new to have coil cans, looks like the TV2 not the TV1 in which case you'll need a first class degree in computer science and approx £200,000 worth or diagnostic equipment just to upgrade the audio.

Enjoy the new acquisition. :D

Viscous coils? sorry, I'm new to this. where can I find those? It is the TV1 but the late model one. Also, I do have two decent batteries lying around. Can I not just use those and buy one new one?

BRILLIANT!!!
 
Noticed a screw in the front right tyre when I got home from work. :mad:
Dang - not so good, is it repairable or nacked?

Kicked it hard
Replaced battery
And cut the burnt out ptc holder out
PTC - Evil thing... There is a powerfeed to that relay I'd also recommned you remove. Behind the battery, under the fuse box, bolted to the innerwing is an 80A fuseable link, this is the supply to the PTC relay in the engine bay, that feeds that damned melty fusebox. If you've got a melted PTC fusebox, and you've cut it out, you've got 80A potentially looking for a shortcut back to the battery. The wire comes up from the innerwing, in a black corrugated flexible conduit and is an eyelet directly on the positive battery clamp. I'd say removing that has to be a priority for safety.
 
Dang - not so good, is it repairable or nacked?

Repairable, thankfully, just bloody annoying, and something I can do without just now.:mad: I suspect it's only just got picked up, as screw head isn't worn, and it's the second identical screw I've found in this vehicle, but the first time it didn't go through, not so lucky this time though. :(
 
Had one of those last week in the shopping trolley ... :mad:
I was greeted with this when I went outside. :(
20210306_102041.jpg
 
Replaced plastic roof panels with glass.
Also fitted camber bolts although they don't seem to make any difference. I'm wondering if the control arm is so soft the cam on the bolt is just munging into it rather than moving it.
 
Repairable, thankfully, just bloody annoying, and something I can do without just now.:mad: I suspect it's only just got picked up, as screw head isn't worn, and it's the second identical screw I've found in this vehicle, but the first time it didn't go through, not so lucky this time though. :(
Sounds like it could be from your road. I had similar once and walked down the road. Found about 20 screws scattered by window fitters. Might be worth a quick look.
 
Dang - not so good, is it repairable or nacked?


PTC - Evil thing... There is a powerfeed to that relay I'd also recommned you remove. Behind the battery, under the fuse box, bolted to the innerwing is an 80A fuseable link, this is the supply to the PTC relay in the engine bay, that feeds that damned melty fusebox. If you've got a melted PTC fusebox, and you've cut it out, you've got 80A potentially looking for a shortcut back to the battery. The wire comes up from the innerwing, in a black corrugated flexible conduit and is an eyelet directly on the positive battery clamp. I'd say removing that has to be a priority for safety.
Totally burnt out just a crispy plug
 
Dang - not so good, is it repairable or nacked?


PTC - Evil thing... There is a powerfeed to that relay I'd also recommned you remove. Behind the battery, under the fuse box, bolted to the innerwing is an 80A fuseable link, this is the supply to the PTC relay in the engine bay, that feeds that damned melty fusebox. If you've got a melted PTC fusebox, and you've cut it out, you've got 80A potentially looking for a shortcut back to the battery. The wire comes up from the innerwing, in a black corrugated flexible conduit and is an eyelet directly on the positive battery clamp. I'd say removing that has to be a priority for safety.
Great thank you will get that sorted tomorrow
 
Reading the posts about the PTC problems, looks like that is another job to add to my list to check and sort.

In the meantime, after picking up some new GKN VCU bearing mounts last week from Austin at Bell Engineering, spent a couple of hours crawling under the vehicle today, getting the propshaft refitted. All done. Nearly ready take it for an MOT and get it un-SORN.

Why is it though whenever crawling around under the vehicle for any decent length of time, you still find yourself crunching bits in your mouth a couple of hours later. Or maybe it’s just me.
 
Eating rusty roughage comes with the jobs I am afraid!!

Could be another use for an NHS mask!!

Good point. So used to wearing these now, it wouldn’t seem too much issue. Especially with the rust maintenance job I’m going to have to do on and around the rear subframe when the warmer weather comes.
 
Totally burnt out just a crispy plug
When mine "went", I'd left the vehicle ticking over to heat up, it might have went a little bit further than I planned on it heating it up, like electrical fire hot. Ten minutes after start up, when I went back to it, the smoke eminating from the engine bay shrouded the hippo in a layer of smoke so thick it looked like my house was on fire. My PTC system was a charred remnant of a fusebox and burnt twigs of oxidised coper and burnt plastic insulation's sooty ash.

TLDR of the system is that a switch embedded in the heater controls energises the first relay, which is in the cabin. This first relay sends power from the fuel pump as a signal to the second relay which is on the bulkhead of the engine bay. Fuel pump signal and low temperature value energises the second relay which takes power from the eyelet I mentioned, splits it into 3 lines, each fused at that burnt plug fusebox. From there it sends power back into the cabin to the heater elements in the heater matrix blower box.tbe control side is fine left as is, but you don't want an 80amp supply from that relay hanging about.
 
When mine "went", I'd left the vehicle ticking over to heat up, it might have went a little bit further than I planned on it heating it up, like electrical fire hot. Ten minutes after start up, when I went back to it, the smoke eminating from the engine bay shrouded the hippo in a layer of smoke so thick it looked like my house was on fire. My PTC system was a charred remnant of a fusebox and burnt twigs of oxidised coper and burnt plastic insulation's sooty ash.

TLDR of the system is that a switch embedded in the heater controls energises the first relay, which is in the cabin. This first relay sends power from the fuel pump as a signal to the second relay which is on the bulkhead of the engine bay. Fuel pump signal and low temperature value energises the second relay which takes power from the eyelet I mentioned, splits it into 3 lines, each fused at that burnt plug fusebox. From there it sends power back into the cabin to the heater elements in the heater matrix blower box.tbe control side is fine left as is, but you don't want an 80amp supply from that relay hanging about.
Wow there a night mate can’t get it strted now after battery change but I will sort that fuse today
 
Used it to jump start the missus's Peugeot.
Just waiting for the call to pick her up cos it won't start again!
 
Got to test the speed of the cold weather pack. I was surprised at just how fast the Program Defrost (HFS coupled with the PCT) works to clear the a frosted screen.
This picture was taken 30 seconds after starting the engine, and pressing the Defrost button.
20210309_080623.jpg

This second picture was taken 30 seconds after the first picture.
20210309_080643.jpg

It shows a just how quickly the window cleared, which by FL1 standards, is really fast. :)
 

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