First thing I'd do is to remove all the viscous coils to save electricity. Buy matching batteries, all terrain low profile batteries are best. Check when you turn it on the screen drops about an inch and drill a hole in the bottom to let the damp out.
If it does go wrong check all the screws in the coil cans are screwed in nice and tight with an impact driver. On reflection it looks a bit new to have coil cans, looks like the TV2 not the TV1 in which case you'll need a first class degree in computer science and approx £200,000 worth or diagnostic equipment just to upgrade the audio.
Enjoy the new acquisition.
BRILLIANT!!!
Dang - not so good, is it repairable or nacked?Noticed a screw in the front right tyre when I got home from work.
PTC - Evil thing... There is a powerfeed to that relay I'd also recommned you remove. Behind the battery, under the fuse box, bolted to the innerwing is an 80A fuseable link, this is the supply to the PTC relay in the engine bay, that feeds that damned melty fusebox. If you've got a melted PTC fusebox, and you've cut it out, you've got 80A potentially looking for a shortcut back to the battery. The wire comes up from the innerwing, in a black corrugated flexible conduit and is an eyelet directly on the positive battery clamp. I'd say removing that has to be a priority for safety.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Repairable, thankfully, just bloody annoying, and something I can do without just now.
I suspect it's only just got picked up, as screw head isn't worn, and it's the second identical screw I've found in this vehicle, but the first time it didn't go through, not so lucky this time though. 
Noticed a screw in the front right tyre when I got home from work.
Had one of those last week in the shopping trolley ...
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I was greeted with this when I went outside.Had one of those last week in the shopping trolley ...
I was greeted with this when I went outside.
Mine still had a bit of roofing felt attached, that went flap, flap, flap and alerted me to it's presence ... only leaked air when I wobbled it tho ...
Good job I have a set of fix-it's ...
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Sounds like it could be from your road. I had similar once and walked down the road. Found about 20 screws scattered by window fitters. Might be worth a quick look.Repairable, thankfully, just bloody annoying, and something I can do without just now.
Skeeno48
Member
Totally burnt out just a crispy plug
Skeeno48
Member
Great thank you will get that sorted tomorrow
Reading the posts about the PTC problems, looks like that is another job to add to my list to check and sort.
In the meantime, after picking up some new GKN VCU bearing mounts last week from Austin at Bell Engineering, spent a couple of hours crawling under the vehicle today, getting the propshaft refitted. All done. Nearly ready take it for an MOT and get it un-SORN.
Why is it though whenever crawling around under the vehicle for any decent length of time, you still find yourself crunching bits in your mouth a couple of hours later. Or maybe it’s just me.
In the meantime, after picking up some new GKN VCU bearing mounts last week from Austin at Bell Engineering, spent a couple of hours crawling under the vehicle today, getting the propshaft refitted. All done. Nearly ready take it for an MOT and get it un-SORN.
Why is it though whenever crawling around under the vehicle for any decent length of time, you still find yourself crunching bits in your mouth a couple of hours later. Or maybe it’s just me.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Eating rusty roughage comes with the jobs I am afraid!!
Could be another use for an NHS mask!!
Could be another use for an NHS mask!!
Good point. So used to wearing these now, it wouldn’t seem too much issue. Especially with the rust maintenance job I’m going to have to do on and around the rear subframe when the warmer weather comes.
When mine "went", I'd left the vehicle ticking over to heat up, it might have went a little bit further than I planned on it heating it up, like electrical fire hot. Ten minutes after start up, when I went back to it, the smoke eminating from the engine bay shrouded the hippo in a layer of smoke so thick it looked like my house was on fire. My PTC system was a charred remnant of a fusebox and burnt twigs of oxidised coper and burnt plastic insulation's sooty ash.
TLDR of the system is that a switch embedded in the heater controls energises the first relay, which is in the cabin. This first relay sends power from the fuel pump as a signal to the second relay which is on the bulkhead of the engine bay. Fuel pump signal and low temperature value energises the second relay which takes power from the eyelet I mentioned, splits it into 3 lines, each fused at that burnt plug fusebox. From there it sends power back into the cabin to the heater elements in the heater matrix blower box.tbe control side is fine left as is, but you don't want an 80amp supply from that relay hanging about.
Think of it as an iron supplement, at least you won't have to worry about anemia...
Skeeno48
Member
Wow there a night mate can’t get it strted now after battery change but I will sort that fuse today
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Got to test the speed of the cold weather pack. I was surprised at just how fast the Program Defrost (HFS coupled with the PCT) works to clear the a frosted screen.
This picture was taken 30 seconds after starting the engine, and pressing the Defrost button.
This second picture was taken 30 seconds after the first picture.
It shows a just how quickly the window cleared, which by FL1 standards, is really fast.
This picture was taken 30 seconds after starting the engine, and pressing the Defrost button.
This second picture was taken 30 seconds after the first picture.
It shows a just how quickly the window cleared, which by FL1 standards, is really fast.
