Alibro
Well-Known Member
LOL, someone else noseying at the MOT history.
Nice looking car Nodge, Mileage looks 100% going by the history.
I'm sure you'll have it knocked into shape in no time.
Nice looking car Nodge, Mileage looks 100% going by the history.
I'm sure you'll have it knocked into shape in no time.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
LOL, someone else noseying at the MOT history.
Nice looking car Nodge, Mileage looks 100% going by the history.
I'm sure you'll have it knocked into shape in no time.
It'll be a running restoration Ali, although it's too good for a restoration really.
I always check MOT history before I look at a vehicle, and based on what I read, and what I see, I then decide the price I'm happy paying, or walk away.
Unfortunately in the Southwest, cars are often up to twice as expensive as an equivalent vehicle in the Midlands. I finally paid £2050 for this one, which was up for an asking price of £2600. In my book, it needs too much work for the full asking price, but I'm happy with what I paid. Unlike my FL2 purchase last summer, this one has an engine that runs absolutely beautifully, which makes a refreshing change.
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puddlejumper
Active Member
54plate Td4 S
Bought it last week for £300, today I did the clutch master cylinder as the pedal was on the floor. Also fitted a replacement alternator, EGR delete, full service and filters (swapped the oil breather for a separator), new serpentine belt and new wipers. Sorted the airbag light by spraying contact cleaner into the underwear connectors. Tomorrow will be new rear brakes then MOT early next week, properly pleased with it.
Bought it last week for £300, today I did the clutch master cylinder as the pedal was on the floor. Also fitted a replacement alternator, EGR delete, full service and filters (swapped the oil breather for a separator), new serpentine belt and new wipers. Sorted the airbag light by spraying contact cleaner into the underwear connectors. Tomorrow will be new rear brakes then MOT early next week, properly pleased with it.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Not heard of those connectors, but don't knock it if it worked.
Good. They have a certain charm.
Fitted my side bars.
Unpacked them to find they were non-genuine, so not as advertised
Decided to fit them anyway to save the pallava of returning them.
Had to re-drill a few holes due to some welding.
Took it for a drive after, MIL came one for a few seconds, then it went out, then the 3 amigos appeared!
Ah well I was asking for more stuff to do I guess...
Unpacked them to find they were non-genuine, so not as advertised
Decided to fit them anyway to save the pallava of returning them.
Had to re-drill a few holes due to some welding.
Took it for a drive after, MIL came one for a few seconds, then it went out, then the 3 amigos appeared!
Ah well I was asking for more stuff to do I guess...
Wet Cubbyhole
Member
Repaired drivers door lock actuator.
Process: Removed and stripped the actuator, replaced one of the tiny motors with a new one from China, reassembled and re-fitted, removed it again (as the polarity meant it opened when it should close and vice versa), switched the polarity around then refitted.
Total cost £11 (as opposed to £120) and only 397 man hours!
Process: Removed and stripped the actuator, replaced one of the tiny motors with a new one from China, reassembled and re-fitted, removed it again (as the polarity meant it opened when it should close and vice versa), switched the polarity around then refitted.
Total cost £11 (as opposed to £120) and only 397 man hours!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Excellent use of your time.
Last time I bought a used one off eBay for around £30 and took the used part lottery. Mine worked too but nowhere near the same fun.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Very much my story of FL1 ownership. Do a job, feel a sense of satisfaction, then summat else comes along. All part of the fun.Fitted my side bars.
Unpacked them to find they were non-genuine, so not as advertised
Decided to fit them anyway to save the pallava of returning them.
Had to re-drill a few holes due to some welding.
Took it for a drive after, MIL came one for a few seconds, then it went out, then the 3 amigos appeared!
Ah well I was asking for more stuff to do I guess...
Plugged-in the Hawkeye to see what the MIL is all about.
P1E30 Boost control positive governor deviation (boost pressure too low)
P1255 Fuel low pressure sensor. Signal out of range.
I suppose the P1E30 could be a hose. I have suspected for a while the one coming out (or in?) the turbo has a small split.
The P1255 one though - seems like that can only be the sensor, or could it be the same thing somehow?
(It has a fairly new low pressure FP and BCV)
Also, it seems I need a grey adapter (BA5077) to read my ABS ECU, which is £100 on Ebay :O
Will be googling for that but any ideas where to get one otherwise?
P1E30 Boost control positive governor deviation (boost pressure too low)
P1255 Fuel low pressure sensor. Signal out of range.
I suppose the P1E30 could be a hose. I have suspected for a while the one coming out (or in?) the turbo has a small split.
The P1255 one though - seems like that can only be the sensor, or could it be the same thing somehow?
(It has a fairly new low pressure FP and BCV)
Also, it seems I need a grey adapter (BA5077) to read my ABS ECU, which is £100 on Ebay :O
Will be googling for that but any ideas where to get one otherwise?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Why not just buy a used Icarsoft I930 from Ebay. It's reads most FL1 modules as well as modules on all other LRs.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203313480613
I had one of them Couldn't get it to work so I sent it back.Why not just buy a used Icarsoft I930 from Ebay. It's reads most FL1 modules as well as modules on all other LRs.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203313480613
Would prefer to have one device for all my LRs but maybe I'll give it another go if I can't find a cheaper adapter.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Never had a problem with my I930 on any LR, with the exception of the TCM on my FL1, which it didn't see.
I've found it very reliable, and definitely worth the small outlay.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
I could split mine open so you can make yer own from a blank dongle. Just wire the correct pins.
That's a great offer thanks, but if that's all there is to it, would it be less destructive to get the pinouts using a multimeter?
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Yes. Just not sure if theres anything other than a few wires inside. Cracking it open isn't a problem. Bearmach stopped selling them but they're back a 65 sovs each now.
Special order though, so they may not be able to get them.
If you could have a look I'd be grateful. Looks like the connectors are easy to find. Thanks!
[Edit]
Don't worry I managed to find one, thanks
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I went with the cheaper skankier option, I grabbed a discovery jack, which is a telescopic bottle jack
