Europa486
Well-Known Member
On the A pillar there is a grommet just under the rear of the front wings , one of mine had gone missing
So allowed water into the footwell, so definitely worth checking, the drain on the A pillar if blocked again let’s water into the footwell, also the inner wing at the rear can leak if the seam sealer has perished,
You are so right! They leak like a sieve,
My main culprits where the window rubber seals, all had perished and were leaking so created corrosion to the floors with the alpine lights being the worst,
Feathers McGraw
Well-Known Member
New genuine xyz switch. Not as bad ad I thought even without taking the exhaust off.
Changed the D3 compressor, compressor bracket and mount, all hardware, bolts, chimney nuts, washers etc gave the chassis rails a clean over as well. Chimney nuts and bolts greased up for winter
When I cut the 8mm and 10mm airlines I used 90 degree elbows instead of inline push fit connectors for a nicer finish
The drier cap had a crack between the airline connections that was causing an issue, I'll rebuild that now as a spare
When I cut the 8mm and 10mm airlines I used 90 degree elbows instead of inline push fit connectors for a nicer finish
The drier cap had a crack between the airline connections that was causing an issue, I'll rebuild that now as a spare
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
Put it up for sale 
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-3-xs-tdv6.363794/
still staying in brand I think unless something really special catches my eye
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-3-xs-tdv6.363794/
still staying in brand I think unless something really special catches my eye
Went to replace the towbar socket on the D1 & opened up the rear compartment to unplug
the connector to the socket to find someone has hard wired the socket to the lights & the
original plug with the cap still on it & the bung still in the floor
popped the bung out new wiring in job jobbed
the connector to the socket to find someone has hard wired the socket to the lights & the
original plug with the cap still on it & the bung still in the floor
popped the bung out new wiring in job jobbed
I think that A-Pillar drain may be a suspect. I'll add it to my list of possibles .
I got a nice alloy cap for my drier when I rebuilt it, from X8R. to make sure I didn't suffer with that problem in future.
J
So after re-sealing both sunroofs I decided to do the roof bar gskts. whilst the headlining was out. Got a set of gskts(pattern as LR in their wisdom have discontinued the genuine ones) so after removing the r/bars & cleaning round the fitting points I discovered I'd been sent two n/s rear gskts.(all four are different) so I couldn't refit the o/s bar . Having had to drill the rivets out of the air con ducting so I could undo the rear r/bar fixing. When I wanted to refit the ducting & not having a rivet gun I knocked the metal centre out of what was left of the rivet & used a no6 (3.5mm) x 10 self tapper to secure the ducting.
. Having had to drill the rivets out of the air con ducting so I could undo the rear r/bar fixing. When I wanted to refit the ducting & not having a rivet gun I knocked the metal centre out of what was left of the rivet & used a no6 (3.5mm) x 10 self tapper to secure the ducting. 
Intestinalworm
Well-Known Member
Nothing big - removed MAF, MAP and IAT (think that's what it's called - temp sensor in airbox) and cleaned them all thoroughly with MAF cleaner. Checked front pads - 4mm thick so will change shortly (spec says min thickness = 2mm). Bought TRW pads (front and rear set) for $50 (delivered) from Repco (clearance stock) - happy with that deal; looks like I'll have to install the pads soon.
Europa486
Well-Known Member
Quite a busy week, fitted new polyurethane bushes to the panhard rod with new bolts/ Nuts,
Fitted front mud flaps with substantial aluminium angle suitably coated with tiger seal were bolted to floor
Using stainless steel nuts and bolts,
Finished off the rear lights in the bumper with proper Land Rover bulb holders that don’t short out when you put the bulb in like the ****part does,
Fitted front mud flaps with substantial aluminium angle suitably coated with tiger seal were bolted to floor
Using stainless steel nuts and bolts,
Finished off the rear lights in the bumper with proper Land Rover bulb holders that don’t short out when you put the bulb in like the ****part does,
FlyingPete
Well-Known Member
Finished refitting the headlining which I stripped and painted last week, and removed and resealed the sunroofs to the body while it was down.
This morning the rusty boot floor was chopped out in preparation for the new one. The arches are still sound but the floor panels either side are a bit crispy, so I'll make up a couple ofcardboard templates and replace with good metal before the floor goes back in.
This morning the rusty boot floor was chopped out in preparation for the new one. The arches are still sound but the floor panels either side are a bit crispy, so I'll make up a couple ofcardboard templates and replace with good metal before the floor goes back in.
needmoretools
Active Member
Europa486
Well-Known Member
Rivnuts are ok but the captive nuts are held below the hole with a couple of blind rivets, so won’t go anywhere,
I have had Rivnuts fail on me in the past, this way they will outlast me,
