Will be fun to have it on the stand that's for sure

Regards springs it's got 2" bearmach blue rears up front and 3" bearmach blues on the rear

3" recommended tbh although I bet mines dropped a bit cos of the weight in it

2" dampers on her though so it keeps the springs in check tbh mate I don't think I've ever needed more droop
 
I think you'll have the front too high though

The rear is heavier

You'll have to block the rears if you fit 3" rears up front unless you have a very heavy front and empty rear

Either way it's always a fiddle to get right :p

Remember the props too though pal you already have body lift what's the problem I'm not even bodylifted

Welcome to the Rub Club :D
 
So that's new springs, hd steering arms, wide angle props, re-built steering box, rtc damper and adjustable panhard rod.

Did I miss anything? :p
 
Heavy duty cranked rear trailing arms and castor correction radius arms or eccentric bushes is all that's left after that really :)
 
So that's broke :(

null_zps6dff83c0.jpg
 
well pegging helps prevent the flex which causes the crown wheel damage which sam has above, if its the pins that go, thats down to a week diff, get a 4 pin diff or a locker of some sort as they are generally stronger
 
Yeah I've just been speaking to nige at MS who does peg conversions, more dosh :( but gonna take the plunge and do that

Big Al has very kindly offered CWP out of a lunched diff with snapped pin that hopefully will be serviceable

As mark says paul the pin snapping is a diff problem whereas crown wheel damage is a fundamental issue that can happen to any diff, diffs go from wheel spinning, crowns go from torque loads, I was 3x locked when this one went and probably on tickover :(
 
Yeah mate had only just got in there and had to winch out again.

Thanks for the offer of bits pal may need them :)
 

Similar threads