discomark10
Well-Known Member
The keen-eyed will notice I have used my trademark red wire
lol bit OTT, but suppose it does the job.... nice cheeky lil mod :high5:
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Hi chaps
Shaun, yes you do need to be spacially aware of the circuitry in the car and be able to keep a very good mental map of what and where the wires are.
All the circuits worked first time on this build because I sat down and talked myself through what went in and out of each switch. I covered all angles and double checked before soldering up, but it does take an element of skill to be able to do that so I wouldn't recommend pulling yours apart and hoping for the best until you know you can come good in a weeks time!!
Edd, I got a very lucky bulk buy on various gauges of black and red down at my local Maccess, so it was dirt cheap. Otherwise I buy all my electrical stuff from Vehicle Wiring Products (online). It is the only place to buy stuff for wiring cars!!
Mark, yes it was one of those things that has been bugging my mate for ages, now bugs me cos I have the same problem and I thought 'hey it can't be that hard'
Luckily 'twas not hard at all
Shaun, yes you do need to be spacially aware of the circuitry in the car and be able to keep a very good mental map of what and where the wires are.
All the circuits worked first time on this build because I sat down and talked myself through what went in and out of each switch. I covered all angles and double checked before soldering up, but it does take an element of skill to be able to do that so I wouldn't recommend pulling yours apart and hoping for the best until you know you can come good in a weeks time!!
Edd, I got a very lucky bulk buy on various gauges of black and red down at my local Maccess, so it was dirt cheap. Otherwise I buy all my electrical stuff from Vehicle Wiring Products (online). It is the only place to buy stuff for wiring cars!!
Mark, yes it was one of those things that has been bugging my mate for ages, now bugs me cos I have the same problem and I thought 'hey it can't be that hard'
Luckily 'twas not hard at all
discomark10
Well-Known Member
I never crimp.... just asking for trouble
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
I must admit I borrowed a set of ratchet crimpers off my mate to do insulated terminals with, they are awesome.
My fuse board is terminated with insulated crimps now I think about it, but I avoided them where possible.
So yes, all joints within the loom are soldered. All uninsulated crimps are soldered then crimped over with pliers for neatness, and all insulated crimps are done with a ratchet tool.
Regards the wire edd, no idea, easily swallowed 30m of twin core running to the front and back for work lights and beacons, and a bit offering about here and there, easy 5m of the thick red, medium red and black and a few metres of the thin stuff.
Ran out of twin core (should have ordered 2x30m rolls) in the end cos I was running wires to interior lamps etc so I had to use whatever I had in stock, so there's a bit of speaker wire in there now too
, easily swallowed 30m of twin core running to the front and back for work lights and beacons, and a bit offering about here and there, easy 5m of the thick red, medium red and black and a few metres of the thin stuff.
Ran out of twin core (should have ordered 2x30m rolls) in the end cos I was running wires to interior lamps etc so I had to use whatever I had in stock, so there's a bit of speaker wire in there now too
Feck! Feck & double feck
.Twin core & speaker wire
What a **** awful cowboy job. If you don't have it catch fire, it is a total nightmare
.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
I think you'll find MHM it's absolutely fine.
In fact why don't you stop moaning, in my opinion if i was wiring a system so that when I switch over to red interior lamps it shuts off the dashboard lighting, I would firstly find where the side lamp switch feed from the fuse meets all the rest of the side lamp circuit. I would find that they all meet in one of those handy circuit connector blocks that land rover use lots of. I would then separate the exterior sidelamp circuits to one sidelamp fuse and the interior sidelamp circuit to the other sidelamp fuse.
I would then cut the supply to the interior sidelamp circuit (all the dash lighting) and join both those cut ends to a length of twin core.
This twin core now carries the dash lighting feed and the dash lighting supply.
It will meet a double pole switch in the roof panel, which has two operations, to switch fromwhite to red interior lighting and when doing so it will turn off the dash illumination.
In my book, the best way to run two wires is using a twin core cable, because it keeps those circuits together, neat, tidy and easy to suss in future.
Plus I am not a fan of body earthing so I run an earth to every component.
If you are genuinely having a go at me then I insist you either show us your version of how it should be done or just shut up and remember that this switch panel and MS install was faultless, everything worked as it should have done once the fuses were pushed in and the key turned, so I don't think you should be calling it a cowboy job or even anything near.
What it is is a lot of modification without disturbing the original looms where possible, hence, twin core
In fact why don't you stop moaning, in my opinion if i was wiring a system so that when I switch over to red interior lamps it shuts off the dashboard lighting, I would firstly find where the side lamp switch feed from the fuse meets all the rest of the side lamp circuit. I would find that they all meet in one of those handy circuit connector blocks that land rover use lots of. I would then separate the exterior sidelamp circuits to one sidelamp fuse and the interior sidelamp circuit to the other sidelamp fuse.
I would then cut the supply to the interior sidelamp circuit (all the dash lighting) and join both those cut ends to a length of twin core.
This twin core now carries the dash lighting feed and the dash lighting supply.
It will meet a double pole switch in the roof panel, which has two operations, to switch fromwhite to red interior lighting and when doing so it will turn off the dash illumination.
In my book, the best way to run two wires is using a twin core cable, because it keeps those circuits together, neat, tidy and easy to suss in future.
Plus I am not a fan of body earthing so I run an earth to every component.
If you are genuinely having a go at me then I insist you either show us your version of how it should be done or just shut up and remember that this switch panel and MS install was faultless, everything worked as it should have done once the fuses were pushed in and the key turned, so I don't think you should be calling it a cowboy job or even anything near.
What it is is a lot of modification without disturbing the original looms where possible, hence, twin core
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Hindsight is a wonderful thing and always twice as clear when seen by others........
I have spent the last 5 weeks re-wiring my car and I too agree that body earthing is not the greatest way of wiring components in. I wonder if that is why race teams don't do it.......
11amp wire will happily take 132 watts at 12 volts and speaker wire, if it is the crappy stuff from halfords will take almost 50watts. So when we're talking lighting you realise that 11amp is a pair of spots and speaker wire is good for interior lights. (However it is better, to double up capacity is cake to ensure the fuse blows before the wire burnsout)
All in all looking at the quality of Mr Noisys work to date, I'm sure that the wiring is up to scratch and neatly installed.
I agree, you can't just slag off a fellow member and not back it up with your own interpretation of how it should be. It doesn't matter if you have 50 or 50k posts under your belt, after all were here to help and encourage not slagg off - that's for freelanders lol
I have spent the last 5 weeks re-wiring my car and I too agree that body earthing is not the greatest way of wiring components in. I wonder if that is why race teams don't do it.......
11amp wire will happily take 132 watts at 12 volts and speaker wire, if it is the crappy stuff from halfords will take almost 50watts. So when we're talking lighting you realise that 11amp is a pair of spots and speaker wire is good for interior lights. (However it is better, to double up capacity is cake to ensure the fuse blows before the wire burnsout)
All in all looking at the quality of Mr Noisys work to date, I'm sure that the wiring is up to scratch and neatly installed.
I agree, you can't just slag off a fellow member and not back it up with your own interpretation of how it should be. It doesn't matter if you have 50 or 50k posts under your belt, after all were here to help and encourage not slagg off - that's for freelanders lol
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
So, today I took another motorway run (whilst datalogging ) up to Chorley to see a top bloke called Richard from www.activeledlightbars.co.uk who sorted me out with some cracking LED strobe beacons!
There are 4x 4 LED heads for the rear of the car, and 2x 2x3 LED heads for the front grill.
Richard also threw in a dashboard/windscreen mounted 4 LED head which was very kind of him. Would be super handy to use the windscreen head BUT I don't want any glare in the car so will have to see!
Anyway, just to let you know that of you are looking for LED beacons then Richard @ Active is absolutely the man, proper decent chap.
He said the best contact is activeledlightbars@hotmail.co.uk and if anyone wants a price list he emailed it to me so I can forward it on to you.
Gonna be a bit more headscratching for me regards getting them all fitted though
) up to Chorley to see a top bloke called Richard from www.activeledlightbars.co.uk who sorted me out with some cracking LED strobe beacons!
There are 4x 4 LED heads for the rear of the car, and 2x 2x3 LED heads for the front grill.
Richard also threw in a dashboard/windscreen mounted 4 LED head which was very kind of him. Would be super handy to use the windscreen head BUT I don't want any glare in the car so will have to see!
Anyway, just to let you know that of you are looking for LED beacons then Richard @ Active is absolutely the man, proper decent chap.
He said the best contact is activeledlightbars@hotmail.co.uk and if anyone wants a price list he emailed it to me so I can forward it on to you.
Gonna be a bit more headscratching for me regards getting them all fitted though
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GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
So, today I took another motorway run (whilst datalogging
There are 4x 4 LED heads for the rear of the car, and 2x 2x3 LED heads for the front grill.
Richard also threw in a dashboard/windscreen mounted 4 LED head which was very kind of him. Would be super handy to use the windscreen head BUT I don't want any glare in the car so will have to see!
Anyway, just to let you know that of you are looking for LED beacons then Richard @ Active is absolutely the man, proper decent chap.
He said the best contact is activeledlightbars@hotmail.co.uk and if anyone wants a price list he emailed it to me so I can forward it on to you.
Gonna be a bit more headscratching for me regards getting them all fitted though
I understand many things but not these....... Sorry........
I have a couple of friends with strobes and light bars and I always get so embarrassed when they have them on for no reason.....
Just don't turn into a knob
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Great first post mate
Thanks for the comment, **** its taken a long time and sometimes I get depressed at how much money has gone into it, but that's only on bad days
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
I understand many things but not these....... Sorry........
I have a couple of friends with strobes and light bars and I always get so embarrassed when they have them on for no reason.....
Just don't turn into a knob
Ha ha, good shout, glad you mentioned it cos it is a valid point!
I will be using mine when I am involved with on or off road recovery, they won't be used unnecessarily!
Yes, you could say and I would agree, that they won't be used very often!!!
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Didn't mean to be rude but its a small gap from a nice off roader to a dick mobile with flashing lights and music blasting over the CB.
I agree that if you use your vehicle for 4x4 Response or recovery then yes you absolutely need LED lights. I trust a neat install...............just use the right wire lol...
I agree that if you use your vehicle for 4x4 Response or recovery then yes you absolutely need LED lights. I trust a neat install...............just use the right wire lol...
