here’s some of the others i’ve seen , i might already have them but just in case

hope it may be useful to u and all goes well

if u scroll down it lists the pins numbers in other links

pins on the X1 plug are as follows:-

1 - Green/White
2 - Red/White
3 - Not used
4 - Not used
5 - Not used
6 - Brown/W

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic44318.html

https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/Webasto_Heater_Thermo_Top_C_Workshop_Manual_(2).pdf

other connectors if req

http://www.dieselheaters4u.co.uk/store/c9/WIRING_LOOMS_&_ACCESSORIES.html

dieseldog69 said:

So this is my project, Rusty.

Land Rover Discovery 1 1992 200Tdi diesel.

Not too bad looking from the outside, but that's just the beginning!!

This was initial nightmare!!! A careless welder had set fire to the foam insulation on the bulk head and it burned out most of the L/H loom and affected nearly all the circuits in one way or another!!

I am by no means deterred by any of the work I have done on Rusty and many have said that I was robbed when I paid 1200 euro for him but on the other hand I also know the types of people that were looking at him when he was burned out and a non runner!!! All they are looking at is the chance to double their money selling the engine and transmission on to someone else and scrap the rest, but I not only wanted to make him run again, which I have but I want to make him better than he was when new.

I was busy doing some of this...

So once stripped out I got to see what I was dealing with, and it wasn't pretty!!!

So bad bits cut out and it was time to cut and paste it all back together again.

Notice there are a couple of extra cables in the new loom section for a time when I build a roof console to fit even more gadgets in to the truck.

So with the wiring all finished it was time to see if he started......

Video is unavailable thanks to PhotoBucket holding pix & vids to ransom.

So for the first time in over 7 months of being stood waiting for someone to send him to the scrap yard I started him with the aid of my little van as the battery although was fully charged had a dead cell so was useless and in need of replacement.

So with the wiring done I needed to turn my attention to the welding!!!

This is just one hole that I knew of but it didn't stop me wondering why on earth the boot floor was not replaced a few years ago when it first rotted through, the little tabs you see are tin strips that are stuck down with silicone, poor effort just to get through the Kuering!!!

So it went from this...

To this.....

Then on to this.....

Fully seam welded in with some plating done along the edges to replace rotten metal, I had to replace the floor supports as they were rotten beyond salvage but before the boot floor went in I had to deal with this....

All cut out well nearly, as I opted to do a two piece repair as to save the suspension geometry as it can and usually does move!!!

Now I stumbled upon a problem, I needed two more matching 235/75 15" General Grabber for the back axle to replace the racing slicks it came with and the thing is they don't make them anymore and finding them in that size was not to be done so I devised a new plan and wanting to fit taller tyres to give a little diff clearance I decided to fit the 24 spline axles from my old V8 Disco to enable me to use the nice silver deep dish alloys in 16", and well Cooper STT look splendid on them!! This is swapping the back axle and the new tyres....

And new one going in..

And these are the new tyres against the old ones!!

So I still have a million things left to do but the front axle is now top of my list as the old compomotive alloys are sold to another forum member.

Watch this space for more updates.

Click to expand...

What a great job you're doing! It's great to see one being saved and made even better than before.Thanks for posting it up

Joemac434 said:

What a great job you're doing! It's great to see one being saved and made even better than before.Thanks for posting it up

Click to expand...

You'd have liked it even better had PB not decided to hold users to Ransome

5+ solid years of motoring and not much has gone wrong, if anything I really should post some of the other stuff that's been added since

gstuart said:

here’s some of the others i’ve seen , i might already have them but just in case

hope it may be useful to u and all goes well

if u scroll down it lists the pins numbers in other links

pins on the X1 plug are as follows:-

1 - Green/White
2 - Red/White
3 - Not used
4 - Not used
5 - Not used
6 - Brown/W

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic44318.html

https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/Webasto_Heater_Thermo_Top_C_Workshop_Manual_(2).pdf

other connectors if req

http://www.dieselheaters4u.co.uk/store/c9/WIRING_LOOMS_&_ACCESSORIES.html

Click to expand...

I was reading that last night, they put up a load of good links that have helped (read as confused me even more than I was before).

Parts ordering at the mo and this might have already morphed over the last few hours, the joys of sitting in the digger with nothing but time to think lol

Just getting my bits together for tomorrow's battle, LT230 output bearings, output seals and the kit I picked up was for the felt washers and the front and rear housing gaskets.



Isn't it odd that the same LR part No. STC1130 from two different suppliers come looking totally different, one with plastic dust covers and one without.





Oh well, never mind, the micrometer doesn't lie and they are identical in dimension, I will use the "American" branded (read as they were both manufactured in in Singapore and most likely the same factory with different packaging).



And genuine Corteco seals.



The plan so far, weather permitting of course (don't do pizzing rain and playing mechanics), drain the oil, pop the props off front and rear, remove the H-brake and back plate, leave the actual transfer case in situ but pull the housings off it and set to work.

I have had a leaky intermediate shaft for a while so I will have a look and see if there is something I can do with that for now, if I can get it to hold out for another 6 months I will be happy to do a bit to it in the short term until I can afford to get an Ashcroft refurb with ATB fitted and a steel sleeved casing for the intermediate shaft to stop the soft ally casing elongating and causing the leak to begin with.

Let us pray the weather lets me play tomorrow shall we.

you dont need to remove front housing

jamesmartin said:

you dont need to remove front housing

Click to expand...

I don't have a slide hammer, I saw a youtube vid (159) Td5 transfer box front output bearing removal with a quick nocked up slide hammer worked a treat - YouTube and Busters Transfer box front output bearing and oil seal renewal | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum section on it but don have a round drift to refit them squarely under the Disco so I figured better to do it on the bench and heat the casings as per the manual?

How do you do them then @jamesmartin ?

dieseldog69 said:

I don't have a slide hammer, I saw a youtube vid (159) Td5 transfer box front output bearing removal with a quick nocked up slide hammer worked a treat - YouTube and Busters Transfer box front output bearing and oil seal renewal | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum section on it but don have a round drift to refit them squarely under the Disco so I figured better to do it on the bench and heat the casings as per the manual?

How do you do them then @jamesmartin ?

Click to expand...

remove flange the seal then circlip, refit flange and nut ,lever shaft out

jamesmartin said:

remove flange the seal then circlip, refit flange and nut ,lever shaft out

Click to expand...

What about the refitting?

4lb lump and a punch?

dieseldog69 said:

What about the refitting?

4lb lump and a punch?

Click to expand...

or suitable socket etc,they are not a tight fit

We shall find out tomorrow for sure!!!

Hate Sundays at the minute, just get all the tools laid out and start then her indoors rings and needs picked up
Be better when she passes her test and can drive her bloody self!

Anyway, after I quickly packed up (read as, left her standing there in the 0 degrees temps to suffer for interrupting ) I took a few snaps of a few new editions and upgrades that have happened and not been added until now

Bought this a few years ago when I lived in Holland after getting drunk at a party and thought it would look good on my Rusty, 42" LED light bar no less, big, but big in a not big enough and too big all at the same time, yes I was drunk and yes I should really put credit cards under lock and key when I drink anyways, couldn't decide exactly and was going to make a roof bar for it to be mounted on but being straight and not curved, it would have looked odd against the curvature of the roof so binned that idea, was going to trim down my nudge bar and fitt it there but it was too wide by a couple of inches and interfered with the headlights, thought about selling it but figured I would loose too much money on it and voila, whilst I was brain storming I laid it on the bonnet and it sort of just looked like it might work, 15 minutes later, three holes drilled and on it went, used the cable gland from a mk6 fiesta electric mirror and relayed it into the full beam, it is like daylight when I turn on high beams



I bought a second hand Southdown snorkel a while back, didn't realise it came with a broken top and a perforated flexy pipe but hey ho, the top I saw when I picked it up and figured it would be a fix or replace jobbie and the rubber reinforced flexy pipe wasn't apparent until I stuck it in a bucket of water to wash it and clean all the crappy silicone off it before I got busy fitting it, I was gutted went online to find the spares and they were going to set me back more than I wanted to pay at that time so they just laid in the garden box, Christmas came and I got a heck of a surprise, she knew I was disappointed by the Southdown fiasco and bought me a Safari style snorkel to fit in stead



That then presented me with a new problem (notice how one thing with Land Rovers seems to lead to another ) the 26yo tincan air filter housing was never going to become water tight, I hunted dozens of threads about sealing them up only to come to the conclusion that I hated the idea of setting a false sense of security by blathering it with copious amounts of silicone sealer only for that one time I need it to work it fails miserably and costs me a good day out and a new engine cue the new carbon fiber compact filter housing with a high flow K&N cone filter housed inside it, a load of silicone reducer pieces, few sections of swaged ally joiners and an ally 90 degree bend and hey presto one sealed air intake.







I liked it that the carbon fiber filter housing was light weight with the K&N in it but I wanted to make sure it wasn't flopping around like a flappy thing under the bonnet, so I fitted a clamp and an anti vibration mount to hold it steady, was going to fit 2 but it seemed over kill on such a lightweight part.



Then there was the fact that I had a very near miss with a gate post whilst reversing in the yard, so found some decent little LED lamps to go on the back door to illuminate the back, was going to put them on a separate switch but decided to just relay them off the rear lamp clusters.





So far so good but they are going to be relocated again as the spare wheel needs to go back out on the backdoor to make space inside for the camper conversion that is being planned out for the interior.

More progress to follow.

Oh dear, as per usual with poor old Rusty, someone has been in the transfer box before never mind, I'll do it properly this time.

So a big thanks to James Martin for the advice on levering the output bearings out with a crow bar, worked a treat, this has been todays little foray in between getting stopped a dozen or more times and life generally getting in the way.

Drained the transfer box oil completely, it was actually in reasonable condition really.



Made sure I took the filler plug out first, nothing worse than draining it and not being able to fill it up again!



Undone the prop nuts and tied it up out of the way.



Wound out the big 30mm nyloc only to find there has been a liberal dousing of black silicone around the output shaft splines and around the felt washer.





small chisel and a few slaps with a hammer to break the seals grip of the casing, and prise it out, the seal was incredibly hard and no wonder it wasn't really sealing very well.
popped out the big a$$ circlip that retains the bearing in the housing, slot the output flange back and a few turns of the old nut, slot the crowbar in under the flange and lever it out, it comes easily to the very edge but getting it past just required a couple of small blocks to lever against and out it pops.



Shaft on the deck with the old bearing on still, grabbed my 3 leg pullers and pulled the bearing off the shaft.



Turns out the output flange is worse for wear and has deep scoring on the seal land New flange on order and got a deal on a front and rear flange just in case I get the same surprise when I do the rear output bearing.



The output shaft is in amazing condition, no wear on the splines at all, a new seal and a new flange to go in now and it will be as good as new.



Finish this up when the new flanges arrive and when I tackle the rear.

Bloody hell, it was like Christmas in my house when I got home, boxes and bags of goodies for me to unwrap



First there was the Warrior 10mm synthetic winch line that I had ordered yonks ago, wasn't delivered within the 10 day slot they gave, opened a case and got a full refund for, so this was a £150 freebie, it even came with a free hause to replace the wire rope rollers



Then there are the new drive flange kits for the front and rear outputs of the LT230, the front drive flange was badly scored and I decided that I can better order the pair than wait until I find out that the rear is fekked too and end up buying that later on too, they come with new nyloc nuts, felt washer, oil seals and mud shields.





Ordered a full set of prop nuts and bolts including the rear output flange bolts that are longer than standard as they have to pass through the hand brake drum too.



Then there are the prize gems that I was border line ringing the credit card company to open a dispute for undelivered goods but they came today, all the way from Turkey too
The new electric connectors for my Webasto FBH, need them to build up the loom for the heater install, now if only that fuel dosing pump would just turn up



Now for some vintage CB action in these pages, that's right, nothing less than an Amstrad 900 CB, very pleased with this find on eBay, was looking for a 901 with the PA button and the roger bleep but this is plenty good enough, I used to have one years ago when I was a kid, this is long before mobile phones were ever common, let alone small enough to be carried in your pocket lol



I've borrowed a 50mm 3/4 drive socket from one of our fitters at work as it is a perfect fit on the output bearings and should make it nice and easy to drift the bearings back into the housings, better be getting my skates on and fixing the Disco now I've spent so much effort and money buying stuff to go on it LOL

Gutted today, went to work and it was bright and sunny, half way home it started pizzing rain and hasn't stopped, I decided to sit in the cabin and sort out the dash lights that don't seem to illuminate any more.

Second bit of gutting news is that the T-max split charge has now expired rather unexpectedly, went to turn the ignition on to check the lamps and there was nothing, zip, zero, flat as a bloody pancake! Both batteries too so something has gone seriously amiss, battery is only a year old and the aux battery is not often used as I haven't winched in ages and nothing else is running off that circuit at the minute, this has set my mind on the absolute that the aux battery circuit has to be run off a second alternator, possibly the gubbins inside the T-max black box has created a dead short, it has been disconnected so I can charge the main starter battery fully then I will charge the aux battery fully.

Hope that we get better weather tomorrow and I can get on with the transfer box and try and fault find this electrical glitch.

Well the weather was better, sort of, bright and sunny but by golly that wind was whipping through my parking spaces with a vengeance!

Set about getting the output shaft and bearing back in the housing, lined it up, started tapping it around the circumference with my little hammer to get it started.
Using the old bearing race and the 50mm socket I beat it into place.



Refit the retaining circlip, much faffing around as it pinged off my circlip pliers multiple times, although much to the amusement of my neighbour who who was listening to me swearing and getting riled under the truck.



Then tap in the new oil seal, I was sure to grease this up very well before fitting.



Then slide on the new output flange fitted with new bolts and a new mud shield, fit a new felt washer behind the big thick washer and wind it up to 162nm,



Refit the front prop and we're good to go again.



Not 100% happy with the new nyloc nuts as the nylon seemed to push out of the front of the nut rather than bite on the threads, but, we shall see.

Refill the transfer box with fresh EP80/90 with the big oil syringe and ready for the test drive.



This is my selection of tools from today's escapade.



I also tightened up the alternator drive belt while I had the tools out as I remembered it squeal the other day whilst we were out.

My aux battery seems to have died strangely and suddenly as the indicator on it says that it should be replaced, even after having the whole day on full power charging
I need to order up all the parts for the second alternator installation, and I am torn between 2 alternators, I could easily get a Magnetti Marelli A127 100A alternator as fitted to the 300Tdi Discovery and Defender but as I want it to be stand alone with a massive battery that will do the winching and aux power I am undecided

Alternator 170AMP HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR Fits CRUSADER MARINE ENGINES 3-Wire 170AMP

Or LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 300 TDI 100 amp ALTERNATOR - YLE10113 MAGNETTI MARELLI | eBay

Battery SEALED CALCIUM XPLORER 220 AH LEISURE BATTERY.HUGE POWER STORE!!

Oh well, time enough to procrastinate and drive myself insane over it I suppose.

I went over to mums to fix her sofa, so while I was there I picked up the QT diff guards that I bought a couple of years back but never fitted, read a few threads about them being weak in places so I'll read a bit more and maybe attack the front with some 10mm re-bar to reinforce it against any full on frontal wallops.

They were second hand when I bought them and I hadn't realized that they were supposed to have little brackets that go on the diff flange studs so I will have to get creative there and fab up a little something to sort that out.

Still mulling over the preferred route for the second alternator fit but I'm certain I had better make a firm decision soon as I still have a lot of planning to do for the complete install.

Ordered up some 3/8 X 5/8 BSF bolts and spring washers for the QT diff guard fitting.

Grabbed a length of 4mm X 20mm flat bar to make the new top mounting brackets, this is what it is supposed to look like.



Flimsy plate with an M6 bolt, I think not, basically looks like a decent bash will fold that thin plate and allow the diff guard to squash the diff pan against the crown wheel, could just be me being over cautious?

Not to worry, will sort it out this weekend.

Maplins for a CB aerial tomorrow

dieseldog69 said:

Maplins for a CB aerial tomorrow

Click to expand...

Don't forget an SWR meter and jumper cable.

Cheers

neilly said:

Don't forget an SWR meter and jumper cable.

Cheers

Click to expand...

FFS I nearly forgot!

Cheers mate