Cool, was thinking a meter would be good then it can go up next the fuel filter housing, less that £30
My three way on it's own was nearly that!
that does indeed look better
Sexy bit of kit that isn't it
HypeHose tonight as I still want other goodies
Went to HypeHose tonight to get my pipe as they didn't have time to do the crimping, traffic was horrific and I ended up getting there late.
1/4" braided stainless steel PTFE pipe UNC fittings so I needed a few adaptors to make it work but the price was insanely cheap for a custom pipe and fittings £18 all in for the pipe, 3 fittings and a half dozen hose clamps for the boost gauge.
Pics to follow when I fit it, it's taken up residency in my van for now as it's clean and safe from damage in there.
1/4" braided stainless steel PTFE pipe UNC fittings so I needed a few adaptors to make it work but the price was insanely cheap for a custom pipe and fittings £18 all in for the pipe, 3 fittings and a half dozen hose clamps for the boost gauge.
Pics to follow when I fit it, it's taken up residency in my van for now as it's clean and safe from damage in there.
Braved the cold as it was actually quite nice out without the wind.
Fitted the dislocation cones as last trip out the springs popped out of the perch and it felt rather odd to drive, ordered these from Adrenaline, seem good quality zinc plated things.
Popped the wheels off and pulled the springs out and they went on easy enough in about an hour.
As always, there is a snag to be hit along the way and I am pretty sure that I am going to be busy with me welder at some point
Goes right through into the cabin at the bottom of the passenger foot well.
And I flocking well hate the previous owners, I hadn't noticed this before as it was beside a previous weld repair and blathered in, you guessed it, black silicone
Pop riveted on and blathered in silicone the bastids
Oh well
Pulled the inlet manifold as I want to drill and tap it for the barbed fitting that will feed the pressure to the boost gauge in the cab, a lot of people take the pressure off the boost pipe that feeds the wastegate actuator and fuel pump but I want to see the actual inlet pressure as there can be significant pressure drop through the intercooler.
Just a few snaps of the manifold being pulled.
I noted there is a reasonable amount of oil there on the intercooler outlet where the flexy pipe goes off to the intake, looks like I will be picking up a gallon of petrol and pulling the intercooler for a good rinsing out and clean, don't think it is the turbo as I fitted a new one only 5,000kms ago, suppose it is a good enough excuse to get an oil catch can to compliment the crank case oil separator
Fitted the dislocation cones as last trip out the springs popped out of the perch and it felt rather odd to drive, ordered these from Adrenaline, seem good quality zinc plated things.
Popped the wheels off and pulled the springs out and they went on easy enough in about an hour.
As always, there is a snag to be hit along the way and I am pretty sure that I am going to be busy with me welder at some point
Goes right through into the cabin at the bottom of the passenger foot well.
And I flocking well hate the previous owners, I hadn't noticed this before as it was beside a previous weld repair and blathered in, you guessed it, black silicone
Pop riveted on and blathered in silicone the bastids
Oh well
Pulled the inlet manifold as I want to drill and tap it for the barbed fitting that will feed the pressure to the boost gauge in the cab, a lot of people take the pressure off the boost pipe that feeds the wastegate actuator and fuel pump but I want to see the actual inlet pressure as there can be significant pressure drop through the intercooler.
Just a few snaps of the manifold being pulled.
I noted there is a reasonable amount of oil there on the intercooler outlet where the flexy pipe goes off to the intake, looks like I will be picking up a gallon of petrol and pulling the intercooler for a good rinsing out and clean, don't think it is the turbo as I fitted a new one only 5,000kms ago, suppose it is a good enough excuse to get an oil catch can to compliment the crank case oil separator
Tell me about it, bit of ally pop riveted on is a bodge it an scarper classic, but its not a big job to repair it properly, just a bit time consuming, well, assuming you can weld of course, but why own an old Discovery without being a proficient welder?
The cones were cheap at £30, you have to hunt eBay a bit for the cheapies as they vary wildly on price! I forgot to mention that I had to use a cheat when fitting them, use super glue to fix the nyloc but and washer to the top plate and the same with the bolt through the cone, makes it much easier to get it all to fit as opposed to fiddling with loose fixings
Too cold out to play outside so I drilled and tapped the intake manifold for the boost gauge barb union to be fitted and decided to use my favourite LokSeal thread sealant to fasten and seal it.
Fitted the unions and fittings together for the oil pressure sender and switch pipe.
Admittedly I have misplaced my 10mm ring terminals to ensure it has a good earth but I'll grab some more tomorrow.
And always good to have some extra brake unions and fittings, just some M10X1 fe/fe to pick up and I/m about sorted for stores, well maybe an extra length of 3/16 cunifer pipe too.
If the wind abates tomorrow then I'll crack on with the refitting of the manifold and the plumbing in of the oil feed line.
Really must fit me CB aerial too..............
Fitted the unions and fittings together for the oil pressure sender and switch pipe.
Admittedly I have misplaced my 10mm ring terminals to ensure it has a good earth but I'll grab some more tomorrow.
And always good to have some extra brake unions and fittings, just some M10X1 fe/fe to pick up and I/m about sorted for stores, well maybe an extra length of 3/16 cunifer pipe too.
If the wind abates tomorrow then I'll crack on with the refitting of the manifold and the plumbing in of the oil feed line.
Really must fit me CB aerial too..............
Bluddy fcuking snow and freezing temps has seen me stay in doors, we have about 6 inches of snow out side the front door and I just can't do anything further without actually getting inside it or under the bonnet, I did get as far as re-fitting the intake manifold and drilling the hole for the cable and pipe grommet to pass through next to the accelerator pedal and I've drilled a hole in the dash ready for the cables and pipe to be fed through to the gauge pod.
Loads to do, but they're all little bits and if the snow abates tomorrow then I should be able to crack on and finish the gauge pods, fit the remote oil pressure gauge pipe and get the CB aerial on it, really wanted to change the front axle oil as it's been in there a while and fit the QT diff guards, figured that if I weld them on to the to of the diff housing they can't flex as much as they would with that flimsy little plate on the top, might weld in some re-bar side bars too to create some extra rigidity, weather dependent of course.
Loads to do, but they're all little bits and if the snow abates tomorrow then I should be able to crack on and finish the gauge pods, fit the remote oil pressure gauge pipe and get the CB aerial on it, really wanted to change the front axle oil as it's been in there a while and fit the QT diff guards, figured that if I weld them on to the to of the diff housing they can't flex as much as they would with that flimsy little plate on the top, might weld in some re-bar side bars too to create some extra rigidity, weather dependent of course.
This should help.
http://projectrusty1992.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/the-welding-begins.html
There used to be a load of my welding threads around but since PhotoBucket got greedy they have all but disappeared.
I tend to take a load of photos of my work, it helps to remind me later on of the problems that I have over come during my adventure.
Gone a little OTT on the clamp and bracket for the remote oil pressure sender, very heavy duty and should hold everything tight in place once installed, let us pray the snow fcuks off tomorrow.
Well the snow stayed, it froze a bit harder, I still had to get out there and tinker though, admittedly at less than half pace as I was in need of a warm up and a brew more than usual in the cold with the wind howling through my parking spaces again, but hey ho, got a bit more done.
Drilled a hole next to the throttle cable and stuck a grommet in there and fed the cable and pipe through into the cab.
Like a bit of protection on my cables and I put a length of cable sheath on these, taped it to the grommet and it runs right through the dash up to the pods location.
Used a bit of 3/16ths brake line as a cobra to feed through and pull the pipe and wires through the cable sheath and up through the dash.
The mounting bracket for the pressure switch and sender.
After dunking the boost pipe in my cup to warm it and make it more malleable it went on and was clipped into place.
decided it would be easier to undo the two 10mm bolts and pop the oil thermostat and pipe work out of the way while I fitted the remote oil line and unions. I have now seen what an engine oil thermostat looks like, can verify that mine is stuck open and that the 5 minutes in taking it off was worth a heck of a lot of swear words in my estimation.
Already been on to John Craddocks and ordered a new one and a new seal for it too.
I had the intercooler off and rinsed it through with petrol and as always I like to purge the vapours from the intercooler as it has been a little too exciting in the past and not in a good way!
And this is what the gauge pod will look like sat up on it's false plinth, I preferred this to trying to stuff cables and pipes into various places and not making a good job of it, this enables me to have an open area beneath the gauges where the cables can lay freely without me worrying that I've kinked the boost pipe or I've managed to knock off a lamp connector where I've had to stuff it all into the space behind the gauges, like this, single piece of 25x25x25mm channel cut to allow me to fold it round and create tidy bends.
Still got to screw the plinth down and connect the lights and sender wires up, shouldn't take long, then off the Steyning for the day to help out a man in need.
Oh and still need to bleed the air out of the new remote oil line before I forget.
Drilled a hole next to the throttle cable and stuck a grommet in there and fed the cable and pipe through into the cab.
Like a bit of protection on my cables and I put a length of cable sheath on these, taped it to the grommet and it runs right through the dash up to the pods location.
Used a bit of 3/16ths brake line as a cobra to feed through and pull the pipe and wires through the cable sheath and up through the dash.
The mounting bracket for the pressure switch and sender.
After dunking the boost pipe in my cup to warm it and make it more malleable it went on and was clipped into place.
decided it would be easier to undo the two 10mm bolts and pop the oil thermostat and pipe work out of the way while I fitted the remote oil line and unions. I have now seen what an engine oil thermostat looks like, can verify that mine is stuck open and that the 5 minutes in taking it off was worth a heck of a lot of swear words in my estimation.
Already been on to John Craddocks and ordered a new one and a new seal for it too.
I had the intercooler off and rinsed it through with petrol and as always I like to purge the vapours from the intercooler as it has been a little too exciting in the past and not in a good way!
And this is what the gauge pod will look like sat up on it's false plinth, I preferred this to trying to stuff cables and pipes into various places and not making a good job of it, this enables me to have an open area beneath the gauges where the cables can lay freely without me worrying that I've kinked the boost pipe or I've managed to knock off a lamp connector where I've had to stuff it all into the space behind the gauges, like this, single piece of 25x25x25mm channel cut to allow me to fold it round and create tidy bends.
Still got to screw the plinth down and connect the lights and sender wires up, shouldn't take long, then off the Steyning for the day to help out a man in need.
Oh and still need to bleed the air out of the new remote oil line before I forget.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you do need plenty of tea in this weather
flat
Well-Known Member
It's a very satisfy thing to take a rotten old Disco and bring it back to life with a bit of work, it's not easy though! I've been welding for years and started out welding big stuff, heavy plant, digging buckets for excavators at work was where I properly learned to weld, pretty much "you can't feck it up" type stuff. I can't stress enough the need for practice on the bench before you start welding on your own truck, make sure you've got good penetration and be sure to try out of position welding, verticals etc, as the work you'll do on your Disco will inevitably be out of position and see you in the most awkward spots getting spatter all over you, get an auto dim mask and a good quality one!!
Goes cold bloody quick tho
Got me a Costa coffee ally thermal mug, you can flip the top and it stays warm for hours, even in these temps!
flat
Well-Known Member
@dieseldog69 you coming out tomorrow?
Absolutely
10am at the Hoggs Back cafe on the A31?
I saw we lost Steve
and Stuart @ has bombed out the gert jessie What do ya recon to the new gauges?
flat
Well-Known Member
Absolutely
10am at the Hoggs Back cafe on the A31?
I saw we lost Steve
What do ya recon to the new gauges?
View attachment 143663
They are cool, are they dimmable?
And yeah 10am hogs back, think it’s just 3 vehicles but I think that’s a decent number
Cool, low numbers
Not yet dimmable but they will be, didn't realise how bright they were going to be
