Where did you buy your new heater motor ?
Paddock are currently out of stock :-(.

Don't want to replace it with a second hand one ,
Cause they al break down in i only doing it once !

Like I said before in another thread, before you strip your's out, get a S/H one, go to a bearing factors and get bearings to replace the bronze bushings, even the new ones come with bushings not bearings, and in this day and age where everything seems to built to bottom dollar price I guess that new ones have potentially a shorter life span as I know that the bushings and spindle shaft were smaller on the brand new replacement motor that I didn't fit.

If you want a new one then try.......

Heater Motor RTC6693 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

Heater Fan Motor - RTC6693 | Discovery Series 1, Range Rover Classic | Land Rover, Range Rover | British Parts UK

RTC6693 | Heater Motor And Fan Rrc / Ds1 - Land Rover Part RTC6693

And if there was one single biggest piece of advice I could give, get the CD ROM for your Dicovery, seek out the part No. you want then go hunting on the net for the part No. you will be surprised by the fact that there are often cheaper and more helpful alternatives to shopping at Paddocks alone

Thx for the advice !

When I moved over from 10 spline to 24 there was a problem with the middle 4 studs in this picture.



Knock them out and fit the longer ones. http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/ra...in-axlecase-land-rover-rrover-and-disco-.html

went from this, with those 4 nuts barely on.



To this.



Diff studs look like this.



The splines you see on them bite into the axle casing and they simply knock out with a hammer, the new ones are pulled in from the back and tightened with the nuts when you fit the diff and torque them up, I went as far as to start mine half way to ensure there was no faffing around having to remove the diff where the studs didn't bite.



Vice grips and a couple of old nuts as spacers and wind them in a bit, fit the diff torque the nuts up and jobs a good un'.

Wanting to see my hard work and effort in the flesh I decided to have a little break away from mechanical jobs and decided to fit my labor of love(also known as my self made recovered dash 8) ), This is what it looks like inside now.....

Repaired heater box going back in and onwards......






So what do you all think so far? I like it

But as always with this car, for every good bit there seems to be a seriously bad bit to follow booooo





And WTF was going on here? Why on earth would you stick a little bit of tin on the bottom of the door post like this?

If you saw my own fair hands work on the other side door post bottom then you already know this is not acceptable as any type of welding repair!!!!




Oh well time to break out the welding gear again At least it is much warmer now and I can work in comfort in the evening, I also found the time to replace the piece of broom handle with a fully functioning window regulator and now the door card is back where it is supposed to be

Bush swapping for poly bushes, the old ones are drilled through the rubber all the way round the center sleeve and then the center sleeve is pushed out using a socket and spacer then the outer sleeve is cut through with a hacksaw and then knocked out with a cold chisel, see how it goes...












New bush is a two piece poly bush with a steel center sleeve that can be pushed in with fingers but the sleeve does need pressed home in the vice or tapped in with a wooded dolly and a hammer.



The chassis mounting bush is simply secured by a 30mm nut to the trailing arm and removing the nut allows the bush to slide off easily..



Assemble all the pieces of the new bush and lightly fasten a new nyloc nut for now as it will need to be aligned correctly before torquing up once on the truck!!





I gave Rusty a bath a few days ago and this is what I found under all that dust and grime...







Not looking too bad after all the work so far!!

Oooohhhhhh!!!! Shiney bits!!!

Went shopping and bought Rusty a new exhaust, center and tail pipe came courtesy of LPI in Landen, took me all of 30mins to fit and the hardest part was getting the rubbers hangers on the stirrups :shock:

When Rusty came to me he had a badly bent tail pipe that had been bashed into the mud shield, now in the interest of longevity I wanted to fit a whole new set as it future proofs him for a few years without worrying about needing to buy and fit new parts later on and I can just enjoy driving him.











After fitting the exhaust I needed to fix the back door handle as it was seizing in the unlatched position and not allowing the rear door to close again until I had levered it back down with my pocket knife, so I basically had to strip out the rear door to enable me to remove the handle and lubricate it thoroughly, this was in the form of oil being worked into the pivot and then thoroughly greased to prevent the oil from drying out over time, job done and a happy boy I am, now I feel some momentum being gathered hopefully the rest of the build should go a bit faster now

A viscous fan that was seized on the shaft solidly was my first battle!!!
I even went as far as to buy one of those special 32mm cranked head spanners just for the job and hey presto bent that and ruined it so back to my big adjustable and a few gentle blows with a hammer and punch being careful not to damage the water pump and after more than an hour and a half of struggling it came free.




I did a bit of work on my old mates Disco over the winter, namely the timing chest seals, now, allit took was one slip and we had punctured the rad, trouble is Paul needed to be back in Germany in the morning so the solution was to rob Rusty of his radiator to get Paul mobile and home and I could set about this one for re-core, well I can buy a brand new one for the price of a re-core here so ended up using a brazing rod and a propane torch to solder it all up and it has been good as gold since, but one thing I actually overlooked was that Rusty was filled with the long life OAT antifreeze, now not a problem until I decided I needed to get him filled up again as the rad was back in, and then I came home with my old favorite ethylene glycol, the two do not mix well at all and especially longer term running it sludges up and will block the rad and cause over heating, so mistake only noticed after filling it up, but too late and not wanting to risk freezing the block I left it alone until now, he has barely covered half a Km with it in so just draining it out, flushing it through and refilling the whole system should do, I think :?

Hose pipe going intothe bottom of the rad to back flush it through.



And here it flows out the top, just keep it going in for a while and block it off a little so that it has to pressurize and blow a little, it helps to remove any sludge from the lower rad tubes and should help with future cooling.



Push the water through the engine block too via the thermostat housing, it runs back out the bottom rad pipe so you need to keep an eye on how clear it runs before you get over excited and turn it off.



And then fill it up again.



The 5 liter bottles are ready to use diluted antimix, perfect as no need to try and guess how much neat and how much water went in.

So my list is getting smaller one moment and then bigger the next :twisted:

Managed to find time today for a little bit of fettling, and did I mention I went shopping too?



I know frivolous spending but trouble is the price was right and so was the bank balance too, but hell, why hold back it was getting them at some point

So first job was to finish the bleeding of the brakes, soon done but I am not happy with the pedal feel, although the discs are red rusty and will need a good run around to burn the rust off the discs before I change the pads ready for the safety test, so 30 mins on the rear brakes.

And these are my home made gaiters for the gear shifts and H/brake, made from the same material as the dash was covered in.



Thought I might see for myself what the worry is with running 235/85 16s on a Disco, safe to say that yes I will have to do a camel cut to the rear arches





The rest was for stripping off the front bumper.





Only to find this lurking behind the bumper



Not so bad but still needs done :roll:



Progress has at last restarted

I'm loving that interior dieseldog!

Let us know when you've done the camel cut as I'll most likely need to do the same!

God help me

The rear arches actually ended up, erm, self adjusting Barely rub at all now.

Think you'll know Marc, we're a bit further along than the current posts prelude

Didn't want to spoil or give anything away.

Self adjusting sounds good, less work for me to do!

Have you now got extra sipes in the tyres on the edge?!

Saltlick said:

Have you now got extra sipes in the tyres on the edge?!

Click to expand...

Takes a bit more than a bir of 1.5mm ally to slice the armor of the Cooper STT.

This thread is awesome nice work!

toms3 said:

This thread is awesome nice work!

Click to expand...

More to come

Test fitting my new winch bumper.





Will be fitted fully with the winch after the welding has been tackled, just have to elongate the mounting holes a little for a better fit but I am very pleased with it.

Also thought it a good idea to remove the rear bumper for a better look at the chassis and rear body cross members too, Chassis is perfect but the rear body cross member requires some remedial work to ensure it lasts a few more years.





Now, getting the rear bumper off was interesting as it had to be cut off on one side due to an impact of some kind by a previous owner that had bent the mounting for the bumper, will need to straighten this out and remove the bolt before the 300 Tdi rear bumper can go on.



I have opted to use the later bumper for now, as I want to have rear lights in the bumper and because I have it, bonus here is that I can fit the new loom for the bumper lights ahead of the new H/D bumper that I want which will have lights in also.

I removed that thing most of us know as a mud plough, others call them tow bars



Even found and unplugged the proper LR wiring loom for it too

Then on to the more enjoyable task of.......

You guessed it cutting out the rot and welding in new metal, couple of patches on the rear cross member is all that was needed





And one right in the middle above the bracket bolts for the plough :lol:



Then all sealed over and now painted in a snazzy red hammerite No.1





So not much left to finish the back end off completely, just the wiring harness for the bumper lights and then fit the 300Tdi rear bumper for now and can call the back end done

Bumper fitting time, needed to get the bracket off the chassis first and see how bad it was bent, no less than 5 penny washers as spacers under there to hold it away from the corner of the body



Apply heat to gas mark 8 and watch it glow,



Then repeatedly bash a piece of thick wall pipe through the gap between the body mount and chassis body mount until it yields as straight as it is going to.





Then offer up the bumper to see if it fits.



Bingo we have a winner, now the plastic tread plate can be re-fitted with a bit of silicone and a few rivets as I hate those plastic clip things with a passion and job done for tonight



I will do a full walk through for fitting the relays on an 200 series Disco that does not have the lights in the bumper originally, all will be revealed.

Think I will borrow your rivets and sealant tip as about to refit my rear bumper after doing the rear cross member o mine!! Thank you

300Tdi bumper fitted and now it is on to the wiring up of the lights.

For those that don't know, if you intend on running the extra lamps on an earlier 200Tdi and don't want the trailer lamp and/or buzzer going off every time you indicate you need to wire them in with a relay for each indicator lamp, this is how I did mine.

This is basically the bottom back of the looms from my old 300 series V8, you need the wiring and plugs for the lamps and a bit of spare cable.



The relay needs a live feed from the battery and an earth, I chose to run a cable direct from the battery under the body and entering the rear at the light units, this feed will have a 10A inline fuse in it too.



Next you have to find the wires from the multi plug on the back of the light cluster, easy really as they are the same as the colored cables in the lower loom, green with white stripe for the indicators and red with an orange stripe for the side lights, and the black wires are earths, I chose to pluck the terminals out and bare the wires back and solder in the connecting wire for the side light and the trigger wire for the relay, small wrap of tape to insulate them a little.





The earths are mounted to the body via one of the old M8 bolt holes that would have been used for the dickie seats in the rear.



I had loads of the old relay holders from the 300series and used one her with a small strip of tin riveted to the body with a smear of silicone to seal it and job done, you can see the small inline fuse at the bottom, the cable from the battery will go into a new fuse box when I rebuild the inner wing that side and will have further protection there.



And all working as it should, and no trailer light warning lamp to be seen.



The connections for the relay goes as follows

30= 12V live
86= earth
85= trigger wire from existing L/R indicator
87= supply wire to new indicator

I would like to thank Western for the very good diagram that can be found HERE It was an enormous help when I needed it.