Time consuming and laborious is all I can say about last nights work, the wiring up of the new relay boxes.

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This is the little distribution block that will feed it from the 35mm² cable that will come from the aux battery.

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This fuse and relay box will house the relays for RH dippe & RH full beam, air horns, light bar and the fuel filter heater.

I have a second box that will be fitted for the LH dipped & full beam relays and the roof bar lamps when fitted.
 
You need to adjust your computer mate - I'm sure that's written in mandarin??
No instructions came with it :(

Been a bit of make it up as I go along, all power cables are 30A rated to the relays feeds are 15A rated post 10A fuses except for the light bar and fuel filter heater which are 30A rated on 20A fuses, getting there but its a mission :)
 
No instructions came with it :(

Been a bit of make it up as I go along, all power cables are 30A rated to the relays feeds are 15A rated post 10A fuses except for the light bar and fuel filter heater which are 30A rated on 20A fuses, getting there but its a mission :)

Nope, not a clue. I know what a ignition live feed is and that a cig lighter is 12v. That's all. So when it comes to wiring my gizzmos I know you know :D:D
 
So I assume this aux battery is charged by your new shiny alternator and all your lighting etc is running on its own system via the new relays and boxes above? Like the fact that you don't just bodge and do it properly!
 
So I assume this aux battery is charged by your new shiny alternator and all your lighting etc is running on its own system via the new relays and boxes above? Like the fact that you don't just bodge and do it properly!
Exactly!

The aux battery is there to serve two purposes, to run the accessories and to form the power bank for the winch.

My idea is to keep the main vehicle wiring separate, upgraded here and there but in the main it needs to remain uncomplicated and reliable.

All accessories are to be powered by the aux battery and fed from the 100A second alternator as a stand alone circuit, it will also serve as backup should a fault ever occur I will be able to switch circuits very easily and just keep trucking.

I had incredibly outlandish ideas of a 200A alternator that I could double up as a welder but it complicated things in terms of mounting and also the spare parts side of things, it would have been an American manufactured unit which could run into trouble if they stop production and there are no spares here in the UK for example, then the mount would have been a custom 1 off, no drama, I could build it but then I'd need to alter it for a different alternator in the future, the route I went with using a kit from Gwyn Lewis was by far the most sensible, uses 100% all genuine LR parts apart from the actual mount that sits on the timing case which means ease of spares from the belt idler to the crank pulley everything can be bought over the counter should I ever have problems in the future.

I would still like an onboard welder but a PTO driven unit would be better and more robust long term but probably never gonna happen :(

I do try to make a proper job of stuff, not always easy I admit but it makes you feel better knowing you did it right and that there will be no comebacks in the future like a fire from burnt out cables.

It's nice to know that the attention to detail doesn't go unnoticed. :cool: :D
 
Nope, not a clue. I know what a ignition live feed is and that a cig lighter is 12v. That's all. So when it comes to wiring my gizzmos I know you know :D:D
If there is one thing you must do it is to install relays in the headlight wiring loom, a million miles better with full power getting to the lamps :cool:

You have enough welding for now though ;)

How bad was the chassis behind them top shock mounts?
 
I don't know yet mate as my impact sockets are walkies :eek: I ordered a 27mm for now off ebay but will probably get a fresh set when I bit more flush. Might even get a ratchet spanner Halfords advanced full set with the impacts up to 30 when half price and relegate mine to an onboard toolbox. The steel is here now. 3MM is far thicker than it sounds lol. Just been making a sender cover whilst waiting for socket. No work on it this weekend :(

Like the idea of all that running separately then an emergency flick over if your existing fails. I will look into it but like you say plenty to do before that!
 
I do love a make work for myself project :rolleyes:

Decided go to go full on OCD today and do a strip & cable tidy exercise while doing the relay box, much happier now :D

Fitted the box and the tags on the tails tell me what's what with the bundles.

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Start soldering and heat shrinking the connections, this was the first of many and was in fact the air horn feed wire :)

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All the connections made and the earths collected and soldered into an eye terminal and bolted to the inner wing.

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The two holes in the inner wing top are from the old fuse board where it was removed, I've blasted it from both sides with primer and will pop a blanking plug in each then paint with stone chip for protection.

This is the rough sketch I have that will help me create the legend for the inside of the lid, gotta know which one to poke an prod when something goes pop ;)

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Still got a few bits to finish but I'm really happy with how this is working out, nice tidy install, even if I do say so myself :D :cool:
 
Just placed an £85 order with YRM for new rear mudflap brackets, needed them for a while and thought it was about time I get them sorted before winter sets in.

Trying to figure out what went wrong with the RH headlamps as now they don't work since I had my cable tidy up last weekend :(
 
Can you check the 12v line back to the relay? Check Earth on the relay too.

Got 12v to the relay, 12v triggers from the switches, they do share a common earth and this has been remade twice now but still no power to the accessory :oops:

Guess it is going to be the perfect excuse to fit the relay box on the side of the car now.

I ordered a new distribution block and a few other odds and sods to sort out the the cable mass at the aux battery.

Distribution block to enable me to move some feeds around and keep it tidy under the bonnet.

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Midi fuses and holder that will provide a bit of overload protection should any of the bigger feed cables ever have an issue.

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If yu have 12v to relay, the problem is indicative of the relay not switching. Either because relay is suspect, or earths aren’t connected properly. Take a wire from the relay Earth directly to battery ground and see if that makes any difference?
 
If yu have 12v to relay, the problem is indicative of the relay not switching. Either because relay is suspect, or earths aren’t connected properly. Take a wire from the relay Earth directly to battery ground and see if that makes any difference?

I feel like Hercule Poirot, mystery now solved :)

Like a prat, I forgot to connect the earth to the lamp connector and you can have all the power you want but if there is no earth, it ain't gonna work :oops:
 

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