pipes all bent and ready to go on but cant get the flaring right, more practice needed I think?
anyone know the best tool to use? im currently trying with the sealey type pic attached, its areal pain in the arse to get right??

images.jpg

If you are using cupronickel flaring should be easy. First you need to know if you need a double flare or a single flare. Look at the old pipes. Also Land rover use a tube nut that is flat at the nose so the back of the flare is square. Best to use new tube nuts which don't use a flat backed flare. Look at the mandrel you are using. At the thick end there is a ring the height of that should be used as a guide as to how far the pipe sits above the face of the tool. A fraz more is ok but don't go any less than the height of the ring. Make sure the end of the pipe is clean and square. Place in tool use height gauge to determine protrusion then tighten clamp. This must be very tight fingers just won't do the job use a pair of grips to tighten it. Then put mandrel into pipe and apply flaring clamp to it. Tighten down until it will go no further. Remove clamp and you should have a single flare. If you need a double flare remove mandrel and re apply flaring clamp to pipe and tighten down. Remove clamp and you will have a double flare. Male tube nuts usually use a single flare, female tube nuts usually use a double flare.
 
cheers wammers

yes its cupronickel, pretty much been following your advice but I gathered the squareness of the end was crucial as the mandrel doesn't sit square if not and just follows the angle its sat at as you tighten. got loads of spare pipe so practice makes perfect!!
 
cheers wammers

yes its cupronickel, pretty much been following your advice but I gathered the squareness of the end was crucial as the mandrel doesn't sit square if not and just follows the angle its sat at as you tighten. got loads of spare pipe so practice makes perfect!!

If you are cutting the pipe with a cutting tool it should be square. Just clean any bares from inside it and a light file to take the sharp edge off the lip and it should be fine.
 
Finally managed to get on with this task over the weekend, not been able to get near it cos of Xmas, whole family's been ill for weeks and the good old British weather!

So update on progress,

All new pipes are in and tightened up, just the bleeding process to do now! Not a bad job at all in the end just time consuming. Flaring of pipes was a bit of a pig but just needed the correct tool and a bit of patience! I'll try and po St some pics before it all gets hidden again!

Thanks once again for all the help/info you guys gave much appreciated.
 
another update on progress

brakes have been bled twice using the rave procedure, after first bleed all was well no fault lights at all until next morning when the abs fault was back on the dash, so bled them again all was well again no faults.
I checked it yesterday and the faults was back again!!!!!
couldn't get near it to bleed again till this morning but when I started the engine there were no faults? I've checked it half a dozen times since and no faults?

is this normal? can it take a few attempts to bleed all the air out of the system.

thanks as always guys!!

tony
 
Check the brake stop light switch on the pedal it may need adjusting by holding the brake pedal down and pulling the plunger on the switch out (it has a ratchet system on it )and then letting the pedal return and that should adjust it.
 
Yep followed the procedure on rave to the letter, twice!

Got in it this morning and no fault, had to move her this morning so left her running for about 10 mins whilst I shuttled back and forward on the drive.
fault came on after about 5 mins of running.

I think there's still air in the system??
 
Yep followed the procedure on rave to the letter, twice!

Got in it this morning and no fault, had to move her this morning so left her running for about 10 mins whilst I shuttled back and forward on the drive.
fault came on after about 5 mins of running.

I think there's still air in the system??
How often does the pump run?
 
Yep followed the procedure on rave to the letter, twice!

Got in it this morning and no fault, had to move her this morning so left her running for about 10 mins whilst I shuttled back and forward on the drive.
fault came on after about 5 mins of running.

I think there's still air in the system??

Bad brake switch can cause that problem.
 
you mean the switch mentioned by ovalandrover wammers??

Brake switch has two actions. One set of contacts are made when brake is off other set open circuit. When brake is pressed these two portions swap senses. The contacts that are closed or made when the brake is off go open circuit and the one that was open circuit is made or goes closed circuit. These two portions must swap senses as the brake is applied and released. If the switch is not adjusted correctly or the switch becomes faulty having both portions open or closed at the same time will bring on the warning ABS fault.
 
right getting seriously ****ed with this one now!!!
so I've bled the brake system again following the rave procedure and no faults afterwards, took for a test drive and after 10mins driving still no faults, then as I turned into our street hit an uneven bit of the road traction light came on followed by abs fault.
now abs fault is back on the message centre all the time!!

:mad::mad::mad:
 
Badly seated sensor or pickup ring damage....wobbly wheel bearings can throw errors
 
diagnostic results 5 faults in all as follows

1) Front left wheel – ABS sensor air gap too wide

2) Front left air suspension – signal faulty

3) No voltage at ECU Pin 1 when ignition on

4) Break Switch Failure

5) Pressure Warning Switch


all have been reset so now need a test drive to see if all is well??

any explanations from the experts that is landyzone??
 
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Hi, the reset will not resolve the problems,I think that you will need to fix the troubles highligted by the diagnostics first.
 
that's why I asked for some explanations of the faults last night?

which one do I tackle first?
does fault 1 mean the sensor is goosed? there's no movement in it, solid so I don't think its moved?

just need some guidance on where to start.
 

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