engine out!!!!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
G

gavbriggs

Well-Known Member
Posts
5,861
Location
Sheffield uk
righty boys, got the engine out, damn gearbox bolts are a **** to get to, one on the drivers side bout a quater of the way from top centre, had to rig uo an elaborate set of extensions but the air ratchet was the main help.

took me about six hours to get it all out, not really rushing tho and lots of tea and fag breaks.

i can recomend the use of a ramp and overhead block and tackle! oh and an old broom handle makes a very good torque converter location holding tool just wedge it in there!

will chuck some pics on later of the block and slipped liners, looks like 1 3 and 5 are gone in stages with 1 bieng the worst!:cool:
 
well done mate,im half way there in pulling mine out,yet to jam the torque convertor,about 5 bolts left on the gearbox,trolly jack sat under the box at the moment,fuel line to disconnect engine mounts and then lift it,then i can get the drive plate and flywheelof and start replacing seals.i take it you jammed the broomstick in the round inspection plate on the bottom of the box
 
yep, thats where the broom goes, if your doing it close to floor cut it down a bit and jam in it with a block if needed.

have you removed the bolt for the oil cooler pipes under the engine mount on pass side and all the wires that run under engine. i checked about 5 times to make sure nothing was trapped!
 
Nice to see you boys are getting down and dirty during this "Holiday" instead of taking the missus and kids to Skeggie or Whitley Bay.
At least you will have a nice big hole where the lump used to be.
Prepare yourself for a drop of ATF when you do the split, best bet is to pop round Lidl and get a couple of bags of cheap Cat Litter to soak it up, unless you are doing the job in the living room, in which case "Her Indoors" will mop it up.
Check the drive plate for cracks and replace if necessary or if in doubt and check flywheel ring gear teeth for wear.
Gav, if you are just replacing the block etc, check the rocker shafts for wear, you will have to strip them down to see it because they wear on the bottom-cheap as chips to replace..do the rockers & push rods etc. at the same time.
I must increase my shareholding in Swarfega next week!! Good luck guys..keep us posted:tea::smokin:
 
atf fluid? either mine has none or it stayed put! not a drop came out and i wasnt gentle. the torque converter is still in the box though!

ooh, andy forgot to mention. to get at the torque converter you will need to move the bolt hole to the side of the sump, dont bother trying at the access plate opening at the bottom as when you get the bolts further out the ratchet will get stuck! no prizes for guessing how i found this gem:frusty:

also use a 22mm(or 24mm) spanner on the crank nut to turn the converter and then when converter bolt is the right place wedge a long screw driver through the ring of the spanner and onto the front crossmember and the steering damper that way you can yank the converter bolt to slacken it!
 
Last edited:
mine doesn,t have that access plate,so ive just removed the sump oil and strainer which made it easier to get at the bolts on the drive plate,i think ive got all the mounting bolts,a lot of touchy feely went on in there.

i got a new driveplate john along with a load of other bits from island 4x4,cheaper than rpi they want £50 for a plate only cost me £18 from island,anyway a bit of breakfast then back at it,no doubt something will rise it,s ugly head today
 
Best thing to do is wear a pair of dark glasses so you can't see too much. Getting Her Indoors motivated to wash the oily bits in White Spirits is the hard part. Have to buy her a proper parts washer for our anniversary.
 
Hi Gav...are they the flanged head bolts (10 of 'em)?? If so, they are M10X35long and 8.8 tensile stamped on the head.
Dont have my laptop with the EPC with me because I am over here in the UK, but looked on Atlantic British (Yankee site) and they show them as part no. FS110251 -cost around $2.60 ea but should be cheaper over here. In any event, there's nothing to stop you using a ordinary 8.8 tensile hex.bolt with a flat washer as it needs to be reassembled using Lock & seal anyway. Just check the thread pitch is not fine pattern.
Shout if I can help further......Good luck
 
Rimmer Bros. are showing it as Part SS607120, qty 6. They go through a disc which sandwiches the flex plate to the crank. They are looking for around £2 each. There is a drawing on their site which jogged my memory so forget about the details on my previous mail (Ref. FS110251)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Land Rover 300tdi clutch not disengaging after engine out
Replies
8
Views
2K
miktdish
miktdish
F
P38A 97 P38 Gems - EAS issue which seems to have expanded
2 3 4
Replies
79
Views
7K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Wee dregor
Cracked cylinder bore
2
Replies
38
Views
3K
Wee dregor
Wee dregor
markdfoster
1998 v8 Petrol & LPG 3.5Carbarettor,110 Defender Starting issue
Replies
18
Views
2K
Palagius
Palagius
Montyjohn
Is an engine replacement in a 4.6 P38 a complicated job?
2 3 4
Replies
60
Views
5K
Datatek
Datatek
Back
Top