P38A WTF just Happenned?

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Iainl123

Iainl123

Member
Posts
28
Location
Coussac Bonneval - Limoges - France
Hi guys,

I'm not new to the forums and have used the pages and tapped your collective expertise when I was working on my series 3, I've recently bought a p38 RR as I fancied a new toy, it's a low spec 2.5dt with comprehensive history but high miles.

Apart from the fact I've always wanted one, I bought the car as I'm spending a few months working in France and I wanted something that wasn't my van to drive whilst I was out here.

When it arrived this week I was chuffed, all as described, all working, and pretty tidy for it's age, the air springs went up and down exactly as I had read they should, then this morning I noticed that the drivers side of the car was lurched (slightly) and it wasn't sat Level. I got in and started it, no faults, no messages and the air suspension dif it's thing like I expected it to, it seemed only to be truly Flat and level when on the motorway setting, in normal it seemed a but lopsided.

I've just done a 100km round trip to the airport and during the last half of the journey was aware of what sounded like the tyre rubbing on the wheel arch when I cornered, and the car listed over on the drivers side again (it's a uk spec rhd) all of a sudden i got the 35mph max warning along with eas fault and was literally bounced out of the seat as the car hit the deck.

I've driven the last 30km at 15mph and having my bones shaken out of my body.

I have no idea where to start with it, I have no diag tools, and being in France I'm conscious that my language skills don't extend to diagnosing or explaining the specifics of what happenned to a local mechanic. I'd like to know what to start reading up on before I take it to a garage/dealer.

Any advice, as always is much appreciated.
 
So I've let the car cool down a little, it's very hot out here today 30+ degrees, I popped the bonnet with the engine running and put my hand to the eas compressor, it was incredibly hot to the touch and didn't feel like it was running (I presume there would be both sound and vibration when running) I still have the 35mph eas warning on the dash and all of the ride height switch button lights are illuminated.
 
A previous long standing member called Datatek lives in France (he is a UK defector :D) he seldom visits this forum now, but I believe if contacted via a PM he responds.

He used to make EAS diagnostic cables for sale and many of the members have one (me included) and this will help you diagnose the system and read fault codes.

Chief suspect would be one of the air bags has a leak and the compressor has ocerheated trying to keep the system full of air.

With the 35mph message on the display means it has gone into hard fault and only diagnostics will a) help you readthe fault code and b) get the system back working again.

My cable when purchased a couple of years ago was about £17.

If the P38 is going to be a long term purchase best to invest in a Nanocom from Blackbox Solutions, this is one of the best ddiagnostic tools around for the Range Rover.

Take a good look at the air bags...they have a lofe of 8/9 years so if original they are now on there last legs.
 
HI Saint, Thanks for your post,

I will drop datatek a Pm - am i right in thinking i will need some form of software for this lead?

I had started this morning (after seeing one rearside corner sat low) hoping that it needed a sensor calibration, now im completely bamboozled.

She has been sat for over an hour in the shade, Ive taken out and reinserted the EAS relay and started her up, the front suspension on both sides rose instantly, like you would expect it too, and i can now hear and feel the compressor working when i put my hand to it, I still have the EAS fault dash message but the 35MPH max warning is no longer displayed.

The rear suspension has not risen at all, and even with the front risen the compressor is running and the ride height switch lights are all illuminated.

have i had a faulty airbag on the rear drivers side which has caused the compressor to overheat and the thremostatic switch to cut it out? has driving on bump stops shagged the rear airbags and thats why they wont inflate? or is it simply an air sensor issue??

I appreicate no one can give me definitive answers without seeing the car etc but you all have a fantastic wealth of info, i really dont want this to be terminal, the car was only cheap and so I dont want to throw loads of money at it.

Iain
 
My guess is that the airline to one of your rear bags was rubbing when cornering and has worn through. As Saint said, fix the leak and clear the code and it will be OK. It might be a bag but the fact it was rubbing when cornering leads me to think it's the airline. If it's long enough, you can just cut and re-insert into the bag, if not you'll need a joint (push fit, available from any good hardware supplier)
The lead could be made up yourself if you're any good with a soldering iron and can get the plugs, and the software is freely downloadable.
 
Hmm, thats interesting, Ive just gotten underneath the (most)affected corner (driver side rear) and the ride height sensor isnt attached, one of the fittings is broken and the other two are missing, also the sensor is completely different to the other side and it doesnt actually look like its the right one for the car. I have fired the car up and the compressor runs, but i can hear no air (which presumably i would do if the air line was broken?)

Iain
 
Think you found the issue. If the height sensor is not within an expected range it willthrow a fault.

You need 4 working height sensors. In the Technical Section look for a How To from Wammers on troubleshooting the EAS system.
 
Iainl123 said:
Hmm, thats interesting, Ive just gotten underneath the (most)affected corner (driver side rear) and the ride height sensor isnt attached, one of the fittings is broken and the other two are missing, also the sensor is completely different to the other side and it doesnt actually look like its the right one for the car. I have fired the car up and the compressor runs, but i can hear no air (which presumably i would do if the air line was broken?)

Iain
Click to expand...
If there's no air in the system, you won't hear air escaping as the compressor is only very low volume.
Right, with a broken height sensor and no diagnostics, I'd be thinking about getting some schraeder valves and trying to manually inflate the bags. If there's no leaks, this will get you home then we can help you getting it working properly again.
 
Thanks guys, I've hastily reattached the ride height sensor, but no joy, the plastic trunking was full of water when i disconnected the wires from the actual sensor to reattach it but guess its some kind of sealed unit so that shouldnt be making any difference (not like these things werent designed to get wet). I think as a starting point ill limp it to a local garage and get them to run diags and change out the sensor(s).

will be back, soon!

Iain
 
Iainl123 said:
Thanks guys, I've hastily reattached the ride height sensor, but no joy, the plastic trunking was full of water when i disconnected the wires from the actual sensor to reattach it but guess its some kind of sealed unit so that shouldnt be making any difference (not like these things werent designed to get wet). I think as a starting point ill limp it to a local garage and get them to run diags and change out the sensor(s).

will be back, soon!

Iain
Click to expand...
You'll need a good independent garage or main dealers to read the eas system. Many garage diagnostics won't do anything but the standard obd2 codes
 
fortunately there is a LR main dealer about 50 mins away from here, but i wouldn't look forward to the journey, i can order the sensor myself from Craddocks and fit it as it seems fairly straight forward but then i still have the issue of calibrating it and getting the fault codes cleared.

Iain
 
Iainl123 said:
fortunately there is a LR main dealer about 50 mins away from here, but i wouldn't look forward to the journey, i can order the sensor myself from Craddocks and fit it as it seems fairly straight forward but then i still have the issue of calibrating it and getting the fault codes cleared.

Iain
Click to expand...
Main dealers will be expensive but they should be able to do it OK. When I had my duff sensor on mine last week, it sort of half worked. It went up at startup but then would fault. Once it faulted, it would only go down to level itself until the code was cleared.
If I were you, I'd get a new sensor fitted and see what happens. The fault may still show but it might work enough to make the journey to the stealers bearable.
I ordered my sensors from island 4x4. They deliver to Europe no problem, got a load of stuff sent to Czech Republic a couple of months ago.
 
Have you looked at the pump itself. Remove the end filter by screwing anticlockwise & hold your finger over thew hole while the pump is running.
You should feel the suction. If there's no suction suspect a weak piston seal in the pump. Quick & easy fix if this is the cuplrit.
As for the sensors, they were working. I can't see three of them breaking off all at once.
 
Rick-the-Pick said:
Have you looked at the pump itself. Remove the end filter by screwing anticlockwise & hold your finger over thew hole while the pump is running.
You should feel the suction. If there's no suction suspect a weak piston seal in the pump. Quick & easy fix if this is the cuplrit.
As for the sensors, they were working. I can't see three of them breaking off all at once.
Click to expand...
I haven't tried the compressor filter trick, will have a play it seems a strange coincidence to me go have had one corner drooping earlier today, and then the eas flipping out totally and then find the drooping corner sensor hanging off. also the front raised and held level so I'm guessing the compressor is working properly?

As a side not what amount of engine coolant needs to go into the coolant system? I'm thinking of adding waterless coolant as she seems to be getting warm and I think it might be worth a try.

That is again all,

Iain.
 
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