Wiring Light bar, help required.

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hehe, just kidding.

if you are planning to string the top lights together, then make sure the wires can handle the current and the single wire running down can handle it too. like a 4mm cable size.

if the light wires can't handle it, then don't string them.

and he said use a RELAY (i can't stress how important this is) if you link it to the cig lighter you probably set fire to the wires/ to the landy.

edit: ah cool, looks like i misread it and you are using the diagram with the relay :)
 
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Mr Noisy said:
Pm replied

Your super simple diagram is comedy but you got the jist

As per pm, soldering is the only decent way to do this job, crimps are just about acceptable

Also regards the permanent live question, I disagree

Your landy is wired so the lights can be used with the ignition off, your aux circuits IMO should be selected by purpose

For instance my air locker solenoids are ignition switched so that the diffs unlock when you turn the engine off, wouldn't wanna leave them locked when not driving, just wasting air.

Same with heated screen, but that's because that bad boy would pull serious amps at low voltage so only wants to be used with the engine running

The lights however are useful for use when camping, the heater fan might be handy to keep the screen clear when parked, etc etc

Think carefully about how you will use each circuit

I did! :p

Click to expand...

Where to start with all the red wires! That looks confusing lol.
 
I have a full wiring kit including a 30 amp relay, im 99% sure now how im wiring it its just getting the spots wired down into the engine bay that im stuck on, particularly as the spots have lives with bullet connectors on the end. My relay is practically set up under the bonnet, the earth is attached to the bodywork and will also be ran down the lights as well and attached to the negative on the battery. Link from the spots to the switch in the dash is ready to go through the grommet in the bulkhead and the live is ready to hook up to the battery all off the relay, just need to connect the spots up to the relay and wire the switch in the cab.
 
brettguise said:
I have a full wiring kit including a 30 amp relay, im 99% sure now how im wiring it its just getting the spots wired down into the engine bay that im stuck on, particularly as the spots have lives with bullet connectors on the end. My relay is practically set up under the bonnet, the earth is attached to the bodywork and will also be ran down the lights as well and attached to the negative on the battery. Link from the spots to the switch in the dash is ready to go through the grommet in the bulkhead and the live is ready to hook up to the battery all off the relay, just need to connect the spots up to the relay and wire the switch in the cab.
Click to expand...

excellent :)

if you want to keep the connectors on the lights to make it easy to replace, then you could run the single wire along the bar, and solder y joints with female bullets with some shrink.

you could crimp loops with female bullets, even a covered terminal block.

noisy looks good at this, i'd do what he says :D

(though i disagree about solder vs crimps for everything :p )
 
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So single wire along bar and solder the lights along the way.

Crimp loops with female bullets? Id like to be able to unplug lights if need be but soldering obviously then they are fixed unless the wires are cut.

x537d.png
 
brettguise said:
So single wire along bar and solder the lights along the way.

Crimp loops with female bullets? Id like to be able to unplug lights if need be but soldering obviously then they are fixed unless the wires are cut.
Click to expand...

yup for the soldered on one you did.

second pic is bullets. just an idea, female bullets on the larger single wire

third pic is me going.. woaah, be careful man!

8cwjXzZ.png
 
trax said:
yup for the soldered on one you did.

second pic is bullets. just an idea, female bullets on the larger single wire

third pic is me going.. woaah, be careful man!

8cwjXzZ.png
Click to expand...

So in other words bullets crimped to a stub of wire, stub of wire soldered to the long wire then I can unplug if needed? Its a shame there isn't a T bullet that the wire runs through but then there's a female bullet on the tip of the t to plug into.

I will think of the picture when messing with it next ;)
 
brettguise said:
So in other words bullets crimped to a stub of wire, stub of wire soldered to the long wire then I can unplug if needed? Its a shame there isn't a T bullet that the wire runs through but then there's a female bullet on the tip of the t to plug into.

I will think of the picture when messing with it next ;)
Click to expand...

no need to use a stub, just use the long wire going to the relay. you can bare a couple cm at a time, bend it, shove into bullet, then crimp using the tool. yellow crimp bullets should take it. i'd then stick silicon grease all over it to stop it corroding. plain crimps won't last long in the rain.

but see what noisy says, his work looks neater than mine :D
 
Trax that is comedy again

Awesome

If you use uninsulated bullets you could get 2 ends of fat wire in

Otherwise maybe use a double connector jobby

Cheap and ideal

VWP - multiconnectors

Go for the MC2 on that page

Oh and absorb the whole website, helps you plan builds if you know what you can buy!
 
Vaseline like trax says is the answer for exterior stuff

Unless you wana get into superseal connectors

Used them for the MS but for lights and stuff I just go cheap and use multiconnects and Vaseline :p
 
Mr Noisy said:
Sorry double connects suitable for pos and neg like I mentioned on pm

Better to run good earth to everything IMO at the expense if doubling wire cost
Click to expand...

next time i get earthing issues on this old harness, i'm thinking about making a few earthing points on the entire fender and using term blocks with everything running to them.
 
trax said:
no need to use a stub, just use the long wire going to the relay. you can bare a couple cm at a time, bend it, shove into bullet, then crimp using the tool. yellow crimp bullets should take it. i'd then stick silicon grease all over it to stop it corroding. plain crimps won't last long in the rain.

but see what noisy says, his work looks neater than mine :D
Click to expand...

I quite like that idea. Would moly grease do? Is that safe exposed to the elements.
 
brettguise said:
I quite like that idea. Would moly grease do? Is that safe exposed to the elements.
Click to expand...

moly is conductive afaik. so if you use it, don't use it where it can run onto some other metal part and make a short. Vaseline is poor mans silicon grease :D

btw, i only crimp using a crimp tool, not pliers. i've never seen a long lasting pliered crimp..well one that didn't pull off when i tugged it :)
 
Mr Noisy said:
Your landy is wired so the lights can be used with the ignition off
Click to expand...

and its a stupid idea :D

If you are wiring them off a 2nd battery then it doesnt matter but if you only run one battery then its much wiser to run them off a ignition feed IMO. There is no reason to want to have the roof lights on and not have the engine running ????

End of the day I would much rather have to have the ignition on than be stranded somewhere with a flat battery.
 
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