Wiring Light bar, help required.

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pontyslapper said:
Trax - I don't believe I did - it all works, mind.

Why would I need a relay for a simple setup like that - bearing in mind I was thinking back to my GCSE days and a few lessons we had on simple circuits.
Click to expand...

Because the relay can probably carry more current than your switch, so will probably a, give you brighter lights and b,not fail burn out or set on fire
 
I shall look into relays on the weekend - shouldn't be too hard to splice one in under the bonnet as the wiring is quite accessible where I routed it.
 
pontyslapper said:
Trax - I don't believe I did - it all works, mind.

Why would I need a relay for a simple setup like that - bearing in mind I was thinking back to my GCSE days and a few lessons we had on simple circuits.
Click to expand...

i'm not sure how you've wired it up, but it sounds like you've ran it to an existing lighting wire. so if you turn everything on it could overload the original wire.

so i'd be concerned about that much current going into the dash and switch and also if the orig wire is rated for it. If it isn't rated and you turn everything on, then it could burn/catch fire/ movie style explode destroying cities.

One of the reasons for lots of relays in modern cars is to keep high current from going inside the dash for safety iirc.
 
Jam1 said:
Or even easier with one three way on/off/on switch:
6a4b05680c0d049c040fb095aaa67110.jpg
Click to expand...

So If I was to have the relay under the bonnet, put the live into the relay from the battery and the spots into the relay then run a wire through the bulkhead next to the steering column, into a three way switch then on that three way switch needs to be a live from say the cigarette lighter (whats nearer the steering the ignition?) and then a spur from the main beam, that way I can switch it on and it creates the circuit loop with the 12v splice, turn it off and that shuts the connection and if I flick the main beam on that creates the loop and brings them on as well.
 
pontyslapper said:
Trax - I don't believe I did - it all works, mind.

Why would I need a relay for a simple setup like that - bearing in mind I was thinking back to my GCSE days and a few lessons we had on simple circuits.
Click to expand...

What feeds the switch? As if its a normal 1 or 1.5mm cable you find mostly behind the dash sticking 220W through it and thus drawing 20 odd amps is a bonfire waiting to happen :(

Always use a relay for things like lights and motors :)
 
Got all my bits now but the lamps I have have the live feed on a small red style bullet connector, do I have to cut this off as I cant find a double bullet that is small enough to fit the bullet. Basically I need to link the two lives from each pair of lamps then run the live connecting them all together to run one live feed down into the engine bay.
 
Simples

On-off-on switch

Connect one side to permanent live, one side to main beam live, centre pin to positive trigger on relay

Then you can use them on main beam to flash people at tescos and look cool yet also switch them on/of whenever you need for actual driving/laning

This setup is ideal for roof lights
 
Mr Noisy said:
Simples

On-off-on switch

Connect one side to permanent live, one side to main beam live, centre pin to positive trigger on relay

Then you can use them on main beam to flash people at tescos and look cool yet also switch them on/of whenever you need for actual driving/laning

This setup is ideal for roof lights
Click to expand...

That's what Im doing for the switch. Do you know which wire I cut from the main beam arm under the steering column? Im going to run a permanent live from the battery so if need be I don't have to have the ignition on to flick the lights on.

Also any connection recommendations If I do cut these spot light bullets off to connect three wires? Only one I can think off is the scotch block but not heard good things about the blocks.
 
I would avoid running a perminant live as if the switch fails or you inadvertantly switch it on during the day you can come out to the landy with a very flat battery. You should always have the engine running when using any lights as they kill batteries quickly.

Use the blue bullet crimps, you should be able to twist 2 wires together and get them in one crimp.
 
Please see my super simple diagram showing the connections im struggling with on the roof. I was going to connect each pair of lights together and bridge the gaps between bringing it to the one live running down the side of the window. Is this the best way and what connectors as two of the pairs will have 4 connections coming together, or I run all 6 individually to the one wire by the windscreen and connect that way then I would need some sort of connector that takes 6 wires one end and 1 wire another.

Also I will try run it off the cigarette lighter, I will use some garden wire attached to the cable to try and feed it through the back of the dash. Never done interior wiring before!
 

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brettguise said:
Please see my super simple diagram showing the connections im struggling with on the roof. I was going to connect each pair of lights together and bridge the gaps between bringing it to the one live running down the side of the window. Is this the best way and what connectors as two of the pairs will have 4 connections coming together, or I run all 6 individually to the one wire by the windscreen and connect that way then I would need some sort of connector that takes 6 wires one end and 1 wire another.

Also I will try run it off the cigarette lighter, I will use some garden wire attached to the cable to try and feed it through the back of the dash. Never done interior wiring before!
Click to expand...

2s0S2fH.png
 
Pm replied

Your super simple diagram is comedy but you got the jist

As per pm, soldering is the only decent way to do this job, crimps are just about acceptable

Also regards the permanent live question, I disagree

Your landy is wired so the lights can be used with the ignition off, your aux circuits IMO should be selected by purpose

For instance my air locker solenoids are ignition switched so that the diffs unlock when you turn the engine off, wouldn't wanna leave them locked when not driving, just wasting air.

Same with heated screen, but that's because that bad boy would pull serious amps at low voltage so only wants to be used with the engine running

The lights however are useful for use when camping, the heater fan might be handy to keep the screen clear when parked, etc etc

Think carefully about how you will use each circuit

I did! :p

 
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