What have you done to your Freelander today

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Gun gum bodge is holding, no more power loss.
New coolant tank & Haynes manual received.

It was only mot'd in may (before I owned it) & anti roll bars/joints/arms etc are rusted right out on wheel arch side. Not mentioned on advisories the only 1 was front discs. There's a twanging boiiiing sound from the front left when turning left

I also noticed it's had only 1 previous owner before me but I have the original receipt from new & it wasn't the seller I purchased it off. Just means it was never in the sellers name which hopefully isn't too shady.

Tbc..
 
Bute said:
There's a twanging boiiiing sound from the front left when turning left
Click to expand...

I have the same, but from the right. I'm pretty sure it's the top mount.

Bute said:
I also noticed it's had only 1 previous owner before me but I have the original receipt from new & it wasn't the seller I purchased it off. Just means it was never in the sellers name which hopefully isn't too shady.
Click to expand...

Or you bought it from a seller who is a trader.
 
After two-ish months of not being able to open the boot, today I thought I'd tackle the actuator. Before starting I just gave the handle a try and low and behold, the chuffing thing worked. As the door had opened I thought I'd make the most of it - given that it had saved me from struggling in the boot. Trim panel off and copious amounts of white grease and other lubricants all over the shop. With the window cables looking good I've left the panel off and will see how it fares over the next few weeks.
 
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kernowsvenski said:
After two-ish months of not being able to open the boot, today I thought I'd tackle the actuator. Before starting I just gave the handle a try and low and behold, the chuffing thing worked. As the door had opened I thought I'd make the most of it given that it had saved me from struggling in the boot. Trim panel off and copious amounts of white grease and other lubricants all over the shop. With the window cables looking good I've left the panel off and will see how it fairs over the next few weeks.
Click to expand...
That's a result. I've often wondered if the inside panel on the door can be adapted in some way so that it can be removed with the door shut.... for that inevitable day when....
 
GrumpyGel said:
That's a result. I've often wondered if the inside panel on the door can be adapted in some way so that it can be removed with the door shut.... for that inevitable day when....
Click to expand...
It was a result indeed. I was geared up for emptying all my kit over the back seats, climbing in the back and struggling for God knows how long. My spare actuator will stay in the glove box for a bit longer yet.
 
DCUNNINGHAM said:
Don't believe it
The master cylinder is leaking again !!
At the clutch pedal but now my gears are more or less impossible
The clutch arm is fine moves back and forth with no effort 2 fingers
I don't know if there a crap make or there is more to it
They last a couple of days then caput it starts leaking
Click to expand...
I don't know if I've misunderstood this post but there is no way you could move the clutch arm with two fingers except for the bit of free play.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
I don't know if I've misunderstood this post but there is no way you could move the clutch arm with two fingers except for the bit of free play.
Yes that's what I mean it's got free play
Till it goes to clutch so obviously the arm isn't seized
I was told yesterday that the pressure plate could have stiffened over time and that could be blowing the seals in the master cylinder
But I would have thought it would get weaker

Col
Click to expand...
 
I've done nothing on the Freelander in ages. However, last evening I did spend 3 hours changing a front ABS sensor and rear brake pads on a Mazda MX5. The ABS sensor on those is just as difficult to change as a Freelander, where bolts snap of and a large hammer is needed to extract the thing. That's 3 hours of my life I'll not see back. :mad:
It makes me smile, knowing the Freelander is behaving itself for the moment. :D
 
DCUNNINGHAM said:
I'm in to minds now to change the clutch or drive it and see if it leaks again but then if it does it's more expense I just can't understand why the slave doesn't break instead of the master
Also the gearbox looks hard to remove lol
Click to expand...
Take a look at this for a list of things to do.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-change-in-a-td4-list-of-jobs-to-do.315242/
This is for a TD4 but most of the stuff is the same.
Not for the faint hearted but do-able in a weekend.

This has some more relevant info.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/k-series-clutch-replacement.296104/
 
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Alibro said:
Take a look at this for a list of things to do.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-change-in-a-td4-list-of-jobs-to-do.315242/
This is for a TD4 but most of the stuff is the same.
Not for the faint hearted but do-able in a weekend.

This has some more relevant info.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/k-series-clutch-replacement.296104/
Click to expand...
I was thinking take the lot out in one lump and split plus I could line the clutch up better
Thanks for the link A
 
Soft top turned up today needs a repair to the zips and a good clean but seems everything is there other than the red key which it was advertised with:mad:
 
A 60 mile round trip today ended with the tell tale whooshing of an intercooler hose giving up. I'd done the elbow a couple of years ago so was fairly sure that the longer hose had gone. Managed to complete the last few smokey miles and get to the local LR dealer who had one on the shelf. That's tomorrow afternoon's job determined then! Any tips on getting the lower hose clip off? Looks a PITA to get undone.
 
Nodge68 said:
A sharp chisel and a hammer are used to cut through the clip.
Click to expand...

Cor blimey, that's the way to do it! cheers @Nodge68

Faffed around for about 15 minutes and quickly realised there was no other way I could get the clip off. I did wince - as a boat builder - getting one of my nice sharp chisels out to chop through metal! Straight through though, lovely jubbly. I'll be on the oil stone tomorrow morning mind.

It does make you wonder how LR even manged to assemble with the clip drive in that position!

Also wired up my MGF mirror tonight.
 
Put this in the car yesterday.

IMG_20180728_145058.jpg


Can't knock it for £50. DAB radio with Bluetooth and an SD card slot. Came with an arial, cigarette lighter adapter with 2 power sockets and a USB power cable, and a suction window clamp. Also a line in cable for if you have an aux socket.
Took about 20 minutes to install. Sticking the Arial on took the longest. I also used a USB extension so I could use the power socket on the back of the armrest, but I had that lying around.
Worked straight away with the FM pick-up as I don't have an aux socket. Bluetooth worked first time, plays music well, I haven't tried the calling bit yet.
So I get to keep the original head unit, I just like the look of it, in keeping with the age of the car.
And for anyone who read my post, yes this made me realize my front speakers had packed up, now fixed, but they do need replacing.
Bought it off Amazon on a lightening deal, I think it's nearer £70 normally. Link below before anyone who wants a look.

Cheers
Mike

FirstE 5 in 1 Car DAB/DAB+ Radio Portable FM Transmitter (Crystal Digital Sound+ 2.3" Big LCD Screen Bluetooth Receiver+ Micro SD/TF Card Play+Handsfree Call+5V 2.1A/1.0A Dual USB Car Charger), 3M Antenna Digital Audio Broadcasting Adapter with Wireless 3.5mm Aux Output Bluetooth Car Kits Amazon product
 
Skinny Mike said:
Put this in the car yesterday.

View attachment 154494

Can't knock it for £50. DAB radio with Bluetooth and an SD card slot. Came with an arial, cigarette lighter adapter with 2 power sockets and a USB power cable, and a suction window clamp. Also a line in cable for if you have an aux socket.
Took about 20 minutes to install. Sticking the Arial on took the longest. I also used a USB extension so I could use the power socket on the back of the armrest, but I had that lying around.
Worked straight away with the FM pick-up as I don't have an aux socket. Bluetooth worked first time, plays music well, I haven't tried the calling bit yet.
So I get to keep the original head unit, I just like the look of it, in keeping with the age of the car.
And for anyone who read my post, yes this made me realize my front speakers had packed up, now fixed, but they do need replacing.
Bought it off Amazon on a lightening deal, I think it's nearer £70 normally. Link below before anyone who wants a look.

Cheers
Mike

FirstE 5 in 1 Car DAB/DAB+ Radio Portable FM Transmitter (Crystal Digital Sound+ 2.3" Big LCD Screen Bluetooth Receiver+ Micro SD/TF Card Play+Handsfree Call+5V 2.1A/1.0A Dual USB Car Charger), 3M Antenna Digital Audio Broadcasting Adapter with Wireless 3.5mm Aux Output Bluetooth Car Kits Amazon product
Click to expand...

I like the look of that. If you've got the Becker HU you can get a cheap AUX cable and disconnect the CD changer.
 
kernowsvenski said:
It does make you wonder how LR even manged to assemble with the clip drive in that position!
Click to expand...

The engine, gearbox, suspension and front subframe are all fitted together from below in the factory. So it's very likely the intercooler pipe clips are also tightened from below too. It makes subsequent removal of the clips very interesting.
I cut such clips, just because I can't be bothered removing the sump guard just to release one clip.
 
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Fixed the clutch hydralucs finally.... Also did the brakes disks and pads. Had 95% left on pads and 70% left of disks but they were rusted and groved away. Pads fell apart on emptying and disk needed such a massive sledge hammer attack to get off. But all sorted now and no squeling... Loving the hippo more and more
Quick q. I tightened the caliper bolts to 28nM as the manual says but on other cars I used a threadlocker like red loctit. Do people do this and torque to 25 or no use and leave at 28?
 
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