What have you done to your Freelander today

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I don't know if your car is pre or post 01 but my first Freelander (98) had hopless brakes but both my current ones (02 and 04) have great brakes.
Does anyone know how to upgrade to the newer brake system?
The 1A chassis brakes are better than the early type. They are vented which will reduce fade but crucially, the discs are larger in diameter and the pads have a larger surface area.
Changing to the later system is a straight swap of the discs and calipers. The only thing that complicates things is the wheels. The later setup needs the later wheels to match or the calipers hit the back of the earlier wheels.
From memory, the later servo and master cylinder are different too. I could be wrong on that though.
 
Had an error code saying the cam shaft sensor was faulty. Unplugged it and it was well gunged up. Cleaned off and replaced all good.

After some considerable thought and advice, here and elsewhere, decided to get the IRD heat exchanger replaced. Really not worth the risk.
 
Not just today but over Easter, fitted a new fuel tank cradle, new prop bearings, new rear exhaust box and a new set of tires. Painted the rear sub frame, wheel hubs, suspension assembly and prop shaft.
 
Not just today but over Easter, fitted a new fuel tank cradle, new prop bearings, new rear exhaust box and a new set of tires. Painted the rear sub frame, wheel hubs, suspension assembly and prop shaft.
Busy boy. Well done, feels great getting stuff like that done, gives a real sense of satisfaction. :)
 
Yeah after I replaced both units, on my first time using my right rear window the regulator busted again. .... This time I went with the cheap cable repair kit. Just ordered it. Sigh.
Oh dear... The regulators are crap, aren't they? Once you've fitted the kit, smear the cable with plenty of silicone grease and work it back and forth a bit.
 
Oh dear... The regulators are crap, aren't they? Once you've fitted the kit, smear the cable with plenty of silicone grease and work it back and forth a bit.
Don't forget to silicone lube the window runners too. The cables only fail because the window has got stiff to move.
 
Would we not be better to use a dry graphite lube in those window 'runners'?
I use silicone spray that is a dry lubricant. However plumbers silicone grease also works well and if used sparingly, doesn't cause a problem. It definitely keeps the window much more free and quieter too.
 
Bought a brand new stereo years ago from Craddocks for £9.99 as it had a "surcharge item" sticker on it and they didn't know whether it was a returned faulty item or the new one as someone had opened the Land Rover box. Took a punt on it and turns out it was the brand new one. Been in the spare bedroom for about 4 years. My stereo was playing up - not ejecting the cd's straight away and I was sick of constantly pressing the eject button . Anyway I fitted it today along with a new leather gearstick gaiter.
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Fitted some plate to protect my rear bumper. I go walking a lot and use the bumper for a foot rest. Total cost £3.00 it was an off-cut that I bought at Billing last year. I just had to trim it a little.
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Also fitted a new (second hand) vice in my shed. Got it from a market stall that deals in old tools. An antique for the future. It was originally made by Parkinsons' in Shipley, Yorkshire.
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Yesterday my passenger window mechanism broke on the way to get my windscreen chips sorted. In the end I got the guy to come to my house and do them whilst I stripped the door and removed the mechanism. Upon removal it turns out one of the plastic guides at the end of the rail and broken and bent over, with no other damage I managed to drill through the plastic guide and the runner and re secure it with a small nut and bolt and hey presto it works! For how long I don't know but I'm glad I got it fixed before it chucked it down with rain.
 
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