What have you done to your Freelander today

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4x4Dog said:
Paid for a clutch/DMF/clutch hydraulics to be fitted (£900 all in, including the devil). At 124K the DMF and hydraulics were pretty hoopajooped, even tho there was a bit of meat left on the friction plate. It now shifts gear like a dream.
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I've been quoted £420 +vat without the DMF, he will check it when its in bits...sounds good to me. btw how much extra would a new DMF be if....?? I am at 127.300 miles
 
Had a new pair of drop links fitted today...again!! better quality ones this time, last ones worked for 9 months, and fixed my passenger seat heating by replacing the control module, around £5 from breakers or £15 off the bay, my missus will be pleased in her having her bum warmed now .:p
 
Having made some fuel tank protection out of checker plate - I am going to drill out the rivets on the under engine cover and fit quick release 'D' 1/2 turn mounts and re- make the fibre board bit out of checker plate. Then, the frame can stay in place and 30 secs to get to the service items. Anyone done this?? Looks to be about £45 inc fixings.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Having made some fuel tank protection out of checker plate - I am going to drill out the rivets on the under engine cover and fit quick release 'D' 1/2 turn mounts and re- make the fibre board bit out of checker plate. Then, the frame can stay in place and 30 secs to get to the service items. Anyone done this?? Looks to be about £45 inc fixings.
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I thought about doing something similar with mine as some numpty had damaged it in the past. In the end I just riveted back together as half the time it's not on the car anyway.
 
My protection plate has a cutout below the sump plug. This was there when I bought the car and wasn't exactly impressed tbh. However I found it very useful when I changed the oil!
 
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andyfreelandy said:
Having made some fuel tank protection out of checker plate - I am going to drill out the rivets on the under engine cover and fit quick release 'D' 1/2 turn mounts and re- make the fibre board bit out of checker plate. Then, the frame can stay in place and 30 secs to get to the service items. Anyone done this?? Looks to be about £45 inc fixings.
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I mod'ed mine like this -

My plan has a flaw in it - the cut out for the front exhaust pipe should have been to the right a bit more.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Having made some fuel tank protection out of checker plate - I am going to drill out the rivets on the under engine cover and fit quick release 'D' 1/2 turn mounts and re- make the fibre board bit out of checker plate. Then, the frame can stay in place and 30 secs to get to the service items. Anyone done this?? Looks to be about £45 inc fixings.
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When you do don't suppose you could trace the outline of the fibreboard for me, my car didn't come with one and I'm also looking to make one with checker plate.
 
Rimini-Scott said:
When you do don't suppose you could trace the outline of the fibreboard for me, my car didn't come with one and I'm also looking to make one with checker plate.
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You'll need the framework too. The plastic centre section is just a part of the whole assembly. Unless you have the framework fitted, you'll need a complete unit to modify.
 
I have just bought a 2003 freelander mk1 (2.5L petrol auto). It's pre-facelift, so it has the single dim stereo in it. I really want to rip out the stereo and put an android tablet in its place, but that's hard because it's only a single-dim head unit and I want to use the Google Nexus 7 tablet, which is around 4" high and therefore requires a double dim space.

So, does anyone know if its possible to rip out the whole centre console and replace it with the facelift version from a later model? Obviously, I'd have a professional do the work, because I'm sure I'd mess it up and I don't have the tools or space, but right now I don't even know if its possible. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of this?

TIA
 
Bryan_Nyarlothotep said:
I have just bought a 2003 freelander mk1 (2.5L petrol auto). It's pre-facelift, so it has the single dim stereo in it. I really want to rip out the stereo and put an android tablet in its place, but that's hard because it's only a single-dim head unit and I want to use the Google Nexus 7 tablet, which is around 4" high and therefore requires a double dim space.

So, does anyone know if its possible to rip out the whole centre console and replace it with the facelift version from a later model? Obviously, I'd have a professional do the work, because I'm sure I'd mess it up and I don't have the tools or space, but right now I don't even know if its possible. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of this?

TIA
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It's probably possible but a lot of effort for little gain imho.
I looked into this recently myself. I found that tables make poor car audio systems, at least for my needs. There's no easy was to adjust the volume of the speakers, front to rear easily. You'll need an amplifier to power the speakers or you'll hear nothing. There's no radio which put me off. It's also difficult to make it go on and off with the ignition. So, for me at least, it was a non starter. For a pre-face lift, the extra work of getting a console to fit along with the wiring changes necessary, it's lot of work for little reward. Get a decent Din stereo and save your money to put fuel in the tank instead ;)
 
I changed the rear diff oil this morning. Then spent the afternoon trying to work out why the wife's summer BMW wasn't working correctly.
 
Got under the FL today: Front pipe off to have a crack welded, VCU re-aligned and got rid of an annoying knocking when turning, swapped the oxygen sensor as mine was damaged. I had a good look in the mounting hole and could see that there was welding splatter and a metal sprag poking out which crushed the sensor's 'bulb' when I screwed it in. I used a long fine punch up through each down pipe and chipped away the crap and finished it off with a light grind with trusty Dremel. The replacement went in easily.

Had an irritating grating / creaking for the driver's side rear corner since replacing the springs. Checked the tightness of the top shock nuts, lower sus' ... all good but that noise is still there. I think I hear it when power goes on and off. Any suggestions?
 
I also have a creak/ grone from the nearside rear on large, slow suspension movements. It's like the suspension is moving in little steps, snagging between each step. I suspect a bush or the shock it's self.
 
Changed the IRD oil tonight. The magnoplug had only a small amount of iron powder on it but the oil had a bronze colour which isn't so good. From memory the only bronze items are the diff's planet gear thrust washers. I'll have to keep an eye on it I think. I did dose it with some Molyslip so that will provide some protection for the time being.
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Replaced the VCU and bearings (I was up to 45 seconds on the test, so, since I'd fitted a clutch, thought I might as well get this done). Back on the road OK and the slight VCU bearing noise is gone.
 
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