What have you done to your Freelander today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
JC600 said:
I now know why you don't get good MPG............you need to learn how to drive fast without thrashing the engine. :)
Click to expand...

I can, but hippos don't go fast lol

The Type R was just a Type R, they don't go fast when they're not at the top of the rev counter ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
If you did 25 miles at 70 and it didn't boil over, that kinda says the cooling system is ok. The L series doesn't create much heat, no diesel does really compared to a petrol engine anyway. Have you played with the coolant recently?
Click to expand...

Yeh, probably the biggest issue with the L Series cooling system is getting enough heat into the passengers on a cold day! What with the heater matrix sharing flow with the IRD feed, does its best for the mechanicals but not to friendly to occupants. Mind you the bleed valve on the heater pipe is a big plus.
 
Collected a nice warm Freelander now that the Thermostat has been changed. She comes up to the correct temp now and the heater finally kicks out Hot Air, not just Luke warm.
All done under warranty, and glad it was as it came in at just over £500. Hopefully should improve the MPG too.

Hope everyone having a good weekend.
 
Nodge68 said:
If you did 25 miles at 70 and it didn't boil over, that kinda says the cooling system is ok. The L series doesn't create much heat, no diesel does really compared to a petrol engine anyway. Have you played with the coolant recently?
Click to expand...


Put a new rad in.....
 
After doing some miles to warm up the engine, stop and leave it on tick over. This is the time it will start to warm up the rad pipe if it's cool when yer driving. It will need to dissipate the heat from the engine. I had similar cool pipe worries previously on my v6. All was ok.
 
Snapped bonnet release cable.....

Opened the bonnet up with a 10mm spanner. I've fashioned a temporary fix while I source a replacement cable.

I then carried on with the actual job I intended to do which was wet flatting the headlights to remove the UV damage they were showing.
 
gaz324 said:
Collected a nice warm Freelander now that the Thermostat has been changed. She comes up to the correct temp now and the heater finally kicks out Hot Air, not just Luke warm.
All done under warranty, and glad it was as it came in at just over £500. Hopefully should improve the MPG too.

Hope everyone having a good weekend.
Click to expand...

I had mine done a couple of months ago. Similar cost too, and most of it covered by warranty.
 
started the beast up first time in 7 months went first time happy days:bounce: just gotta sort out the damp and mould now:mad:
 
Bled the coolant again, couldn't find any air so all good. Used it to pick up new sofa and spare disco wheels. Rear 100% full, you can't really see. Must of done 250 miles in it today, I checked the bottom hose and it was defiantly cooler to the touch than the others and no drop in coolant level so pretty sure there was no air in the system and I was getting paranoid.

u6yne8e5.jpg
 
Kizzeh said:
Bled the coolant again, couldn't find any air so all good. Used it to pick up new sofa and spare disco wheels. Rear 100% full, you can't really see. Must of done 250 miles in it today, I checked the bottom hose and it was defiantly cooler to the touch than the others and no drop in coolant level so pretty sure there was no air in the system and I was getting paranoid.

u6yne8e5.jpg
Click to expand...

As I said, don't worry. The rad has about 4 X the cooling capacity required by the L series engine.
The L series is so thermally efficient that in cold weather the heater alone is enough to cool the engine. The bottom hose feels cold because the stat is allowing a small amount of hot water into the rad, but no were near enough to make the bottom hose hot.
In winter the bottom hose on my V6 is cool to the touch.
Try not to worry, it sounds normal to me ;)
 
Must be why it was stone cold, I had the heaters on flat out all the way back!
I hate doubting my own work, you know its fine, you know you have done everything properly but you have a niggle in the back of your head, then presented with some unfamiliar symptoms and it turns into a worry
 
Kizzeh said:
Must be why it was stone cold, I had the heaters on flat out all the way back!
I hate doubting my own work, you know its fine, you know you have done everything properly but you have a niggle in the back of your head, then presented with some unfamiliar symptoms and it turns into a worry
Click to expand...

Have faith in your work - as a high flying ape said on another thread, its probably a lot better than a garage that just knocks jobs out as quick as possible.

Only worry if you're left holding a bracket or 1/2 a dozen bolts - 2 bolts is generally fine ;)
 
Swore at it cuz It wouldn't turn over. Checked battery voltage. Ok
Wiggled starter wires.
Turned key - swore again cuz I had put it into gear to rock it. Car moved 2 ft forward on starter. Now got it started.

Going down to shop. Once condensation clears. Argh bloody landrovers. You gotta love em.
 
Number 2 injector, leak off lines and "T" connectors, MAF meter, EGR bypass, Silicone hoses, glow plugs, crank case breather to BMW oil separator, four tyres, air filter, rear exhaust box, license plates, drums brushed and painted, radio (previous owner jammed three CDs into a single CD player), rear diff mount, rust treatment, primer and paint, rear plate light contact enhancement, passenger rear window actuator repair, repaired tailgate switch, cigar lighter repair, wiring repair to loom over steering column. May need to look at VCU or prop bearings / UJ/ CV etc or if someone has replaced the damn VCU crap with a manual transfer box ????
Rear fog - reverse cluster due to be riding / brake light mod. *** Only owned the B!TCh 3 months and into a full love - hate relationship lol
 
Last edited:
SES88 said:
See I get slightly worse than that, but isn't all short journeys, and you have an auto :wtf:
Click to expand...

Just filled up at 370 miles and 58 litres. 29mpg. Now considering 90% was short journeys of 0.1 - 3 miles and its an auto, I really can't complain. On similar journeys my CR140tdi DSG Yeti was barely any better....

I really need to do more long journeys to see what it is like now on the open road.

Oh, and Ronbox was on 7 and the dash switch on power :D
 
hellcat said:
Number 2 injector, leak off lines and "T" connectors, MAF meter, EGR bypass, Silicone hoses, glow plugs, crank case breather to BMW oil separator, four tyres, air filter, rear exhaust box, license plates, drums brushed and painted, radio (previous owner jammed three CDs into a single CD player), rear diff mount, rust treatment, primer and paint, rear plate light contact enhancement, passenger rear window actuator repair, repaired tailgate switch, cigar lighter repair, wiring repair to loom over steering column. May need to look at VCU or prop bearings / UJ/ CV etc or if someone has replaced the damn VCU crap with a manual transfer box ????
Rear fog - reverse cluster due to be riding / brake light mod. *** Only owned the B!TCh 3 months and into a full love - hate relationship lol
Click to expand...

Thas a lot o ****. You know now why everyone told you to buy a Toyota :bolt:
 
a3udu5yt.jpg


I fitted the BMW cyclone crankcase breather/oil separator, part number 34830 if anyone is looking for one.

I didn't have any black smoke coming out the back yet but anything to give the engine an easier life is good in my view!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
792
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
404
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
881
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
674
Hippo
Hippo
Back
Top