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What have you done on your 90/110/130 today?
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frog hopper
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Well I got the seat base in today, and then failed over the next 2 hours to get the fecking thing to line up, ended up loosening off all the bolts on the tub and levering/wedging things until it was close.
I think I shall hold fire on the tub/seatbox until I have the roof in place and then lock everything off at the same time.
I think I shall hold fire on the tub/seatbox until I have the roof in place and then lock everything off at the same time.
I just realised that I posted what I did today on my 'Ninety' (i.e. 1985 with1988 UK reg. pre-Defender 90 a.k.a. Stage 2) in the
What have you done to your Landie today thread rather than here in the What have you done on your 90/110/130 today? thread. So here's a link for anyone bored and at a loose end
...........
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...our-landie-today.62254/page-1517#post-4625305
What have you done to your Landie today thread rather than here in the What have you done on your 90/110/130 today? thread. So here's a link for anyone bored and at a loose end
...........https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...our-landie-today.62254/page-1517#post-4625305
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I decided to take the dash insert from this:
Through this:
To this:
Matching dash:
Through this:
To this:
Matching dash:
neilly
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The center gauge is for the aux battery
I hope to be there Sunday so you can have your cold beverage from my fridge
neilly
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The center gauge is for the aux battery
Sounds good, I forgive you your bling...LOL
Cheers
frog hopper
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Bought some exercise mats to line the roof, not the ideal colour but it will do. I used "Evostick" type contact adhesive against all advice, though I did try a bit first and seemed to be alright. Have to see how it stands up to time. I will do the roof end later, working my nuts off at the mo trying to get roadworthy in the next 2 weeks. I actually had a near servicable liner over the cab, so that is getting a rather different treatment.
Managed to get a good tight fit round the edges, sweating on that a bit, once it touches that's it it's fixed. A good few years of doing this sort of thing for a living helps, although it was using wood panels.
That done it was time to have a go at prepping the exterior of the roof for paint. Why has the very rear lost it's paint cover? Somehow I don't think it was due to air abrasion travelling at rocket speeds.
Splashed some etch primer on the bare bits and then found out I'd bought the wrong type of paint for the colour coat. Never mind still plenty to get on with before I really need the roof to go in place.
Wing off after a struggle, forgot just how many fixings there are. Not too bad at all with the rust, just surface rust. Now the wing is off I can get to the bulkhead outrigger and tidy some welding I did a couple of years ago. I had been worrying about getting the bumper off, but as luck would have it after soaking in Plusgas for the last few days the bolts just wound out after being threatened with a breaker bar to crack the threads. Front dumb irons in much better condition than they could have been.
Still some sand in the dumb irons though, I think it might be best to leave out the rubber bungs to make sure the jet wash can get in there easier.
Meanwhile the sh1tpart galv turret is still good after a couple of years.
Glad I slotted the bracket that holds the brake flexi, going to make it so much easier to ease it out of the way for the clean up/paint job.
Managed to get a good tight fit round the edges, sweating on that a bit, once it touches that's it it's fixed. A good few years of doing this sort of thing for a living helps, although it was using wood panels.
That done it was time to have a go at prepping the exterior of the roof for paint. Why has the very rear lost it's paint cover? Somehow I don't think it was due to air abrasion travelling at rocket speeds.
Splashed some etch primer on the bare bits and then found out I'd bought the wrong type of paint for the colour coat. Never mind still plenty to get on with before I really need the roof to go in place.
Still some sand in the dumb irons though, I think it might be best to leave out the rubber bungs to make sure the jet wash can get in there easier.
Meanwhile the sh1tpart galv turret is still good after a couple of years.
Glad I slotted the bracket that holds the brake flexi, going to make it so much easier to ease it out of the way for the clean up/paint job.
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I have spent most of today wiring stuff, then not liking the result and ripping it out and starting again
Quite a disappointing and non productive day
Quite a disappointing and non productive day
neilly
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Fitting a new set of front raius arm bushes, Plus fitting the washer the previous owner had missed off on both sides.
Cheers
Cheers
v8250
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v8250
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thanks for the likes, guys. Working on Lucy has been a voyage of discovery...remarkable how simple these old girls are, providing the nuts & bolts have been apart in the last 30+ years. I fear the turbo and manifold nuts and studs are going to need a lot of plusgas and heat. On schedule is engine off to Turner Engineering [should have been collected on Friday but cock up with their courier ] then next week remove the crusty bits and replace with new metal. The chassis is in superb condition so a light buzz back and 3-4 layers of magical Aqua Steel and Bilt Hamber. Same for inner wings and under bonnet. Nato Gloss Green paint arrived from Paintman on Weds. And have been a naughty boy today...ordered a new sand/soda blasting machine and new 100L compressor today with a couple of extra bags of media. Can't wait for next Friday and the weekend/s as will be blasting back heater box, manifolds, brake and clutch cylinder/servos, steering box, PAS unit, pulleys, bulkhead, front chassis, spring towers, inside bonnet, radiator frame and anything else I get the urge to clean up. Then treat, prime and respray with Eastwood's superb Underhood Black c/o Frosts.
] then next week remove the crusty bits and replace with new metal. The chassis is in superb condition so a light buzz back and 3-4 layers of magical Aqua Steel and Bilt Hamber. Same for inner wings and under bonnet. Nato Gloss Green paint arrived from Paintman on Weds. And have been a naughty boy today...ordered a new sand/soda blasting machine and new 100L compressor today with a couple of extra bags of media. Can't wait for next Friday and the weekend/s as will be blasting back heater box, manifolds, brake and clutch cylinder/servos, steering box, PAS unit, pulleys, bulkhead, front chassis, spring towers, inside bonnet, radiator frame and anything else I get the urge to clean up. Then treat, prime and respray with Eastwood's superb Underhood Black c/o Frosts.
frog hopper
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Just about every bolt or screw I have ever taken off gets replaced with a good/new one and a good smear of copper coat, helps to make things easy in the future.thanks for the likes, guys. Working on Lucy has been a voyage of discovery...remarkable how simple these old girls are, providing the nuts & bolts have been apart in the last 30+ years. I fear the turbo and manifold nuts and studs are going to need a lot of plusgas and heat. On schedule is engine off to Turner Engineering [should have been collected on Friday but cock up with their courier
I must say that's one tidy motor there, and for green, I even like the colour.
I should think things got a little exciting when the engine hoist started to go over the gravel.
v8250
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thank you frog hopper, you are a most discerning [for the colour] and observant [for the gravel] gentleman. luckily, the hoist "en gravier..." didn't topple. at one stage it was precariously balanced and had to lower centre of gravity...drop engine quite quickly...to reinstate some sense of safety. next time i'll remember the extra sheet of 8'x4'
frog hopper
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A good day today, cleaned up the drivers side chassis in front of the bulkhead, cleaned up a couple of old welds and got a coat of primer on everything.
With luck I shall get the top coats on tomorrow and start replacing the wing. In between waiting for paint to dry I might have a go at removing the other wing. Engine bay could also do with a bit of a freshen up as well.
Had a bit of a panic on when I noticed a patch of damp under the brake master cylinder, totally dry, think I spilt some fluid some time ago and forgot about it.
With luck I shall get the top coats on tomorrow and start replacing the wing. In between waiting for paint to dry I might have a go at removing the other wing. Engine bay could also do with a bit of a freshen up as well.
Had a bit of a panic on when I noticed a patch of damp under the brake master cylinder, totally dry, think I spilt some fluid some time ago and forgot about it.
frog hopper
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When I saw it I thought all sorts of bad things could have happened, the best perhaps a smashed manifold or something.thank you frog hopper, you are a most discerning [for the colour] and observant [for the gravel] gentleman. luckily, the hoist "en gravier..." didn't topple. at one stage it was precariously balanced and had to lower centre of gravity...drop engine quite quickly...to reinstate some sense of safety. next time i'll remember the extra sheet of 8'x4'
The worst would be if you were involved in what is known as "A significant emotional experience" and ending in purchase of a wheelchair.
Be careful out there.
Fitted the X-Defend pedal box at last. No photos* as there are several threads on this. Not difficult but fiddly getting it all lined up with carpet on the tunnel, bulkhead and seat box. Once I had got it to where it closed correctly and folded down to sit against the seat box I drilled the holes for the securing bolts to find they were just on the lip of where the floor pan secures to the body, thus needing to grind away a bit of the lip underneath so the washer and nut would fit on! I think the holes should be just in front of the lip but the carpet stuck to the seat box pushes the whole thing forward a few mm.
I also noticed during the trial fitting that when closed the bolt heads on the lock caught on the grooved metal lip below the dash (where the silly very short lived cardboard floor pan trim once slotted in) thus preventing it from opening. Loosened the lower dash screws and pulled out the slotted angled metal and made the angle more acute thus raising the lip; once back in the lock cleared the lip.
There is room for the rubber mat and it closes ok with it on. The only thing I think is different to what I've seen is to unlock it I have to push it in a little or the key won't turn; in vids I've seen it appears to spring open once the key is turned.
I haven't snapped off the security bolts yet and might replace them with nylocs bar one in case I ever need to take the floor out again. Even if the bolts are undone, the whole thing is wrapped around the brake pedal and the pedals will still be inaccessible.
An expensive addition but it adds to the layers of security and gives me more peace of mind Also a lot easier than the Disklok which I will continue to use, despite the hassle factor.
*Edit - a couple of pics.
I also noticed during the trial fitting that when closed the bolt heads on the lock caught on the grooved metal lip below the dash (where the silly very short lived cardboard floor pan trim once slotted in) thus preventing it from opening. Loosened the lower dash screws and pulled out the slotted angled metal and made the angle more acute thus raising the lip; once back in the lock cleared the lip.
There is room for the rubber mat and it closes ok with it on. The only thing I think is different to what I've seen is to unlock it I have to push it in a little or the key won't turn; in vids I've seen it appears to spring open once the key is turned.
I haven't snapped off the security bolts yet and might replace them with nylocs bar one in case I ever need to take the floor out again. Even if the bolts are undone, the whole thing is wrapped around the brake pedal and the pedals will still be inaccessible.
An expensive addition but it adds to the layers of security and gives me more peace of mind Also a lot easier than the Disklok which I will continue to use, despite the hassle factor.
*Edit - a couple of pics.
Last edited:
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