Other what have u done on ur disco today

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front wheels off ready to replace front springs and shocks, saw a bit of rust on inner arches so took the plastic inner wing trays off, bloody thing is gonna need welding on the inner wings!! 2 pin holes for now on passenger side, drivers side needs a clean and paint up, absaloute bags of ****e Landrovers, ive waxoyled the fooking thing every year ive had it, chassis as good as new, so not decided yet whether to fit springs and shocks, took running boards off aswell to freshen up, may just take nudge bar too, take full mats out, dog guard and load liner and fook it off, that would be the end of the green oval for me,!!!!
 
discodrivercumbria said:
front wheels off ready to replace front springs and shocks, saw a bit of rust on inner arches so took the plastic inner wing trays off, bloody thing is gonna need welding on the inner wings!! 2 pin holes for now on passenger side, drivers side needs a clean and paint up, absaloute bags of ****e Landrovers, ive waxoyled the fooking thing every year ive had it, chassis as good as new, so not decided yet whether to fit springs and shocks, took running boards off aswell to freshen up, may just take nudge bar too, take full mats out, dog guard and load liner and fook it off, that would be the end of the green oval for me,!!!!
Click to expand...

Deeeeep Breath................

Cheers
 
brian47 said:
Just wondering, did you get one from the GOS website and how you got on with the purchase? I'd be interested to know what they're like to deal with.
Click to expand...

hi

i’ve dealt with GOS and always found them very helpful and bits turn up on time
 
It's truly amazing what you can achieve when you have the right tools.

Following my attempt last week or so to change the auxiliary drive belt tensioner which failed miserably, I bought myself a thin-wall multipoint 14 mm socket, actually it's a plug spanner socket for a motorcycle but don't hold that against me.
This time the job went like a dream, get the tools out, change the tensioner and put everything away again, all in about an hour.
I'd say that it was on the point of needing to be changed, the bearings in the idler wheel were begining to rumble when I spun it by hand.
One point to note, the bolt in the centre of the idler wheel is a left-hand thread, but the bolt holding the tensioner assembly to the engine block was a standard right-hand thread, unless my socket set was telling me porkies.
I might be getting a bit too long in the tooth for scrambling about in the gutter under the Disco, but I can still fix things standing up.
 
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Another quality purchase :p

DSC_0413.JPG

Never seen one of these in the flesh before
DSC_0414.JPG
 
Replaced a sidelight bulb on my face-lift D2... what a faff....

1) Remove headlamp protector (dealer fit when new)
2) struggle with rivnut on wing as it is loose just spins so you can’t undo the screw retaining the protector.
3) remember you have to remove grille
4) remove other headlamp protector to allow you to remove grille
5) struggle with both spinning rivnuts on 2nd protector.
6) undo screw A and B on headlamp
7) scrap stage 6 as both screws turn but don’t undo
8) undo star bolts behind screw A and B to remove as a unit
9) realise that the super-glue repair you did previously on the lower bracket by the grill has seeming gone everywhere, therefore end up breaking bracket again.
10) remove headlamp to discover it’s totally covered up with wax oil following an under seal treatment and struggle to remove the cover for the bulb.
11) access bulb holder, to discover that the heat from bulb has distorted both the bulb holder and headlamp, doing a good job of fusing the two together.
12) eventually remove holder and bulb
13) replace with new.
14) check bulb works
15) to quote Haynes “assembly is the reverse of disassembly”

Cost of bulb £0.95
 
GJ1 said:
Replaced a sidelight bulb on my face-lift D2... what a faff....

1) Remove headlamp protector (dealer fit when new)
2) struggle with rivnut on wing as it is loose just spins so you can’t undo the screw retaining the protector.
3) remember you have to remove grille
4) remove other headlamp protector to allow you to remove grille
5) struggle with both spinning rivnuts on 2nd protector.
6) undo screw A and B on headlamp
7) scrap stage 6 as both screws turn but don’t undo
8) undo star bolts behind screw A and B to remove as a unit
9) realise that the super-glue repair you did previously on the lower bracket by the grill has seeming gone everywhere, therefore end up breaking bracket again.
10) remove headlamp to discover it’s totally covered up with wax oil following an under seal treatment and struggle to remove the cover for the bulb.
11) access bulb holder, to discover that the heat from bulb has distorted both the bulb holder and headlamp, doing a good job of fusing the two together.
12) eventually remove holder and bulb
13) replace with new.
14) check bulb works
15) to quote Haynes “assembly is the reverse of disassembly”

Cost of bulb £0.95
Click to expand...
And how much more did you spend on fresh superglue to put it all back together?
 
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