Other what have u done on ur disco today

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brian47 said:
If you're going to try to replace the centering bush, then I wish you good luck, it's an absolute bitch of a job apparently to get the old one off .... be warned.
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Might as well while I'm at it! (Naive, ignorant, blissfully unaware of horror) Suitably warned thank you, it's gonna be one of those jobs ain't it? :eek:
 
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Even bigger top tip! Last time I changed the centre bush, I bought the full kit and handed it over to my local indie garage to do the job for me. :) All sorted and no torn knuckles, well not my knuckles at least!:D
Honestly, if the centre bush is firm and looks OK and you're doing the job yourself, I'd be tempted to give it a miss this time round and just change the doughnut.
 
1988smithy said:
@neilly @brian47 is it crucial to change the centering bush as ive just, ahem, researched methods and sh*t myself

Also the rubber coupling looks tired so I'm not wasting time/money doing this am I?
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No Idea, never had to do it as mine was in good shape when I have taken it off and looked at it. Never needed to remove the ctr bushing either. Sorry.

From what I have seen, looks like a typical LR bush, attack with chisel, etc, etc.

Cheers
 
brian47 said:
Even bigger top tip! Last time I changed the centre bush, I bought the full kit and handed it over to my local indie garage to do the job for me. :) All sorted and no torn knuckles, well not my knuckles at least!:D
Click to expand...

:D getting tempting to be fair! If the bush is worn the new donut won't last as long as it should anyway im guessing.
Changed the middle pipe and back box on my moms Datsun Juke today so not in a great rush to get under a car again for a bit :rolleyes:
Might let the judder develop a bit more so I can diagnose it easier. Hopefully before something big lets go though
 
Finally slayed the squeeky fan belt. After a new belt and adjuster, wretched thing still chirrpuped. Spent ages digging out bits of belt from all the pulley grooves. Silence!
 
Disco went for an emergency mot this week after discovering on Saturday that the mot didn't run till November as I originally thought but in fact had run out in May :eek::eek:

Fortunately got a pass with a bulb and wiper blades plus the usual advisories for rust.

Needless to say have noted on the calendar when it's due.:rolleyes:​
 
backinblack said:
Started replacing the TD5 injector seals, all was well until the last injector clamp bolt snapped:( hopefully new bolt will be here Tuesday.
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New bolt fitted yesterday, runs and sounds better for the new seals. Off home now to see if I still get the smokey starting after it's been stood overnight.
 
Well, removed the piece of PVC which has been covering the SRS warning light and cured the problem by repairing the broken wires to the pretensioner. Also had the rear brakes apart and I have to ask the question "Why?"....
Both calipers were siezed on the slider pins. Siezed with rust in the rubber boot. This doesn't happen overnight, over month or even over year, given the amount of rust.

WHY would any service not check this? I always pull the boots back and check the motion of the slider. Siezed sliders lead to poor pedal, badly worn uneven shoes, and eventually a wrecked calipers.

So IF you are checking your brake pads, please check the slider pins, it's a 2 minute job, and a small tube of graphite grease is cheap....a lot cheaper than a calipers!
 
Shortbase said:
Well, removed the piece of PVC which has been covering the SRS warning light and cured the problem by repairing the broken wires to the pretensioner. Also had the rear brakes apart and I have to ask the question "Why?"....
Both calipers were siezed on the slider pins. Siezed with rust in the rubber boot. This doesn't happen overnight, over month or even over year, given the amount of rust.

WHY would any service not check this? I always pull the boots back and check the motion of the slider. Siezed sliders lead to poor pedal, badly worn uneven shoes, and eventually a wrecked calipers.

So IF you are checking your brake pads, please check the slider pins, it's a 2 minute job, and a small tube of graphite grease is cheap....a lot cheaper than a calipers!
Click to expand...
I'd agree with what's been said, but grease comes in many and various types. For use around the brakes, I'd prefer to use an extremely high temperature grease formulated for the brake jobs, especially on disc brakes which even under normal conditions can run hotter than drum brakes.
This stuff looks very interesting:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceramic-B...320375&hash=item3d36ca81cf:g:pncAAOSwdGFY2R05
 
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