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What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
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Could also be the 16-pin connector on the HEVAC failing ? I definitely need to replace the connector on my Green P38. All the motors & potentiometers test ok with a 9V battery & the flaps are def not sticking.My book symbol has gone again.
Question- would I be right in thinking that, for example, a sticky flap would bring up the book and ,without touching anything on the hvac , the next start will clear the book until I adjust something again?
2001 my. Changed my passenger side mirror glass this morning so now have both new heated mirrors working. Another issue occurred also this morning , ign on, to set the passenger mirror and the gearbox cooler fan runs, it has also started the last couple of times I've plugged the nano in, again, engine not running, just ign on for hvac testing.
Flossie
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It's a bit bizarre to be fair.
The book has been off for months, but cold or damp weather generally brings it on. Could also mean that I probably don't move the adjustments much in the summer, just screen and dash vents in play, but cold weather involves more fiddling as my tootsies get cold .
It's completely water tight too. Is that 16 pin connector available then?
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- Posts
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The hevac not only reads the pot value but also the current draw. If it's near the upper limit then maybe it pulls slightly extra current under certain conditions and trips the book symbol.
Datatek
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That is not how I understand it. If the HEVAC is expecting a certain value from the blend motor pot and the return is incorrect, the fault will stay there. However the act of starting may dislodge a sticky flap allowing it to move to the correct position at which point the book will disappear.My book symbol has gone again
Question- would I be right in thinking that, for example, a sticky flap would bring up the book and ,without touching anything on the hvac , the next start will clear the book until I adjust something again?
2001 my. Changed my passenger side mirror glass this morning so now have both new heated mirrors working. Another issue occurred also this morning , ign on, to set the passenger mirror and the gearbox cooler fan runs, it has also started the last couple of times I've plugged the nano in, again, engine not running, just ign on for hvac testing.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Current sensing on the blend motors? I'll have to check but I do not think so.
Edit:- The blend motors are driven by L272 Operational amplifiers which do not have any current sensing facility.
Last edited:
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Nanocom does report current faults, but no idea if it's really that, or a calculated error ?
Man, am I happy mine has none of those pesky electronics! 
Anyway, just bolted down the upper dash and instrument carrier before rain drove me in. The connector for the instruments is actually poka-yoke, fool proof, as in it can only be plugged in one way. Smart folks those RRC engineers.
I did realize I have no idea where I put the upper catch for glove box, which is not great. It will show up eventually so.
Had a quick chat with the mechanic I trust, no news from the carbs and even less for the manifolds. So I'll buy the manifolds myself, if the carbs are still a no show come end of August, I'll just buy the Weber 4 Barrel conversion kit directly from Webcon and install it myself. I can always either keep or sell those rebuild Zeniths if they show up one day. That's what you get when you get lazy and have a garage specialized in old Landies do this stuff for you.
Anyway, just bolted down the upper dash and instrument carrier before rain drove me in. The connector for the instruments is actually poka-yoke, fool proof, as in it can only be plugged in one way. Smart folks those RRC engineers.
I did realize I have no idea where I put the upper catch for glove box, which is not great. It will show up eventually so.
Had a quick chat with the mechanic I trust, no news from the carbs and even less for the manifolds. So I'll buy the manifolds myself, if the carbs are still a no show come end of August, I'll just buy the Weber 4 Barrel conversion kit directly from Webcon and install it myself. I can always either keep or sell those rebuild Zeniths if they show up one day. That's what you get when you get lazy and have a garage specialized in old Landies do this stuff for you.
Well, there are maybe more issues with all of that. Hell, not that I was into perfomance tuning to begin with, even the exhaust is so far standard, just in stainless steel.
Anyways, since the exhaust manifolds are shot, well, the right one is, I need replacements anyway. Thing is, the original ones are hard to come by and expensive. Hence an aftermarket one, and those tend to be tubular ones. At least for the RRC, need to check e.g. SD1 ones and fit the RRC exhaust to those. Things with tubular ones, I need TÜV to put those into the papers, after testing. I could also just try to sneak them through hoping nobody knows what he's looking at in the case of old RRCs... Not my style so, and that's the potential plan for the cylinder heads.
Which brings me to the carbs, there the problem is the fact that the inlet manifold changes as well. With the same result as above, they need entry into the papers.
And the carbs themselves, well, that is another problem. Additional power might equire a dyno test, and again an entry into the registration papers. Not to mention brake systems...
Thing is, a Weber 4 Barrel is more or less the same as rebuilding the Zeniths. And you can get the kit in a couple of days instead of months.
And the tubular manifolds are a ton cheaper than the OEM ones, which I have yet to find a supplier for. My point being, if I have to go through all that admin and testing crap anyway for a necessary replacement component, I can do it right.
We'll see what my friendly TÜV engineer tells.me tomorrow. Having the car ready by October for Corsica seems more and more like a stretch... It is fun regardless!
Anyways, since the exhaust manifolds are shot, well, the right one is, I need replacements anyway. Thing is, the original ones are hard to come by and expensive. Hence an aftermarket one, and those tend to be tubular ones. At least for the RRC, need to check e.g. SD1 ones and fit the RRC exhaust to those. Things with tubular ones, I need TÜV to put those into the papers, after testing. I could also just try to sneak them through hoping nobody knows what he's looking at in the case of old RRCs... Not my style so, and that's the potential plan for the cylinder heads.
Which brings me to the carbs, there the problem is the fact that the inlet manifold changes as well. With the same result as above, they need entry into the papers.
And the carbs themselves, well, that is another problem. Additional power might equire a dyno test, and again an entry into the registration papers. Not to mention brake systems...
Thing is, a Weber 4 Barrel is more or less the same as rebuilding the Zeniths. And you can get the kit in a couple of days instead of months.
And the tubular manifolds are a ton cheaper than the OEM ones, which I have yet to find a supplier for. My point being, if I have to go through all that admin and testing crap anyway for a necessary replacement component, I can do it right.
We'll see what my friendly TÜV engineer tells.me tomorrow. Having the car ready by October for Corsica seems more and more like a stretch... It is fun regardless!
Just had a call with my TÜV engineer, and he had good news!
The tubular exhaust will simply be declared as a replacement part, no further inspection or so needed.
If I really get the Weber four barrel carb, he would need a dyno run to change the registered power rating. As luck would have it, ADAC, the German motor club, has a serious testing center about an hour from where I live. For club members, a before and after dyne test is 300 bucks, a single one around 200. Both including an overall inspection, in case classics done by people knowing classic cars.
And to top of luck, as my RRC is legally a towing vehicle, a lot of stuff is permisible that wouldn't otherwise. Like plugging a snorkel with an inline air filter directly to the carb instead of those diskus / UFO shaped original ones. I'm even ready to install a new pbeumatic break system just to maintain that classification. Would provide an onboard compressor and pressure tank, which sounds handy when going off-road. Not to mention the leniancy you get regarding the overall condition of the vehicle, especially optically, to maintain its classification as a classic. Which im turn means quite some benefits regarding taxes and insurance premiums. Oh, and emission controls, which is good as mine doesn't have any of those except some rudementary, propably rotten away, EGR circuit that will have to go in case of different carb anyways.
Lots of work to be done still, but shpuld be doable by late September, early October. Besides the stuff I prefer to have a mechanic do it. Like the front diff, getting the Truetrac into the rear diff and all those oil changes. The latter due to the mess that tends to be. And I am somewhat done lying under the car by now.
The carb replacement sounda like a ton of fun so to tackle myself!
The tubular exhaust will simply be declared as a replacement part, no further inspection or so needed.
If I really get the Weber four barrel carb, he would need a dyno run to change the registered power rating. As luck would have it, ADAC, the German motor club, has a serious testing center about an hour from where I live. For club members, a before and after dyne test is 300 bucks, a single one around 200. Both including an overall inspection, in case classics done by people knowing classic cars.
And to top of luck, as my RRC is legally a towing vehicle, a lot of stuff is permisible that wouldn't otherwise. Like plugging a snorkel with an inline air filter directly to the carb instead of those diskus / UFO shaped original ones. I'm even ready to install a new pbeumatic break system just to maintain that classification. Would provide an onboard compressor and pressure tank, which sounds handy when going off-road. Not to mention the leniancy you get regarding the overall condition of the vehicle, especially optically, to maintain its classification as a classic. Which im turn means quite some benefits regarding taxes and insurance premiums. Oh, and emission controls, which is good as mine doesn't have any of those except some rudementary, propably rotten away, EGR circuit that will have to go in case of different carb anyways.
Lots of work to be done still, but shpuld be doable by late September, early October. Besides the stuff I prefer to have a mechanic do it. Like the front diff, getting the Truetrac into the rear diff and all those oil changes. The latter due to the mess that tends to be. And I am somewhat done lying under the car by now.
The carb replacement sounda like a ton of fun so to tackle myself!
