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Noted babe
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
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So, spent my lunch break while working from home to check something under the car. Pulled myself out grabbing the front propshaft. Managed to turn it by hand appr. 20 degrees. The rear one is tack solid.
Means the front diff is shot, but not leaking. The rear one is leaking but not shot. Well, two new diffs it is I guess! No surpise so, the ones it had when I bought it were abused for years by heavy towing, as the rear one clearly showed with multiple teeth sheered of and polished over time. And besides the Truetrac, the rear one was a very cheap replacement unit from a breaking yard.
Did some maths on Ashcrofts, will order two pegged complete diffs, meaning the fitting will easier, no rebuilding necessary, and I get new housings, pinions and so on. Only to fit the Truetrac in one of those.
Oh, and I discovered new overdrive units for the LT95 are being build now. Not interested in that anymore, I like the simplicity as is. Plus, I still just might get ported cylinder heads next year, maybe. Or one could just buy a R380/LT230 set for the same price. The same company does sell an improved LT95 cover plate so, including plugs for a sensor unit and an oil cooler. Cheap enough, and since the old one has its issues holding oil without some exterbnl sealing, that's on the list now as well.
Means the front diff is shot, but not leaking. The rear one is leaking but not shot. Well, two new diffs it is I guess! No surpise so, the ones it had when I bought it were abused for years by heavy towing, as the rear one clearly showed with multiple teeth sheered of and polished over time. And besides the Truetrac, the rear one was a very cheap replacement unit from a breaking yard.
Did some maths on Ashcrofts, will order two pegged complete diffs, meaning the fitting will easier, no rebuilding necessary, and I get new housings, pinions and so on. Only to fit the Truetrac in one of those.
Oh, and I discovered new overdrive units for the LT95 are being build now. Not interested in that anymore, I like the simplicity as is. Plus, I still just might get ported cylinder heads next year, maybe. Or one could just buy a R380/LT230 set for the same price. The same company does sell an improved LT95 cover plate so, including plugs for a sensor unit and an oil cooler. Cheap enough, and since the old one has its issues holding oil without some exterbnl sealing, that's on the list now as well.
Sounds like normal slack to me
. Plus, wheres the handbrake? may be a reason the rear didnt move
.If you are going to rebuild 1 with your truetrac why not just get the pegged housing surely that saves a bunch of cash?
I take it you have got over the 10/24 spline issue?
J
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I'd agree with the handbrake stopping any movementSounds like normal slack to me
If you are going to rebuild 1 with your truetrac why not just get the pegged housing surely that saves a bunch of cash?
I take it you have got over the 10/24 spline issue?
J
Mine do have a bit of slack after 269k but I'm not surprised
No, didn't solve that. Decided that this wholeix-matching is just a pain, and will result in a bunch of missing parts and parts I cannot use. Considered a pegged housing, new pinion and crown wheel, parts and a rebuild kit for bearings and such. Almost the same price as a complete unit, and at some point I am ready to exchange money for time.Sounds like normal slack to me
If you are going to rebuild 1 with your truetrac why not just get the pegged housing surely that saves a bunch of cash?
I take it you have got over the 10/24 spline issue?
J
Good point with the hand brake so, need to check that. That being said, she had a tendency to shudder from time to time under load change on both axles. The rear one stopped after the old diff exploded and was replaced. Never really trusted the front one ever since. Call is peace of mind.
And a pegged diff has some durability advantages compared to the normal ones.
I'll plug the starter motor and fuel sender later, god opportunity to check the rear diff without the hand brake.
Why not just get them to build a diff with an ATB, and sell what you have?
I have to agree, sometimes although we could do something doesnt make it value for money, and getting somebody else to do it is often worth it.
Totally agree, although you dont actually abuse your drivetrain. but for the extra at the time of build its worth it. If you are going for open diffs consider 4 pin too.
J
4 pin only goes with 23 spline axles, I still have 10 spline ones. Switching over is not cheap. I did think about getting an ARB locker for the front diff, so far that is out of the budget. Plus, those need a compressor. A pitty the front true trac isn't available for 10 spline axles.
The front diff really is peace of mind, it propably is fine. Given the destination I risk to really abuse it so, I prefer to fix before it breaks in the desert. It did fine the last time, but then I am already spending money, I can as well do it right.
The front diff really is peace of mind, it propably is fine. Given the destination I risk to really abuse it so, I prefer to fix before it breaks in the desert. It did fine the last time, but then I am already spending money, I can as well do it right.
There is already more hole than wallet! 10 spline is ok, a front locker is not realy necessary anyway. And for once, I agree with that sentiment!
