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The nut on the top cable is tight, but the terminal feels slightly loose. Fusebox needs to come out & get inspected properly.Could be just the power cable to the box is loose.
The nut on the top cable is tight, but the terminal feels slightly loose. Fusebox needs to come out & get inspected properly.Could be just the power cable to the box is loose.
Could be the solder joint come unglued/cracked . I had this on 2 of the terminals underneathThe nut on the top cable is tight, but the terminal feels slightly loose. Fusebox needs to come out & get inspected properly.
That's my thought as well. Weather not ideal today though !!Could be the solder joint come unglued/cracked . I had this on 2 of the terminals underneath
Fusebox out - suspicion confirmed, main batter feed definitely bad. Also the terminal underneath for the Brown/Light-Green feed C169 to the BECM is a bit loose as well. Not noticed any problems with the BECM, but will sort that as well.Could be the solder joint come unglued/cracked . I had this on 2 of the terminals underneath
That bolt in the first picture has certainly got a bit hot Those cracked solder joints are unfortunately, typical.Fusebox out - suspicion confirmed, main batter feed definitely bad. Also the terminal underneath for the Brown/Light-Green feed C169 to the BECM is a bit loose as well. Not noticed any problems with the BECM, but will sort that as well.
Spare fusebox installed & working ok. Will do the re-soldering & replace all the links between the two PCB's later in the week.
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I went in the garage to use my P38 for the first time in a couple of weeks & found it had an absolutely stone dead battery too. It was so dead that I couldn't jump start with the Lithium-ion battery pack I keep in the car. I pulled out the Hankook MF31-1000 & put it on charge then dug out the old Halfords battery that I kept after I replaced it with the Hankook three years ago. Happily it started first go even though it had only been charged up fully three years ago when I replaced it.. I hadn't been getting any problems with the Halfords battery. I only got the Hankook because Battery Megastore had them in stock at a good price.
It turned out that the reading light for the driver side rear passenger reading light had been accidentally left switched on. It's idiotic design from JLR to put these lamps on a circuit that isn't switched off with the ignition. In what circumstances would you ever want to have a passenger use the reading lamp when the engine isn't running?
I charged the Hankook MF31-1000 for 48 hours & it seems to be holding charge well so will be putting it back & keeping the old Halfords battery & keeping it in the garage as a spare.
Any ideas how? Limited view and it's frigging cold! Can't see any clip/press/squeeze etc.Unplug the bonnet switch (pretty sure you don't need to link it) see how it reacts.
J
Any ideas how? Limited view and it's frigging cold! Can't see any clip/press/squeeze etc.
Pretty sure it's the culprit because u used to here the computers doing stuff when you pressed/released etc.. now i hear nothing
Looks like you squeeze either side
What to get the actual bonnet switch out?Battery flat.. 11.9v this morning again. I don't think the battery is the problem though, just a drain.
I've got the bonnet switch unplugged.. how does it come off? Assume the round 'but' unscrews/clips off?
Thank you!! I would never have figured that out!!What to get the actual bonnet switch out?
Pull off the rubber trim that runs across the scuttle and you can just see a tab, assmue 1 on the back but you cant see it (phone pic maybe?) Push the tabs and the whole switch comes out the top.
J
Tempted to put my spare good battery in but can't tell the car is got a new battery.. maybe i don't need to as it's not 'new'
It would just not charge it right(I think)but still charge, but it would confirm if the drain was too much for a "good" battery, or it was a weak battery, wouldn't it?
J
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