What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Mines still on continental tyres, i will admit they're only on 2mm (yes i know they should be changed ASAP but iv just bought transit to give the RR an easier life) and I can just hit any puddle at any speed and it just stays straight, 255 50r20 with 33psi front 36rear like the sticker says, my old td6 had 255 60r18, 255 55r19, 275 40 and 275 45r20 on 9 inch wide wheels and never felt funny through water untill a front arm and a rear toe arm was messing up the alignment, what like is your alignment?
It's towing in slightly on the front i think, but nothing major. Been meaning to get it done though i don't see it's bad enough to cause a problem
 
It's towing in slightly on the front i think, but nothing major. Been meaning to get it done though i don't see it's bad enough to cause a problem
So with toe in the front of both wheels are pushing in at the front against each other so when you hit the water the opposite wheel will be pushing it further into the puddle, a tyre pushing against the opposite tyre + weight of a motor + a driven axle too its easy to see why it pushes the tyre to feel like its skimming the surface funny,

id personally be getting alignment sorted before chasing changing tyres, yes some are better then others iv done mix and match on tyres and new and olds grippy and some not so grippy on the same axle and all sorts over the years and found alignment has more effect the way your describing hitting puddles that way then tyre brand
 
Caught up with friends and got lost in the backstreets of Grimsby. Fuelled up, 19.3mpg for almost 200 miles with quite a bit of idle or stop start crawling involved. Happy with that. Reset the computer after the stop and trip back to hotel got as good as 22.7mpg avg and range increase from 360 to 520+ miles before we stopped.
 
Is that not dot 5?
No. Apparently it's still glycol based like the normal stuff, just has the word synthetic on the bottle. Supposedly just a higher boiling point and fully compatible from everything I've read.
Then there's 'dot 4esp' which is 'socially designed' for cats with traction control and stability control
I think it's all just marketing fluff
 
Fitted Engine Guard to my P38A oil burner. Bolted the temperature sensor to the head. It takes a lot longer than the coolant needle to reach a steady temperature but seems to sit between 80C and 90C, admittedly on the inlet side. Maybe I should have put it the exhaust side, although I am guessing it will heat up PDQ should the coolant go missing.
 
No. Apparently it's still glycol based like the normal stuff, just has the word synthetic on the bottle. Supposedly just a higher boiling point and fully compatible from everything I've read.
Then there's 'dot 4esp' which is 'socially designed' for cats with traction control and stability control
I think it's all just marketing fluff

I would add that it's best to use one or the other, don't use 'synthetic' as a top-up to standard DOT4.
 
Well the mot did not go well top and bottom ball joints on front axle and a rear wheel bearing so the motor will get sorned and I will fix it when I get time I have had a set of lemforder joints sat in the boot for three years but didn't know they needed changing
I got them after I did the rebuild on all the bushes or I would have done them at the same time,, never mind
 
Probably not a popular opinion - my L322 was written off due to a minor collision (other driver at fault), so I took the payout, added a bit to it and bought a L405 4.4 TDV8. Brought it up to a decent standard, realised my usage wasn't compatible with an EU5+ diesel, so bought an EU6 L405 petrol.
Couldn't be happier - no long list of things to do, I just drive it. Sure I've had to do 'a bit' to bring it up to standard, all fluids & filters, spark plugs and at some point replace the wheels & tyres.
It does however, give me the weekends back, no more messing around and pre-planning the ever-extending list of things I have to do / things I need to do.
Oh, and it's a very comfy, enjoyable place to be - despite all the electrics / electronics which refuse to fail, despite the internet's best warnings.
 
Probably not a popular opinion - my L322 was written off due to a minor collision (other driver at fault), so I took the payout, added a bit to it and bought a L405 4.4 TDV8. Brought it up to a decent standard, realised my usage wasn't compatible with an EU5+ diesel, so bought an EU6 L405 petrol.
Couldn't be happier - no long list of things to do, I just drive it. Sure I've had to do 'a bit' to bring it up to standard, all fluids & filters, spark plugs and at some point replace the wheels & tyres.
It does however, give me the weekends back, no more messing around and pre-planning the ever-extending list of things I have to do / things I need to do.
Oh, and it's a very comfy, enjoyable place to be - despite all the electrics / electronics which refuse to fail, despite the internet's best warnings.
Now you've done it! The winker fluid will leak into the cabin and make the headlining sag, causing the boot to fill with water 🤔🙄😂

On a serious note that's half the reason i ditched the p38.. the list kept getting longer to the point i couldn't rely on it as a daily
 
Stomped backwards and forwards to Royan here in France over two days. A night out at Royan. Can't fault my old bus.
Sorting
IMG_20241027_135617.jpg
out the dark roads as well... Watch this space. 👌😎
 
Now you've done it! The winker fluid will leak into the cabin and make the headlining sag, causing the boot to fill with water 🤔🙄😂

On a serious note that's half the reason i ditched the p38.. the list kept getting longer to the point i couldn't rely on it as a daily
The other main reason, as much as i loved the car when it was having a good day, I'd just fallen out of favour with it
 
P38, frequent niggles but generally reliable, simple electronics, cheap and easy to repair unlike the L322.
you're right, generally more straight forward, certainly on the mechanicals, but even the 'simple' <abc> module is beyond my 'rusty' GCSE electronics capability, pun intended. the p38 is at the age where even the reliable electronicals are starting to fail either thru use or old age - you can't simply swap with a good used part because it will likely be in a same/similar state, so unless you can mess about with circuit boards and all the associated twiddly bits, its not cheap and easy to repair. I appreciate your skills far surpass mine :)
 
P38, frequent niggles but generally reliable, simple electronics, cheap and easy to repair unlike the L322.
See i can't say either of my l322s have been overly expensive to repair, or that troublesome even with my if i have to take this apart i may aswell do 3 other things while im there,
There has been a few unexpected bits or pricey bits but i have worked them harder then they've probably ever had in their life
 
On a side note has anyone towed high loads with an l322, iv bought 3 transits over the weekend 3 lwb high tobs not jumbo sized, 2 are quite local no real worries there the one iv bought the one I really want and want to keep for myself is in High Wycombe but the gearbox is howling and probably won't make the 580mile drive home its sitting as an idea just to rent a brian james tri axle and just set off down for it, spend a few days at my pals and head back with it, im not shy too throwing heavy loads on my RR but high sided is it worth the hassle or is it going to be one of them i should just pay a lorry to pick it up?
 
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