What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Engine pulled, prepping for full revision... Wish me luck :)
 
1988smithy said:
What an absolute cockwomble
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I was less than impressed. Really wanted to be angry when I went to get the keys, but they were hiding behind the receptionist, and I couldn't take it out on her, wasn't her fault I was angry.
Wazzajnr said:
Kwikfit Yeovil have slots on Tuesday 28th
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Thanks for finding that for me. My wife managed to get me booked into Townsend Garage (on the A303 if anyone needs their services) while I was at work, just passed with zero advisories. They're absolute hero's to me now.
 
Bix said:
I was less than impressed. Really wanted to be angry when I went to get the keys, but they were hiding behind the receptionist, and I couldn't take it out on her, wasn't her fault I was angry.

Thanks for finding that for me. My wife managed to get me booked into Townsend Garage (on the A303 if anyone needs their services) while I was at work, just passed with zero advisories. They're absolute hero's to me now.
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Me thinks a big box of choccies should be heading your good ladies way:mexicanwave::)
 
Bix said:
Either I am on crack, or I can't find the P38 on their website. The pump is a recon unit from 2017ish. I kinda expected it to last longer than this.
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Recon unit should be fine for at least 100k miles.

It is the M51 pump that ends in 994. 994 is the important thing. Once you find that it'll probably list P38A too.
 
doriz said:
Does RSW allow you to lower the suspension independently of the presets? I have the Nano. If I can’t get the suspension to lower the body to the correct height the tape measure approach isn’t an option in this case and the block approach is my only option
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Just use the rocker switch on the dash with the Nanocom. Easier with 2 people. One person sat in the car, the other person with the blocks. Set at max height, slip a set of blocks in, set to access, when car sits on blocks then snap a photo of the Nanocom readings and set back to high. Repeat for each setting. You might need to change the high setting at first to get it high enough to get the wading height blocks in. Once done, average the Nanocom readings across each axle for each height and then program those values back in as tbe target heights. Job done.
 
My cabin heater is rubbish, no fault codes but i think something has broked. Front blowers only blow on #1 one the auto setting and the car can't maintain a steady temp even on full manual, seems to either full hot or full cold with nothing in between

Anyone know where the cabin temp sensor is? Are there more than one?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Just use the rocker switch on the dash with the Nanocom. Easier with 2 people. One person sat in the car, the other person with the blocks. Set at max height, slip a set of blocks in, set to access, when car sits on blocks then snap a photo of the Nanocom readings and set back to high. Repeat for each setting. You might need to change the high setting at first to get it high enough to get the wading height blocks in. Once done, average the Nanocom readings across each axle for each height and then program those values back in as tbe target heights. Job done.
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Does appear to be the most sensible way forward. I appreciate Data’s offer, but the customs thing now is ridiculous. I’ve got a flat concrete pad waiting for the office build, so I’ll park it on that and do as suggested.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Just use the rocker switch on the dash with the Nanocom. Easier with 2 people. One person sat in the car, the other person with the blocks. Set at max height, slip a set of blocks in, set to access, when car sits on blocks then snap a photo of the Nanocom readings and set back to high. Repeat for each setting. You might need to change the high setting at first to get it high enough to get the wading height blocks in. Once done, average the Nanocom readings across each axle for each height and then program those values back in as tbe target heights. Job done.
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What a plava
 
Finally made use of my caravan socket on the range rover,
My new to me trailer has an electric winch which had been used via charging a battery and clipping it on when needed,
I had a brain wave and decided if I mounted the battery permanently on the trailer and got a 12s white plug socket I could use it to keep charge in the battery while I drive,
So thats exactly what i did while my RR is running it trickles 14v into the battery and when the keys off it stops the battery voltage back feeding into the RR

I know its all there and module controlled and quite simple and its been working on caravans for years and years but im chuffed with it,
 
doriz said:
Does appear to be the most sensible way forward. I appreciate Data’s offer, but the customs thing now is ridiculous. I’ve got a flat concrete pad waiting for the office build, so I’ll park it on that and do as suggested.
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Doesn't need to be completely flat if you're using blocks as it sits on the blocks.
 
Fitted 4 new relays in the fusebox, keeping the 2 believed good ones as spares in the glovebox, and replaced the upper tailgate struts. Instead of sighing and resting low enough to scalp you, it now rocks up to the stops briskly enough to bounce him on the bumpstops. Test run to the garden centre tomorrow.
 
Taken him to the garden centre, now waiting on recovery again.
Bit awkward and lumpy again first start but we'd had 2 deep frosted mornings so assumed it was that.
Fuel pressure is good unlike last time, so this is some sort of ignition issue. Often fires for a second or two but then dies at 500 to 1000rpm and won't catch again, sometimes won't fire at all. Doesn't respond to throttle when he does fire.
But when running on the way here was absolutely fine, smooth and happy, kicked down eagerly to get past bicyclists, etc.
Puzzled.com. you'd think if it was a sensor it would take him out or misfire when running, not just starting.
 
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