What did you do with your Range Rover today

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IMG_20210915_150924_767.jpg
 
You may/will struggle to get the hub off, I did. The recognised method is to wack the disc, that didn't work for me and I had to use a puller. I have my old disc and the puller if you need to borrow.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Took the dash out. Bit of a faff. Will split the matrix out tomorrow and see what is what, although I have already ordered a replacement.
Click to expand...

Well, I cannot see how you get this f*cker apart! I'm going to have to read RAVE and look for clues.

In other news the pipes are dry as a bone. So it looks likeit is the matrix that is stuffed, at least that's where it is leaking from if I could only get inside.

My o-ring pipes don't look like the v8. There's no screw, there's some sort of cover and I cannot see fo tthe life of my how they are fasted or accessible - even with all the vents removed. So a bit of research required there too. Maybe the '95 cars are different or someone took it apart in the past and modified it. Either way the pipes are solid and dry as a bone.

EDIT: looks like you have to cut a bracket. I was trying to avoid that. I don't like the idea so I'll have a think. Some good photos here: http://www.brazeauracing.com/rangerover/heater/index.html

http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/heater-core-replacement-audi/
 
Last edited:
Grrrrrr said:
Well, I cannot see how you get this f*cker apart! I'm going to have to read RAVE and look for clues.

In other news the pipes are dry as a bone. So it looks likeit is the matrix that is stuffed, at least that's where it is leaking from if I could only get inside.

My o-ring pipes don't look like the v8. There's no screw, there's some sort of cover and I cannot see fo tthe life of my how they are fasted or accessible - even with all the vents removed. So a bit of research required there too. Maybe the '95 cars are different or someone took it apart in the past and modified it. Either way the pipes are solid and dry as a bone.

EDIT: looks like you have to cut a bracket. I was trying to avoid that. I don't like the idea so I'll have a think. Some good photos here: http://www.brazeauracing.com/rangerover/heater/index.html
Click to expand...

I believe unless you want to cut the frame and lower the steering column its a dash out job:(
 
Well I've been to get petrol.. geez that's gone up again!! Obvious abs and tc lights on but the world didn't end.
I don't really have a choice unless i book the week off work with a sickie o_O
 
kermit_rr said:
How much of a big deal is it to get to this point? Does it just unbolt or do you need to split the upper and lower ball joints first? If it's the latter, i might farm the job out :eek: they need replacing anyways and don't fancy doing that one :eek:
Click to expand...
Balljoints stay in place. 4/5? Bolts at rear of hub to release the hub from the carrier, big nut on driveshaft, obviously caliper, disc off. I have the tools to get the nut off too that you can borrow.
Got the tool to do the upper and lower balljoints too.
Horrible job mind.
 
kermit_rr said:
Got the bastid out!! And found, as i suspected, it was ok.
The problem? Cracked reluctor ring :( is that a whole new hub i need? :'(
Click to expand...
The ring is part of the CV joint. You need the CV joint, a new boot and the fastening clips.
Undo the big not on the end of the shaft before you do anything. Then remove the hub and shaft assembly. Pull the shaft out of the hub, very easy.
To get the CV joint off the drive shaft, cut the boot off, then hold the shaft vertically in a vice with the CV joint down, hold the end of the CV joint straight and give the face of the CV joint a good whack, make take more than one attempt, the CV joint should come away. Keep the snap ring and don't lose the silver collar. To re-assemble, boot on first, put the silver collar on the drive shaft then fit the snap ring, use the silver collar to compress the snap ring, slide CV joint onto shaft which will push the collar back releasing the snap ring to lock the shaft. Check that the CV joint will not pull off.
Fill the CV joint with the special grease it comes with making sure it's worked well into the bearings. Refit shaft to hub and put the big not on finger tight. Refit hub and shaft assembly. Tighten the big nut using about 4ft of scaffold pole:eek: I don't know the torque but it needs to be bloody tight:D

Oops, that's for the front, looks like you are doing the rear, sorry.
 
Datatek said:
The ring is part of the CV joint. You need the CV joint, a new boot and the fastening clips.
Undo the big not on the end of the shaft before you do anything. Then remove the hub and shaft assembly. Pull the shaft out of the hub, very easy.
To get the CV joint off the drive shaft, cut the boot off, then hold the shaft vertically in a vice with the CV joint down, hold the end of the CV joint straight and give the face of the CV joint a good whack, make take more than one attempt, the CV joint should come away. Keep the snap ring and don't lose the silver collar. To re-assemble, boot on first, put the silver collar on the drive shaft then fit the snap ring, use the silver collar to compress the snap ring, slide CV joint onto shaft which will push the collar back releasing the snap ring to lock the shaft. Check that the CV joint will not pull off.
Fill the CV joint with the special grease it comes with making sure it's worked well into the bearings. Refit shaft to hub and put the big not on finger tight. Refit hub and shaft assembly. Tighten the big nut using about 4ft of scaffold pole:eek: I don't know the torque but it needs to be bloody tight:D

Oops, that's for the front, looks like you are doing the rear, sorry.
Click to expand...
I am indeed doing the front! And the ring is an interference fit which can be put on separately, found one that fits.. ebay special..
I think I'll have a go at it
Checked the hub nut and it's well rusted :( I've got a 3 foot breaker bar and some long tube
 
kermit_rr said:
I am indeed doing the front! And the ring is an interference fit which can be put on separately, found one that fits.. ebay special..
I think I'll have a go at it
Checked the hub nut and it's well rusted :( I've got a 3 foot breaker bar and some long tube
Click to expand...
The ring looked like part of the CV joint on mine and at €45 it was not worth messing about especially as the joints have done 140K miles.
 
Flossie said:
You may/will struggle to get the hub off, I did. The recognised method is to wack the disc, that didn't work for me and I had to use a puller. I have my old disc and the puller if you need to borrow.
Click to expand...
To add- I couldn't get my sensors out of either front hub which meant trying to remove the hub with the sensor ' locking' it in place, removal of the hub meant tearing the steel shroud at the same time as withdrawing the hub. You have the sensor out so hub removal will be easier. You can see the hole in the shroud that the sensor goes through.
IMG_20210901_172909_461.jpg
 
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