What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Nuffin with the P38, took the Transit for it's MOT, just an advisory on body corrosion so happy. Two weeks time it's the MR2, then the P38 in June, got to do the P38's brakes first.
 
Just confirms my opinion that the rover V8 is crap:rolleyes:

It's certainly a crap design / manufacture. Hopefully the new top hat short engine with Kent cam, new cylinder heads will be a lot more reliable.:eek:

At least i can enjoy the fabulous sound of my V8 again.
 
finished cleaning the block ready for the heads. heat wrapped the manifolds refitted them. cleaned the rocker covers out gonns respray them black i think maybe blue. im sure there was lots of other odds n sods to while i was messing about
 
That sounds like a car you could hoon around in, especially with a field handy ...
The other two will be away before long this one will be staying a while. 3.5 stiff block bored to 4.6. Stage 3 heads stiffend rods forged pistons. Wild cam. Plenum trumpets carbon fiberd. All intake and exhaust ports made bigger and flowed. Made up stainless manifolds and side exit exhaust. Megasquirt system. Jag xjs12 injectors high flow and pressure pump. Rovertec rockers. Lsd on 2600 axle and a straight cut shorter gearbox. Jaguar xk8-r callipers and master cylinder. Xjs discs and pads all around fully adjustable coilovers and strut tops. Braided lines everywhere. Bigger radiator and twin fans. Cooler stat. Auxiliary water pump for cooling after switched off. Yet i really really wouldnt have a v8 rangie
 
Having changed the half shaft oil seal last week and realized that was not the problem, I've changed the rear wheel bearing (well the hub assembly as it is). LR - £440, Britpart -150, I went for the 'Allmakes4x4 OEM' from Island - 175. Is this one really 'OEM'? can they say that if its not? Anyhoo... The hub nut was, as predicted, a bugger to get undone. Broke a half inch drive socket on it first, then got a 3/4 inch drive and bit of scaffold pipe onto it. :eek: Beware the ****part hub nut. I got one to find that the original was 1 1/4" AF (32mm I think) but the Britpart one to replace it with was 36mm and the socket won't go through the wheel centre to tighten it up. Had to put the old one back on. Hope it'll be ok, I dogged it in a different place. And the disk splash shields that Island have got at reasonable price just now are 'handed', so look out for that too.
All running smoothly again now tho'!:)
 
Having changed the half shaft oil seal last week and realized that was not the problem, I've changed the rear wheel bearing (well the hub assembly as it is). LR - £440, Britpart -150, I went for the 'Allmakes4x4 OEM' from Island - 175. Is this one really 'OEM'? can they say that if its not? Anyhoo... The hub nut was, as predicted, a bugger to get undone. Broke a half inch drive socket on it first, then got a 3/4 inch drive and bit of scaffold pipe onto it. :eek: Beware the ****part hub nut. I got one to find that the original was 1 1/4" AF (32mm I think) but the Britpart one to replace it with was 36mm and the socket won't go through the wheel centre to tighten it up. Had to put the old one back on. Hope it'll be ok, I dogged it in a different place. And the disk splash shields that Island have got at reasonable price just now are 'handed', so look out for that too.
All running smoothly again now tho'!:)

Bearings around £50,00 if you have access to a minimum 20 ton press.
 
OEM can get a little vague is seems.

It should mean the part is made by the same company as LR originally bought the part off to fit which is slightly different to OE which is the exact same part.

Quite how that applies to something like a hub assembly I'm not sure as most of the parts were made in house with the exemption of bearings/seals I'd have thought
 
Picked up my cylinder heads from Emmotts yesterday. Nice guy is Liam. Then back to Sheffield to drop them off with my mech. Managed to get the engine pretty much finished & ready for dropping in on monday.:D
 
Swapped fuel tank support bracket just in the nick of time. Swapped water pump to cure leak. New bumper brackets made and fitted along with replacement bumper.
 
OEM can get a little vague is seems.

It should mean the part is made by the same company as LR originally bought the part off to fit which is slightly different to OE which is the exact same part.

Quite how that applies to something like a hub assembly I'm not sure as most of the parts were made in house with the exemption of bearings/seals I'd have thought

If you get Timken or SKF bearings you can't go far wrong. But the Chinese ones made from hard cheese don't last a long time that's for sure. :D:D
 
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