What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Just had a downpour so I've checked and all OK, whether rain will get in when I'm doing 140mph down the bypass in my awesome powerful 2.5d is another thing altogether. The screen would probably feck off over the roof.
I had a screen come unstuck on a brand new Volvo years ago. I was running grandma home and she kept complaining it was cold in the car, I was roasting. Next day in daylight, I noticed the screen on the passenger side had come completely away from the A post.:eek:
 
One of the reasons i chose an l322 without climate seats, less to break/easier to fix with standard heating elements
So you'd rather strip the seat covers, once you've got the seat out, removed the trim & switch panel, then find out the foam rips when you peel the heat pads away, wait for new foam pads, refit then try & remove the wrinkles that were not there before?
Interesting.

Admittedly I have prior experience, the rear Peltier takes about 25 minutes to R&I, the lower one about 15 minutes - neither are explainable, you need to see 'how' then it makes sense.
 
Drove to work, heater on full, really need to get it sorted but dunno where to start when there's no error codes and the fact you have to take the car apart to get to things.
Sat typing this while in the car.. i know.. press the magic button to keep the heater going. Nope . Nothing.. nada
 
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Today I 'ave mostly been sorting a Fuel Burning Heater remote for my 07 Rangey Roverer.

I started by following this idea, but without the wifi thing, which is where the trouble started, because I wasn't using what he used. The wiring was the same idea though, and I bought a cheap (less than a tenner off fleabay) remote relay. So it's a positive lead from the vehicle wiring to the + on the circuit board, with a connection to the 'com' terminal, earth to the - on the board, and a trigger wire from the 'no' connection to the vehicle loom.
At first it would only work if I kept my finger on the button, not ideal as that would lead to a sore finger and probably drain the remote battery in no time.
Then I found out that they need programming. There’s a small button on the circuit board, with 3 options; momentary (standard option – hence having to keep your finger on the button), toggle and latch. I used the latch option, one button on the remote for on, one for off.
This system is ideal for use at close range, if you need to operate the pre-heater whilst sat in an office then you’ll need a gsm system, and good look figuring that out. I used this video to suss it, now I need some nice bad weather to try it out for real.
 
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