P38 guy
Member
- Posts
- 65
- Location
- Amman, Jordan
Piano black trim and the trims under the front left seat and the pillars and also yes I cleaned a bit
I het this occasionally when it's really hot outsideOn the way to the pub last night, my P38 did the old "jump to wade height" (just once), but caught it in time & pressed down on the height switch . It has certainly done it less since I sorted the left rear height sensor looseness. Definitely cannot be tracking between the white connector height switch wires because the connectors no longer exist !! Maybe I need to check the other sensors.
Doesn't seem to matter what the temp is. It's definitely reduced occurences after my sensor arm fix. Planning to do a Nanocom recording on next trip over a few miles & see what the sensor variations look like.I het this occasionally when it's really hot outside
Likely to be the driver pack IMO.On the way to the pub last night, my P38 did the old "jump to wade height" (just once), but caught it in time & pressed down on the height switch . It has certainly done it less since I sorted the left rear height sensor looseness. Definitely cannot be tracking between the white connector height switch wires because the connectors no longer exist !! Maybe I need to check the other sensors.
Could be, but the challenge is finding a good one. I have a couple in the garage that definitely have dry joints on 1 or 2 of the the input wires underneath the compound. The one in the car passed my bench test of operating the solenoids whilst wriggling the wires.Likely to be the driver pack IMO.
All the duff ones that I have had, it's been a faulty 63 volt 100uf electrolytic allowing spikes from the solenoids back to the ECU.Could be, but the challenge is finding a good one. I have a couple in the garage that definitely have dry joints on 1 or 2 of the the input wires underneath the compound. The one in the car passed my bench test of operating the solenoids whilst wriggling the wires.
I don't think they do much myself, they are so small they make little difference, you need more that the whole roof to get anything out of them to top a battery the size of a P38Apparently, sticking flexible solar panels to the bonnet is now a thing, with folks making 'kits'!!!
Sounds insane to me. Solar panels don't like heat, so let's stick it on the hottest part of the car with no air flow underneath
A 20 watt panel ( no load voltage 18-21 volts) via a charge controller keeps my P38 batteries fully charged winter or summer. The controller outputs 14.8 volts just like the car regulator and folds back as the state of charge nears full.I don't think they do much myself, they are so small they make little difference, you need more that the whole roof to get anything out of them to top a battery the size of a P38
Most are made in China and most commercial panels output 18/21 volts off load but there are some that are 5 volts or 12 volts which are not a lot of good for a car battery.Mine must have been chinesium rubbish then
Making itself useful today View attachment 324784
On sunny days I get a touch over 800ma on overcast days it can be as low as 30ma but overall it's enough to keep the P38 batteries in a good state of charge. To charge a flat battery will obviously take some time. I have just installed 3Kw of solar panels at my house, today it's dark and raining so the output is only 200 watts or thereabouts.The panel I bought was supposedly 20W but I'm wondering. Def 18-20V out of the panel & 14V from regulator, but did it charge the battery . . . No.
It's sitting in the garage at the moment, but when I get a chance will try it again off the car.
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