doriz
Well-Known Member
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- 17,312
Ffs, no dice on the blown bulb fault still present
if its a bulb fault, one of the S in SRS is a bit dim.. hard to noticeFfs, no dice on the blown bulb fault still present
I’ve swopped out the bulbs for new ones. Fault persists. Nano won’t talk to srs ECU. A post block dry and in good condition. Could be battery voltage, so might try a new battery. I’ll disconnect all the yellow sockets and clean up whilst the battery is off. The fault developed over time as srs light would come on for 10 mins every journey then go out developing into a perm issue. 2 months to MOT so need to get this sorted.if its a bulb fault, one of the S in SRS is a bit dim.. hard to notice
check the OBD pins and connectors for corrosion tooI’ve swopped out the bulbs for new ones. Fault persists. Nano won’t talk to srs ECU. A post block dry and in good condition. Could be battery voltage, so might try a new battery. I’ll disconnect all the yellow sockets and clean up whilst the battery is off. The fault developed over time as srs light would come on for 10 mins every journey then go out developing into a perm issue. 2 months to MOT so need to get this sorted.
thats if you delete/dont have seat cushion airbagsI think(?) Keith knows a work around for that I've read on here. Resister soldered in somewhere?
Rgr, it’s on the list to look at.check the OBD pins and connectors for corrosion too
assume you've checked the underseat connectors? theres a connector underneath the kick panel near your right knee which i've found as an issue too
It would be more interesting to know what the voltage is after it has stood overnight.Checked it after unloading shopping etc so about 5 mind or so.. 12.79v which sounds ok to me
Checked power to the headlight washer relay. Jumped the relay.. didn't get wet.. no spark even.. presume that means the pump is disconnected or a broken wire
To get to the washer bottle and the washer pumps on the l322, do i remove the plastic wheel arch, or is it a body off job?
I was expecting someone to say.. yep done that before.. need a 4 post lift and 6 weeks hard labour.. you can buy the part for £2.50
ThanksYou don't even need the whole spash gaurd off, little triangle shaped bit between bumper and splash gaurds you can get too the pumps few minutes to get all 3 pumps out the bottle
The brake reservoir is filled to the top line with the engine running. When you turn off and leave it, the level will rise way above max. The system cannot recognise air in the system.Today was UJ day. The black dust you see near the socket is what was left of the bearings from the end cap on the floor. Probably why it had a bit of knock about it.
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Absolutely hated the clips to keep the caps in. Never thought I'd see the day when I appreciated circlips. Topped off my brake juice too, flagged up yesterday on the way to work that it was low. I can only assume the place that sorted my ABS (which is currently broken again thanks to flood water) didn't know to charge the pump first, so although it was on "max", once ignition was on it quickly dropped below minimum. I was really hopeful that it would've fixed my ABS fault, but not to be. Unless it needs bleeding because air has got trapped inside? Does it even know how to recognise that?
Still stalls when at idle, especially during gear changes, although not as badly since I replaced all the spill off pipe with Gates. Has a strong smell of diesel about it though, so I assume I may have a leak somewhere that could be causing the stalling. Just can't find any signs of a leak other than the liberal coating of engine oil around the engine bay.
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