doriz
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Ffs, no dice on the blown bulb fault still present 
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
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if its a bulb fault, one of the S in SRS is a bit dim.. hard to noticeFfs, no dice on the blown bulb fault still present
doriz
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I’ve swopped out the bulbs for new ones. Fault persists. Nano won’t talk to srs ECU. A post block dry and in good condition. Could be battery voltage, so might try a new battery. I’ll disconnect all the yellow sockets and clean up whilst the battery is off. The fault developed over time as srs light would come on for 10 mins every journey then go out developing into a perm issue. 2 months to MOT so need to get this sorted.
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check the OBD pins and connectors for corrosion too
assume you've checked the underseat connectors? theres a connector underneath the kick panel near your right knee which i've found as an issue too
Flossie
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I think(?) Keith knows a work around for that I've read on here. Resister soldered in somewhere?
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thats if you delete/dont have seat cushion airbags
doriz
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Rgr, it’s on the list to look at.
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sorry for the long post!! >> TLDR - use ACEA C1 or ACEA C4 in 4.4TDV8 and not ACEA A5 as recommended by Halfords et al.
after arguing with man in automotive shop (because computer is never wrong) telling me I should use ACEA A5.. some more oil spec digging...
RR owners manual says ACEA-C1, which is now obsolete (but you can still buy it if you hunt). The owners manual also states *in an emergency* top up with WSS-M2C913-B to a max of 1 litre - *this is equivalent to A5*
A5 is the right viscosity but not as Low SAPS as C1 - (C1 was only used by Ford - 4.4tdv8 is a Ford engine), but maybe ok replacement for some other engines (without a DPF)
C4 is the same SAPS content and viscosity as C1 but maybe doesnt offer the same fuel economy (low friction) as C1
ACEA C1
Largely based on the ACEA A5/B5. Strict limitation of SAPS content. Low HTHS viscosity of >2.9 mPas.
Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and petrol engines requiring low friction, low viscosity, low SAPS oils with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 2.9 mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and maintain the vehicles fuel economy
ACEA A5/B5
Category for high-performance engine oils. For TDI engines with Fuel Economy Performance. In addition with lowered HTHS (2.9 to 3.5). Extended oil change intervals possible.
Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance petrol engines and car & light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines
ACEA C4
Same SAPS content as C3,(C2 and C1), HTHS viscosity as C1.
Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and petrol engines requiring low SAPS oil with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life
(above courtesy of Opie Oils Ltd)
ACEA A3 / B3 and ACEA C1 are deleted
To make room for the new categories, it has been found necessary to delete ACEA A3 / B3 and ACEA C1. ACEA A3 / B3 can easily be replaced by category A3 / B4 while ACEA C1 has no immediate replacement. Only Ford originally supported the ACEA C1, but the need has since become very limited, so it was natural to drop the category. Our recommendation is to use Q8 Formula R Long Life 5W-30 which complies with ACEA C4, where ACEA C1 is prescribed as these two categories have the same requirements for content of SAPS, and make purchases on fuel economy where C1 is better compared to C4.
(above courtesy of Q8 Oils Ltd)
after arguing with man in automotive shop (because computer is never wrong) telling me I should use ACEA A5.. some more oil spec digging...
RR owners manual says ACEA-C1, which is now obsolete (but you can still buy it if you hunt). The owners manual also states *in an emergency* top up with WSS-M2C913-B to a max of 1 litre - *this is equivalent to A5*
A5 is the right viscosity but not as Low SAPS as C1 - (C1 was only used by Ford - 4.4tdv8 is a Ford engine), but maybe ok replacement for some other engines (without a DPF)
C4 is the same SAPS content and viscosity as C1 but maybe doesnt offer the same fuel economy (low friction) as C1
ACEA C1
Largely based on the ACEA A5/B5. Strict limitation of SAPS content. Low HTHS viscosity of >2.9 mPas.
Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and petrol engines requiring low friction, low viscosity, low SAPS oils with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 2.9 mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and maintain the vehicles fuel economy
ACEA A5/B5
Category for high-performance engine oils. For TDI engines with Fuel Economy Performance. In addition with lowered HTHS (2.9 to 3.5). Extended oil change intervals possible.
Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance petrol engines and car & light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines
ACEA C4
Same SAPS content as C3,(C2 and C1), HTHS viscosity as C1.
Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and petrol engines requiring low SAPS oil with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life
(above courtesy of Opie Oils Ltd)
ACEA A3 / B3 and ACEA C1 are deleted
To make room for the new categories, it has been found necessary to delete ACEA A3 / B3 and ACEA C1. ACEA A3 / B3 can easily be replaced by category A3 / B4 while ACEA C1 has no immediate replacement. Only Ford originally supported the ACEA C1, but the need has since become very limited, so it was natural to drop the category. Our recommendation is to use Q8 Formula R Long Life 5W-30 which complies with ACEA C4, where ACEA C1 is prescribed as these two categories have the same requirements for content of SAPS, and make purchases on fuel economy where C1 is better compared to C4.
(above courtesy of Q8 Oils Ltd)
Last edited:
Datatek
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It would be more interesting to know what the voltage is after it has stood overnight.
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Who sucks? Seems to be the way forward
ColdShine Manual Vacuum Oil Pump 9L Vacuum Oil Pump https://amzn.eu/d/gg9kCZv
ColdShine Manual Vacuum Oil Pump 9L Vacuum Oil Pump https://amzn.eu/d/gg9kCZv
stuu
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Well heard a noise under breaking, trip to landrover and got a set of pads front and rear
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Checked power to the headlight washer relay. Jumped the relay.. didn't get wet.. no spark even.. presume that means the pump is disconnected or a broken wire
Today was UJ day. The black dust you see near the socket is what was left of the bearings from the end cap on the floor. Probably why it had a bit of knock about it.
Absolutely hated the clips to keep the caps in. Never thought I'd see the day when I appreciated circlips. Topped off my brake juice too, flagged up yesterday on the way to work that it was low. I can only assume the place that sorted my ABS (which is currently broken again thanks to flood water) didn't know to charge the pump first, so although it was on "max", once ignition was on it quickly dropped below minimum. I was really hopeful that it would've fixed my ABS fault, but not to be. Unless it needs bleeding because air has got trapped inside? Does it even know how to recognise that?
Still stalls when at idle, especially during gear changes, although not as badly since I replaced all the spill off pipe with Gates. Has a strong smell of diesel about it though, so I assume I may have a leak somewhere that could be causing the stalling. Just can't find any signs of a leak other than the liberal coating of engine oil around the engine bay.
Absolutely hated the clips to keep the caps in. Never thought I'd see the day when I appreciated circlips. Topped off my brake juice too, flagged up yesterday on the way to work that it was low. I can only assume the place that sorted my ABS (which is currently broken again thanks to flood water) didn't know to charge the pump first, so although it was on "max", once ignition was on it quickly dropped below minimum. I was really hopeful that it would've fixed my ABS fault, but not to be. Unless it needs bleeding because air has got trapped inside? Does it even know how to recognise that?
Still stalls when at idle, especially during gear changes, although not as badly since I replaced all the spill off pipe with Gates. Has a strong smell of diesel about it though, so I assume I may have a leak somewhere that could be causing the stalling. Just can't find any signs of a leak other than the liberal coating of engine oil around the engine bay.
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To get to the washer bottle and the washer pumps on the l322, do i remove the plastic wheel arch, or is it a body off job?
To get to the washer bottle and the washer pumps on the l322, do i remove the plastic wheel arch, or is it a body off job?
You really want me to look
. Oh I did
.J
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I was expecting someone to say.. yep done that before.. need a 4 post lift and 6 weeks hard labour.. you can buy the part for £2.50
Thanks
stuu
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You don't even need the whole spash gaurd off, little triangle shaped bit between bumper and splash gaurds you can get too the pumps few minutes to get all 3 pumps out the bottle
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Thanks
I've got a new pump ordered, assuming that's the problem, everything else checks out
Datatek
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The brake reservoir is filled to the top line with the engine running. When you turn off and leave it, the level will rise way above max. The system cannot recognise air in the system.
Apart from the leak off pipes, the other common leakage point is the top O ring on the FIP, had to swap it on both mine. If you are unlucky, the O ring on the next level down also leaks sometimes.
