Jon Dor
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,672
- Location
- Beverley, East Riding of Yorkshire
Thought I'd get one in first...haha!I'm definitely one of the "ugly" variety matey!
Thought I'd get one in first...haha!I'm definitely one of the "ugly" variety matey!
That's just the paper bag that I wear JohnWho's a pretty boy then
Alan will be proud of usThat's just the paper bag that I wear John
Wow, 43.000mls of gutter bashing. The kirbside suspension always goes first, when you say oem do you mean LR genuine or equivalent? Some parts marked as oem are nowhere near. Most genuine stuff will do 10-15yrs and some aftermarket oem won't do 2... The word oem on a label means bugger all nowadays. Companies to avoid are moog, bolk and anything from autodoc UK... Utter shïte.Got a creaking balljoint on the front passanger side actually getting fed up with this thing this year now.
An electronic issue
The a break down
and now this.
Okay im over reacting but it was all oem landrover supplied balljoints and both pairs of front arms and inner and outer track rods fitted at in june 2020 at 145k,
its only on 188k now
As so many functions have failed, could be the earth line or power to the outstation.Seems you're right. Tried the outstation, and nothing. I'll have to pull apart the loom this weekend. Boosheet.
Saaaaaay, hypothetically someone broke into her husbands tool chest to scrub off all the rust what would she use to regrease them all after they're clean and fully dry...?
Any light oil you can find will do, wipe them over with a rag and 3in1 or maybe duck oil or similar
You’ve done it now. She be back asking how to squeeze oil out of a duck next. Once she’s back from running round the park
Genuine L-R as in ordered through landrover themselves,Wow
Wow, 43.000mls of gutter bashing. The kirbside suspension always goes first, when you say oem do you mean LR genuine or equivalent? Some parts marked as oem are nowhere near. Most genuine stuff will do 10-15yrs and some aftermarket oem won't do 2... The word oem on a label means bugger all nowadays. Companies to avoid are moog, bolk and anything from autodoc UK... Utter shïte.
I had your pain yesterday Kermit. After fitting the new water pump and antifreeze, I'd say it took over an hour before it reached a state where I startrd to breathe easily again and everything circulated properly without releasing more air bubbles. He raised the expansion tank as high as the hoses allowed and also pressurised the system with a manual pump "thingy" a couple of times. He said trust me, it'll be fine...EVENTUALLY! He was correct. Hope you get yours sorted soon matey!Given I'm constantly removing air from the coolant i can only think the engine must be fooooked
Really hope so! But i feel I've let more air out than there is coolant in itI had your pain yesterday Kermit. After fitting the new water pump and antifreeze, I'd say it took over an hour before it reached a state where I startrd to breathe easily again and everything circulated properly without releasing more air bubbles. He raised the expansion tank as high as the hoses allowed and also pressurised the system with a manual pump "thingy" a couple of times. He said trust me, it'll be fine...EVENTUALLY! He was correct. Hope you get yours sorted soon matey!
Oh and it was missing again on start upReally hope so! But i feel I've let more air out than there is coolant in it
Take the overflow pipe off the radiator, fill the header tank then squeeze the top hose and plug the overflow with a finger when releasing the hose so it sucks coolant in and blows air out when you squeeze the hose. Keep doing that until coolant comes out of the overflow (it'll take a while and you'll need to top the header up a few times). Then put the pipe back on and carry on only this time plug the hole in the top of the header where the jet of coolant comes back into the header. Eventually, you'll no longer be able to hear bubbles in the system and at that point you know you've got the air out.Really hope so! But i feel I've let more air out than there is coolant in it
Yeh that's my trick.. but normally take the pipe off, blow it clear, then move to step 2Take the overflow pipe off the radiator, fill the header tank then squeeze the top hose and plug the overflow with a finger when releasing the hose so it sucks coolant in and blows air out when you squeeze the hose. Keep doing that until coolant comes out of the overflow (it'll take a while and you'll need to top the header up a few times). Then put the pipe back on and carry on only this time plug the hole in the top of the header where the jet of coolant comes back into the header. Eventually, you'll no longer be able to hear bubbles in the system and at that point you know you've got the air out.
I do it with the engine off.
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